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16g Questions / Problems

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1997_GSX

10+ Year Contributor
714
6
Jul 29, 2008
Keyser, West Virginia
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Well here are a lit of my current mods LOL I tend to over-do everthing.

The car has 94k miles no rebuilds was a stock virgin car with no aftermarket parts when I bought it.

The 16g was used, it starts spooling around 3000 and it is 18psi by 4250!!! Something is messed up, Im thinking a pre turbine exhaust leak but my heat shields are installed and I have had no time to check for leaks yet.

I checked for boost leaks and came up with a tiny one around the injectors / intake manifold, the injectors have new viton seals from fic.

That is the reason I want a new turbo, like a 50 trim. Fast spooling and supports up to 400 whp, I want to run extremely low 12s in the quarter, I really want high elevins.

This car is my daily driver and only car so I really don't want something to extreme.




Mods:
Exhaust:
-Megan Racing 3" Downpipe
-Thermal R&D 3" Cat-back with 2.5" Section chopped and 3" flange and extension re-welded.
-No Cat

Fuel:
-Walbro 255HP
-Fuelab STM Kit Black on Black with CF Gauge
-650cc Injectors
-Premium Fuel Only

Engine:
-NGK 8mm Competition Sparkplug wire set
-NGK BPR7ES Spark Plugs
-3G Revised Lifters with larger Oil hole
-Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil / OEM Oil Filter
-Hard Ram Air Intake with Cone Filter

Turbo:
-HKS SSQV BOV
-MHI Big 16g Outlet Ported
-2.5" TiG welded mandrel bent aluminum piping, 4 Ply Couplers, T-bolt clamps.
-CX Racing 31"x12"x4" HUGE FMIC
-Custom Pushlock Oil Return Line
-18 PSI Daily
-Starts Spooling @ 3500 RPM
Full Boost @ 4250

Electronics / Gauges:
-Apex'i Super Air Flow Converter
-Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer
-Greddy Profec B Spec-2
-AEM UEGO Wideband
-Autometer Boost Gauge with Vacuum
-Autometer Water Temperature Gauge
-3 Gauge A-Pillar Pod
-Palm M100 / Tungsten T Datalogger
-Boston Acoustics S60 Components in the doors and rear.

Appearance / Exterior:
-Silver Enkei RS-7 Wheels
-Clear Corners
-OEM Headlamps
-5000k HIDs
-No Fogs
-No Fog covers / dummy cover
-Painted Brake Calipers
-Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors
-35% Tint
-Black Center Section

Drivetrain:
-SPEC Stage 3 6 Puck
-Dogboxracing Total Rebuild with new gears, intermediate shaft, and 4 Spyder Center Diff.
-ACT Lightened Flywheel
Redline MTL / Heavy Shock Proof.

Weight Reduction:
-Spare Tire / Jack and Tools Put in Garage
-17 Lb Wheels vs 25 Lb Stock
 

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a 16g will support 400 hp.

Are you using a MBC?
Do you have an External Wastegate?

Is your wastegate actuator working properly? (see pic for actuator)
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I am using a profect b spec ii, my wastegate works fine opens and closes with a air compressor.

The profec works properly. I had this turbo / exhaust manifold / o2 housing on another car with the same results. The fins are a little chipped but not to bad.
 
Hey guys I just went out and took the shield off and took the air intake off... Look, I checked the shaft play and there is a wee tiny bit, like you can barely feel off in and out.

Side to side there is a bout a mm of movement... I also got a pic of the fins

One of my exhaust manifold studs is snapped off and gone by the previous owner, I forgot all about that.
It is a pretty good leak but not too too bad.

I just bought FP Studs and Nuts.

Now would you rebuild this turbo or go ahead and get the fp evo 3 16g for 499? I think it is shot.

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The compressor cover on your turbo is stamped with a 42, the turbo I have is also stamped with a 42 but mine is a small 16g. Not that it matters much but I don't see full boost (19 psi, going off the factory tach) untill 3600 rpm. How's your motor? (I have you done compression and leak down tests lately?)
 
It's probably the wastegate that needs to be tightened up if there aren't any pre turbo exhaust leaks. The one broken stud shouldn't create a leak.
 
7"exhaust_tip;151778763 said:
I wonder what all that black carbon is from on the head and the heat shield next to the missing stud... :aha:

I meant not enough to affect spool up smart ass :)
 
dood that's pretty bad. Get a bolt in there ASAP. This car is going to be your daily driver - DO IT RIGHT. don't skip precious little things like a bolt or washer here and there. You said it yourself it's a leak but not enough to affect spool up?

crazy, Go buy a new gasket get some good bolts some thread locker etc etc. I have a 16g also, kinda laggy - just imagine a bigger turbo. Yea, you can make awesome horsepower but it will be just as laggy if not more.
 
Now would you rebuild this turbo or go ahead and get the fp evo 3 16g for 499? I think it is shot.
Definitely rebuild it. Spending $500 on a turbo that is damn near equal in size is not a feesable option in my opinion (you have a Big 16G, 49178-01420).

