Resolved 16G oil return line doesn't line up with oil pan

[JDT]

I'm having trouble getting the oil drain to fit a EVO 3 16G in my 2G. Initially I tried to use a 16G/14B oil line but it was about a 1/2" too short so I tried stretching the flex section and cracked it. So now I'm using the T25 line, I already elongated the holes to match the MHI CHRA but when I bolt it up it's a little to short to reach the pan. Not sure what to do..

The turbo is a genuine 16G and it's bolted to a stock 2G manifold so the spacing and everything is OEM. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

[gst-turbo]

I had this problem but I always put one bolt in on one side then put one on other then just tighten even.

 

[JDT]

You mean you put one bolt in the CHRA and one in the pan and let the bolts close the gap? My problem is that the bolts are too far to even reach.

I'm gonna try loosening the V band and rotating the CHRA a little to hopefully close the gap. I took the volute off to clean/port it and it's missing the dowel pin so I had to eyeball the alignment when I put it back together.

 

[jakk220]

I cut out the middle section and used rubber hose and clamps in place of it when I had my 16g. I got sick of not being able to get it to seal.

 

[Dsmkauai]

^^ did the same with my 16g

 

[spyderdrifter]

Get AN fittings and steel braid line for in-between. Save yourself some headaches.

 

[JDT]

I cut out the middle section and used rubber hose and clamps in place of it when I had my 16g. I got sick of not being able to get it to seal.

^^ did the same with my 16g

Looks like I'll be doing this, I rotated the turbo a little bit and it's closer but still not good enough.

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

I cut out the middle section and used rubber hose and clamps in place of it when I had my 16g. I got sick of not being able to get it to seal.

This^

I wouldn't recommend An lines as there will only be about 1" of hose as the fittings are so large that the alignment would have to be perfect for it to work right. But it all depends on your setup.

 

[jakk220]

This^

I wouldn't recommend An lines as there will only be about 1" of hose as the fittings are so large that the alignment would have to be perfect for it to work right. But it all depends on your setup.

I had this issue when I installed my Holset HX40. I bought the kit from RTMracing for like $120 thinking that it would just be a direct fit. Well it was not even close. To make it work I had to end up using one of the fittings I hacked for my 16g temporarily off the oil pan and had to cut the AN fittings up that RTM had in their kit. I could not even use the braided line and had to go to a rubber coolant line. I used almost nothing from their kit.

 

[JusMX141]

...now I'm using the T25 line, I already elongated the holes to match the MHI CHRA but when I bolt it up it's a little to short to reach the pan.

The turbo is a genuine 16G and it's bolted to a stock 2G manifold so the spacing and everything is OEM.

This makes no sense at all....the T25 bearing housing is slightly smaller so a T25 drain should be ever-so-slightly longer/taller than a 1G drain meaning even if there's a slight difference in the flange location on a 1G oil pan versus a 2G (which I don't believe there is) then it would line up regardless.

I've always used 2G drains on TD05H swaps and they've worked properly 100% of the time....the 2G drain is actually a superior part in my opinion.

 

[bling5tatus]

I cut my stock hard drain pipe in a way that retained the elbow on it. I then used a piece of silicone rubber hose between the two pieces with hose clamps as others above said they did. It works great, no leaks... daily driven for about 8 months so far since I've done that for my new turbo setup.

 

[JDT]

This makes no sense at all....the T25 bearing housing is slightly smaller so a T25 drain should be ever-so-slightly longer/taller than a 1G drain meaning even if there's a slight difference in the flange location on a 1G oil pan versus a 2G (which I don't believe there is) then it would line up regardless.

I was thinking that same thought while laying in a puddle of oil and coolant underneath my car staring at the drain wondering why it doesn't line up. I agree the 2G drain is superior, I didn't mind using it I actually prefer OEM fit and finish but it didn't work in my favor.

So I cut my cracked 1G line and put some 5/8" heater hose on it and now my drain is a perfect fit. Thanks a lot to the guys that commented this as an option.

When I was ordering all my hardware I spent the extra dime on OEM stuff including the drain, if I knew it wouldn't line up I would have just bought a -AN return kit. I figured OEM would be the way to go here, guess not.

 

[bling5tatus]

I will never use stainless braided AN lines on a turbo drain after dealing with the one on the dodge colt I bought. It's a big PITA to put on because of how short the line is and how stiff the stainless is. Totally unnecessary especially since the oil drain on your turbo sees nothing higher than crank case pressure which should be properly evacuated anyway. If you want fancy AN lines run them on your valve cover to a catch can.

 

[JusMX141]

When I was ordering all my hardware I spent the extra dime on OEM stuff including the drain, if I knew it wouldn't line up I would have just bought a -AN return kit. I figured OEM would be the way to go here, guess not.

I wish AN drains never existed. Their I.D. is significantly smaller than stock, they kink, they leak, the braided ones cut the sh!t out of your hands if they fray...nothing beats an OEM drain tube.

 

[JDT]

I wish AN drains never existed. Their I.D. is significantly smaller than stock, they kink, they leak, the braided ones cut the sh!t out of your hands if they fray...nothing beats an OEM drain tube.

I've seen that before, I'm not sure who posted it, it might have been you but it was a photo of how small the ID of a AN drain is compared to the stock unit. For the record I would have gotten the STM -10AN pushlock kit, it looks decent enough.

I do like that the 2g drain has a bigger ID but so far my 1g line with the heater hose is working just fine.

 

[bling5tatus]

I wish AN drains never existed. Their I.D. is significantly smaller than stock, they kink, they leak, the braided ones cut the sh!t out of your hands if they fray...nothing beats an OEM drain tube.

I'd say a cut stock one with rubber line and hose clamps is better than the stock one. It allows you more adjustment and isn't a PITA to install. I've wrestled with drain bolts too many times on hard lines and a/n lines before to want to do anything else. Mine doesn't leak and I'll install one similar in any future car I have to work on very often.