18g or 20g Turbo

[Talon64]

Ok well right now my 18g 6SL2 has bad shaft play and will be sending back to force performance to get fixed. (Hoping it will be free on 3k miles on it!) Right now I just got a SBR Bastard 20g TD05H to put in the car now. Both turbos ported. My question is which turbo would be better for me. I just purchased dsmlink and I want to be around 20 psi or more if my motor will hold it. My profile is up to date. Stock 7 bolt with 40-50k (JDM motor). Anyone with information will help a lot. I want to push this 7 bolt to the max. If it goes it goes! Gives me more reason to build my 6 bolt I have sitting in the garage.

 

[dsm-onster]

So its almost pointless to send my turbo out than to forceperformance (even if its free)? So where would I be able to get this done? Will it be worth all this work? Once done I will have 18g td05 and 20g td06?

Let's get our buisiness cap on. . .

As I mentioned in the PM, Your turbos are already assembly balanced. Both your turbos ahve the same compressor cover (they both need a j-pipe correct?). So you can rebuild them separately from each other and not have to send them in to be re-assembly balanced.

But the best thing, if you have the time, is to have someone like Justin inspect and rebuild them, swap out the compressor wheels and cover. Have them both assembly rebalanced during the rebuild process. And then you'll have a td05h 18g and a td06sl 20g that looks like a 16g. Sell the td05h 18g. Make sure you take a pick of the compressor wheel measurements to prove it. This will make selling your used 18g turbo for more than a used 16g turbo MUCH easier. You will more than recover the costs involved. And you will be left with a better matched turbo that will flow more than both your current options.

 

[joyfil2001]

Let's get our buisiness cap on. . .

As I mentioned in the PM, Your turbos are already assembly balanced. Both your turbos ahve the same compressor cover (they both need a j-pipe correct?). So you can rebuild them separately from each other and not have to send them in to be re-assembly balanced.

But the best thing, if you have the time, is to have someone like Justin inspect and rebuild them, swap out the compressor wheels and cover. Have them both assembly rebalanced during the rebuild process. And then you'll have a td05h 18g and a td06sl 20g that looks like a 16g. Sell the td05h 18g. Make sure you take a pick of the compressor wheel measurements to prove it. This will make selling your used 18g turbo for more than a used 16g turbo MUCH easier. You will more than recover the costs involved. And you will be left with a better matched turbo that will flow more than both your current options.

What he said. Why deal with warranty if you don't have to. Your only issue will be downtime. However, I'm pretty sure Justin could take care of you pretty quickly.

 

[JusMX141]

If you end up swapping the wheels / shafts yourself without rebalancing, keep the compressor locknuts with the corresponding compressor wheel. Many times there is grinding correction done to the compressor nut that has to do with excessive vibration on the compressor side of the turbo- the nuts are ground to match the compressor wheel's correction, not the turbine shaft.

Is the TD05 compressor housing on the bastard 20G also machined to match the A/R of the TD06 compressor housing? I'm assuming that a TD05 compressor housing has a smaller A/R. -y/n?

I think the housings are completely different- there's not really any way for them to change the a/r as the relation of the turbine centerpoint cannot be moved in relation to the compressor inlet / outlet.

The compressor a/r of the TD05H housing is definitely smaller than the TD06 20G housing, although I'm not exactly sure of the specific a/r of either housing. I've seen too many different numbers listed to get a trustworthy calculation. Hell they stamp ".70 a/r" on the turbine housing of the knockoff 16G's, and they're not anywhere near being a .70 housing. The Chinese are cunning, but they aren't well with translation....what they printed was the numbering that Mitsu casts stating whether or not the housing is 6cm2 (060) or 7cm2 (070). To them, apparently that means it's the a/r ratio. Dumbasses.

 

[dsm-onster]

. "Dumbasses". . .

 

[boosted eagle]

Well run the 20g, but if your only wanting to push 20psi, I would go with the evo3 16g,cause the 18g performs best at 22-28psi,and the 20g would probably be around the same as the 18g! so run that 20g 7bolt setup to the ground!!!!!!!!! good luck!

 

[USER_22]

Hey! You 2 get your post count up another way and stop bringing back 4 month old post...

 

[JusMX141]

Well run the 20g, but if your only wanting to push 20psi, I would go with the evo3 16g,cause the 18g performs best at 22-28psi,and the 20g would probably be around the same as the 18g!

Not really.

That greatly hinges on the turbine wheel choice. A standard (unclipped) TD05H turbine will be maxed out around 25psi.

 

[nctsiawd]

Will the 18g SL2 spool up quicker than the 20g TDO5H? Which turbo would be better suited for the 1/8 mile, and pump gas only?

 

[anmGST]

What about this one, Supposed to be better than the E316G and 18G,Never hear it..
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 68HTA Turbocharger for DSM

 

[Pirrofab]

I was at fp's website not to long ago and didn't see this, I would trust it with an fp name on it, Just wish some results would be posted on actual hp and tq. I haven't heard of anyone running it.

 

[dsm-onster]

Looks like an hta 20g to me. 20g has a 68mm wheel.

Interestingly, Robert said that he'd put nothing bigger than an 18g wheel in the td05h compressor cover (16g/14b compressor cover) on the 18g debut a year ago. But now we have this .

If it has a td06/h/sl2 turbine wheel, then it would be the ultimate sleeper turbo.

 

[anmGST]

Yea I wish there was more info on this. My E3 just ate a rock and I swapped the compressor side with a 14B so I'm looking for new possiabilities..