$1500 Engine budget

[Matty-D]

OK So here is the short story. I have a 95 TSi AWD with a bottom end bearing gone. I have not pulled the motor yet to see the condition of parts, but the car has 300,000kms on her (187,000 miles). I figure that even if I can get away with just bearings the motors life may be limited, and I do not plan on being very nice this car. It's my toy

I have $1500 Canadian to work with at the moment. In a week I am picking up a 6bolt 4G63T with only 100,000km (60k miles). The engine is from a 1990 TSi. The cost is $500 when I factor in my fuel for the 4 hour round trip. The motor looks VERY clean in pics (as it should with the low miles). I need a 6 bolt AWD Flywheel, so an Aluminum Fidanza Flywheel is in order. I'm up to about $750 I figure.


6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse (Needed Parts reference)
I am trying to put my money to smart use. With $750 left I need to buy the following parts for the swap and or preventative maintenance

1st gen. water pump - How difficult are these to change on the car? I do all my own work so If I can squeeze more time out of the stock pump I am inclined to leave it alone for now so I can put the money to "better" use for now.

2nd gen. oil pump - I have one, but with such high mileage I figure a new one is due. Is there a general consensus on the "LIMIT" of an OEM 2G oil pump?

2nd gen. hydraulic tensioner - I will be doing the timing belt and related parts also.

Extreme PSI seems to have a SWEET sale on ARP fastners. I figure I can do all (head studs, rod bolts, main bolts, crank pully) for $250 Can. This is one idea as the motor is out of the car.

I am very interested in raising the compression ratio of my 6 bolt motor. I assume the high mileage pistons from my 2 G motor would not be a wise choice? Yes I am aware the rods would need to be machined. Does anyone make an affordable piston with a 9:1 compression ratio? IS there an affordable piston with say 8.3 or 8.5:1 compression that could handle the power when I have my 16G maxed out and my car fully tuned? Can the stock 1g pistons handle this power long term? I am unsure which 16G I have. The last 2 or 3 numbers are machined off It is a true MHI. Then again maybe I should stick with the stock pistons for now, and put the money elsewhere...

$1500 is what I have available now (with some extra expendable cash in the bank still). I have about $500 cash each month that can be expendable. I am a college student, but I am not driving atm (no insurance or fuel costs). So $1500 is by no means my firm total.


IF anyone has any comments about a suggestions for parts, machining, etc. etc. I would love to hear any opinions or suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

Matty-D

I thought about it some more, and since the mileage on the motor is quite low I think I should leave the stock pistons for now (IE till I can afford to build a motor), and IF I order ARP hardware, just set the head studs aside for now. Can stock 6 bolt turbo pistons stand the test of time against a maxed out 16G?

 

[nuclearr]

I would recommend doing the water pump out of the car. Its much easier and you have to take off the tomming belt. So unless you know for sure the tomming belt was changed recently the I would count on doing that as well. I do not know if the 2g oil pump bolts up but I know the 2g oil filter hosing bolts on to the 6bolt.

You will also need to make a harness or buy one for a six bolt swap. Not sure if the motor comes with a crank angle sensor but you will need one of those as well.

I would take your $750 remaining and do maintenance.

EDIT: I see you are doing some of the stuff I was recommending you are on the right track. Not sure how I missed it I read the whole thing before I posted

 

[soulefood]

i just did a pretty much complete overhaul on an engine and i spent 1500 in just parts no labor. of course i did it myself but that didn't include about 450 in machine work to get the block bored honed align honed decked and hot tanked. of course you don't need to do all this but you should get your journal mic'd especially the one that spun the bearing. Talk to Joe at Slowboy racing. i talked to him and their prices beat the competition and hes a great guy to deal with on the phone!

 

[92_6bolt_1290]

if you were going to keep your original block instead of buying a whole different engine you could get the frankenstien setup from DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts! which can come with either the 6 or 7 bolt crank set to use the stronger 6 bolt rods and either the 2g 8.5:1 turbo pistons or the evo 8/9 pistons with 9:1 compresssion

 

[FLASH1970]

I am kind of in the same boat as you. I have a 6 bolt swap planned for my 99 GSX when the 7 bolt dies. I bought a used block with about 60K on it. I am going to use the 7 bolt head on the car now, 6 bolt rods, tri-metal bearings, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs. The OEM main bolts are good for about 600whp so no need to spend money getting ARP Mains and the align honing done. I'm not sure if I'll use a bolt oil pump or get the 7 bolt and have the oil passages machined out. My block needs to be bored .020 over according to the machinist. So, I'm going with forged pistons. When you ad up the cost to machine out the rods and the cost for Mitsu 2g pistons, forged pistons aren't that much more and they are worth it in my opinion. Which crank pulley are you going with? If your stock one is ok, I'd say use that.