Yours is a perfect candidate for a rebuild- small amount of shaft play, no wheel damage. This turbo could perform as good as a new one for about 1/3 the price.
 
dood that's pretty bad. Get a bolt in there ASAP. This car is going to be your daily driver - DO IT RIGHT. don't skip precious little things like a bolt or washer here and there. You said it yourself it's a leak but not enough to affect spool up?

crazy, Go buy a new gasket get some good bolts some thread locker etc etc. I have a 16g also, kinda laggy - just imagine a bigger turbo. Yea, you can make awesome horsepower but it will be just as laggy if not more.

I am doing stuff right on my car, the previous owner's mech broke it I guess, I ordered the FP stud and Nut kit, it is here laying on my desk. It is going in this weekend.

never said it didn't affect spool up, I thought it did affect spoolup, 7inchpenor was talking to me about it on team-2g.com saying it hast to be an pre turbo exhaust leak or boost leak.
Definitely rebuild it. Spending $500 on a turbo that is damn near equal in size is not a feesable option in my opinion (you have a Big 16G, 49178-01420).

Yours is a perfect candidate for a rebuild- small amount of shaft play, no wheel damage. This turbo could perform as good as a new one for about 1/3 the price.

If you look at the third pic, there is a little chipping on the outer blades. Will they affect anything?

In a 4th gear pull it spools to 20 psi at 3800 rpm. when it hits 20 the whole front end lifts up :sneaky:!
W

Also would you rebuild it yourself or have a shop, I have hear all mitsu parts are pre balanced. I have the tools to do it my self, so my car will be back on the road the same day! :)
 
If you look at the third pic, there is a little chipping on the outer blades. Will they affect anything?
Some abrasion is normal- there's absolutely nothing wrong with that compressor wheel.

Also would you rebuild it yourself or have a shop, I have hear all mitsu parts are pre balanced. I have the tools to do it my self, so my car will be back on the road the same day! :)
You're about an hour and a half or two hours from me....drive it up to my shop this weekend and it will be rebuilt when you leave. ;)

Here's an example of a Small 16G I recently rebuilt:

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If that's not a great offer, i don't know what is.

However, make sure it needs rebuild before you go that route. You don't want to be posting "freshly rebuilt 16g, still laggy as hell" :)
 
If that's not a great offer, i don't know what is.

However, make sure it needs rebuild before you go that route. You don't want to be posting "freshly rebuilt 16g, still laggy as hell" :)
Obviously there will be some expense involved, but it won't be as costly as a new one for sure.

I'm banking on there being a wastegate malfunction...perhaps the actuator isn't fully holding the flapper against the wastegate hole.

I rebuilt an Evo III 16G for a local customer last weekend that had a similar problem that resulted in distorting the wastegate flapper into a reverse-dish shape that wouldn't allow it to seal against the housing. The hot exhaust gas that constantly blew around the flapper because the actuator arm wasn't holding it shut tightly enough literally distorted it so badly that it couldn't seal against the housing.

A DSM intake valve works perfectly as a replacement wastegate flapper, and it's a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a flapper from FP for $31.50. :shhh:
 
Some abrasion is normal- there's absolutely nothing wrong with that compressor wheel.


You're about an hour and a half or two hours from me....drive it up to my shop this weekend and it will be rebuilt when you leave. ;)

Here's an example of a Small 16G I recently rebuilt:

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If I took the turbo off the car and rode up with my dad how much would you charge to rebuild it? With and with out the flapper replacement?
 

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Well Ive been thinking I might as well upgrade. What can I support with:
- Stock internals / Stock Head gasket, Headbolts with 94k miles
- Walbro 255
- FIC 650cc Injectors
- FueLab STM.com Kit
- Apex'I SAFC
- FMIC / Hardpipes, 4ply couplers and T-bolt clamps
- Dogboxracing tranny equivalent to a Shep Stage 3
I would like to stay away from t3/t4, V-band unless it has the Mitsu O2 housing flange.
 
Well Ive been thinking I might as well upgrade. What can I support with:
- Stock internals / Stock Head gasket, Headbolts with 94k miles
- Walbro 255
- FIC 650cc Injectors
- FueLab STM.com Kit
- Apex'I SAFC
- FMIC / Hardpipes, 4ply couplers and T-bolt clamps
- Dogboxracing tranny equivalent to a Shep Stage 3
I would like to stay away from t3/t4, V-band unless it has the Mitsu O2 housing flange.

If you plan on going further then a 16g you might want to look into some better tuning management. ECULink if you plan to tune the shit out of it for every last horse power, or even a chip to help keep it under control and keep your AFC for fine tuning.
 
Well I have Decided what I am doing, I am just going to buy a brand new FP Evo 3 16g and new FP race manifold, new Ported O2 Housing that Dumps to the Atmosphere. I already got new studs.

So all should be fixed, and run like a monster.

Then I am going to get it street tuned or dyno tuned.

Anybody know if Slowboy has an AWD dyno?
 
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