16G Rebuild-Bent Shaft the Problem?

[stevecbr929]

Not sure what to do at this point but I know I'm going to pick up a nice used 14b on Friday for sure.

So I had several turbo's given to me (off classified on this site) which was very cool. T25 needed rebuild, 14b supossedly ok, and a big 16g with a broken shaft. Long story short, tried both the 14b & 16g, and neither one would spool. Both had lots of shaft play, so I ordered (yes, ebay) rebuild kit for the 16g.

I'm driving a 2g tsi talon. Less than 1000 miles on budget rebuild (new oem rings, and honed cyls), injen intake, full 3in downpipe (reading its gonna be an issue, I know), Apexi catback, just purchased (same guy who gave me turbos)ssac fmic.

I have the 16g installed on ported slow boy racing mani, and I ported the o2 housing & wg flap to hopefully avoid boost creep. Put all new gaskets (not ebay) on mani to turbo & o2 housing when I put everything together.

The rebuild went great & I followed every step of Justin's How To (thank you for article). The only issue: The wheel should slide on the shaft with no resistance - I'm pretty sure that's what he said & I had to spin the wheel onto the shaft with something over both ends so blades wouldn't cut me up.

I don't have a boost guage yet (I know, it's coming) so not sure where I'm at. I have it set up now running with the solenoid to the J pipe (I tapped & installed nipple), and then to the wg. I've tried just running from wg to jpipe but without any positive results. I haven't done a boost leak test yet, I'm waiting on a compressor that I'm borrowing from a friend, but I have checked & double checked all ic piping & couplers many times over and over again.

I just wasn't sure if the wheel not going onto shaft easily could be the reason my freshly rebuilt 16g isn't working. Driving it, I can hear it start to spool up, but then nothing - doesn't really pull at all.

I know without a boost gauge or a boost leak test its hard to diagnose anything but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions? Thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

I did a boost leak test without a boost gauge, do a boost leak test without it and you will know if you have any or not.

 

[4Lurker4]

Did you check (when you rebuilt it) that the flapper would close completely on the turbine housing with the wastegate? It could be open to the flow and thus not allowing it to work properly. Boost leak test would also be good in case you have a leak.

 

[stevecbr929]

I was thinking the boost guage would be helpful to see what kind of boost I was getting. I'm waiting on a air compressor to do the boost leak test. Yes, the wg flap closes all the way. I ported the housing so the flap opens more than 30* (I now know the wg arm doesn't allow it to open more than that). I do have another wg - actually two. One from the 14b another from my t25. I don't think the t25 will work but should I try the one from the 14b?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Not sure if it will fit.

 

[JusMX141]

If you had a bent shaft, there would most likely be smoke involved at one point. Also, if the shaft were bent or turbo were grossly out of balance you would hear what could be described as a "Supercharger-like" whine, much like a boost leak near the compressor cover.

Check the wastegate actuator- make sure it has the flapper 100% sealed against the housing.

 

[stevecbr929]

If you had a bent shaft, there would most likely be smoke involved at one point. Also, if the shaft were bent or turbo were grossly out of balance you would hear what could be described as a "Supercharger-like" whine, much like a boost leak near the compressor cover.

Check the wastegate actuator- make sure it has the flapper 100% sealed against the housing.

I'll check it out first thing in the morning for sure. He gave me two actuators (three including t25's). Would it make any difference changing them out while I'm in there anyway? Not too sure how to make sure they work, but neither one seemed bound up in any way just pulling on the arm before I installed. Thanks.

Ok, so I went and checked my wg flapper, and it was closing all the way. I swapped it with the other actuator I had but still no different.

Checked shaft play while I was in there, and it felt great as far as I could tell. Little to no shaft play at all, and it seems to spin just fine.

When I reassembled, the big o ring that's on the compressor side didn't get replaced. The one that came with the kit was way too big to fit so I went to local hardware store to buy one. Got it, but housing didn't want to seat all the way with the new o ring on, so I used the one that was in there. Does that o ring make enough of a difference to effect the performance like this?

I can hear it spool up, it just doesn't pull.