 

[Matty-D]

nuclearr ~ As I was reading your reply I was thinking, wow, when I mentioned about the maintenance was I REALLY that unclear? ... The water pump runs off the belt? 'Nough said. I recently did a head gasket on on a '99 Cavaliar 2.4 (GM's old 2.4L may be the shittiest engine they ever made for durability - I think they used glass con-rods.) I did the HG, water pump, timing chain tensioner (which had plenty of room to expand as the belt stretched over time). Not fun. And what the *#$! is with that 5 piece head WTF

I need to do more reading still before I pick up that engine to make sure I am up to the task. I have been through 2 years of schooling for auto mechanics (Standard college program curriculum for the Canadian Red Seal program). I know a good deal of theory. I am very good with wiring, so I will likely re-wire (unless its a HUGE job) to save money. Plus I know my harness is in good shape - except for the spot I hit when I was carelessly grinding But its a simple repair. I'm just glad I noticed!

I plan to wire a direct power supply for the fuel pump also. Since I have a plethora of old Nissan relays and adequate wiring sitting on the shelf.


Soulefood ~ Thanks for the mention of slowboy racing. It's always good to know who is who for shops that support your car. I am cheap (though I try to spend money when I know I should). If I had a set if Mics and telescopic gauges I would tear apart the engine and fully inspect it myself. I'm not machinist, but I did rebuild 2 engines in school - bore and hone, line bore, inspect, etc. etc. I also got the opportunity to bore out and sleave a customers old 3 cyl ford tractor block. HUGE bore on that old pig ... It was a great experience since I likely wont have that chance again!

92_6bolt_1290 ~ What happened to the last 30 feet? OR is it a 92 engine in a DEcember 1990 car? Damn, you had to make my decision REALLY tough man. ... Thanks, I do appreciate the mention, since they have some very affordable options

FLASH1970 ~ Blocks needs a .020 bore. Your 7 bolt or 6 bolt engine needs to be bored? The 6 and 7 bolt oil pumps flow differently? IS the difference pressure / volume / both??? Hmmm I hear what you are saying - not much more for some good pistons. Are all DSM 4G63 crank pulleys the same? I would like to re-use a stock one for now, and later on pick up a fluidampr. Has anyone had experience using one on a 4G63?

I am thinking now that I want to leave the engine internals stock for now, as I do not have much money to play with at the moment. I also forgot to mention my 2G Exhaust manifold has AT LEAST 3 decent cracks in it. I am not sure if the 6 bolt engine comes with its manifold or not (It is from a TSi and the turbo is gone). Either way I want to build my own equal length SS turbo header. I just looked at the pictures of the engine again, no exh. mani. There is another chunk of cash gone, not to mention I want to find a used chop saw - I have one for wood, but its a PITA to chance the blade on that one. Also I believe my 16G could use a rebuild.

My Current stance, which may or may not change, is that I will just spend the money on maintenance and finishing the car (Body work, and I think the rear bearings need to be replaced - I haven't looked yet). I want to redo all the bushings and mounts, so I think this I should leave the engine alone for now (till I can have one built). If I get the bushings n stuff now I can start picking away at it when I feel like it.


Thank-you everyone for reading, and especially posting. More input is still GREATLY appreciated of course.

One thing I noticed about my DSM (first I have worked on) is that the car seems as if it was designed to be worked on. Even when space is tight it still seems pretty friendly. I am soooo thankful for that

 

[FLASH1970]

Any time you're buying a used stock shortblock with a decent amount of miles on it, it's just a good idea to tear it down and check everything. I'm building a 6 bolt to replace the 7 bolt when it dies. A 6 bolt block can use a 7 bolt oil pump, it just needs to be modified.

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

The same crank pulley is used for 1g and 2g.

Depending on your hp goals, you could use different setups using stock parts. The 1g rod/2g piston combo is good for 450-500hp. Forged pistons on 1g rods are good for 500-550. Maybe even more.