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$1500 budget enough for a good rebuild or should I just swap blocks?

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Rengar18

15+ Year Contributor
261
1
Jun 8, 2009
Lancaster, California
My motor has been blowing low compression since I bought it (120 across) caused by worn rings as per a leakdown and im looking into a rebuild or replacing my 7 bolt block with another (effects being a ton of oil on my valve cover , a bit of power loss ~15whp and cant build more then 7psi on blt, air leaks out block).

Has about 12k miles on it since it had a full rebuild in 07 (prev owner didnt break it in properly) Looking to make about 300whp out of it.

Honestly guys would I be able to get a quality rebuild capable to make 300whp reliably/comfortably for 1500 or should I just looking into swapping another stock 7 bolt in and making my goal with that. I have virtually no experience working with engine internals so most of the labor will be done by a shop/home mech. I figured though if I bought a block in good condition here I would be alright.

Also, if I decide to swap another block in what other companants should I look into replacing? At the moment I just have a timing belt kit with a BSE and to have my head checked and anything replaced there.

thanks guys
 
Do you know anything about the rebuild? Was it stock or was it more? You can do a rebuild for that budget. You will not be able to replace everything. If the pistons have been replaced and the are after makert (if they are in good shape) reuse them. You may only need to have it honed and ringed and check clearances.

Also are you sure the guy who had it rebuild did not put in lower compression pistions? Did you try the cap full of oil in the chamber? And see if the compression jumps?
 
Have you looked around for prices on machine shops? If its not to expensive just take your block to a machine shop have them hone the cylinders out, put some brand new rings in and inspect the bearings and all that to make sure you don't need to replace them ( I probably would) and just put the block back in. Of course while its out do the BSE and whatever else you want to do but Im pretty sure you won't spend 1500 doing this.

Im still trying to figure out what you mean by air leaking out of the block. Definetly take it to s shop they can't charge to much just to inspect everything.

And as far as a quality rebuild what would you plan for it? Meaning you want to just do a complete factory rebuild or do you have other plans in mind?
 
If all you are looking for is 300whp and want piece of mind, your $1500 budget is easily accomplished. If you are wishing to keep the stock rods/pistons in, all you really need to do is hone the cylinder walls (possible overbore depending on bad the walls are), and a new set of rings and you are good to go. This is assuming your rods/pistons are in good shape.

I just got a block back from the machine shop, and it cost us a total of $640 to get a fully assembled short block back. Here is a breakdown of what was done aswell as prices. Keep in mind this is Chicago area as well.

Disassemble block/rotating assembly $40
Hot tank block $50
Hot tank/measure/polish crank $50
Hone cylinder walls $100
Wash block, clean up pistons/rods, install new plugs/bearings/dowels $60
New rings $90
Assemble crank/rods/pistons $200

We also threw in a used set of eagle rods and Ross pistons ($450). So, this entire built shortblock came out to about $1100 total. Well under your budget. Or keep your stock rods/pistons and save even more.
 
As far as the recipets I have say, its a complete oem rebuild (cost him 4500 for labor/parts) and a cap of oil results in the compression jumping to 150 in each cylinder from 120.

What I mean btw is that ive fixed all the leaks soapy water can find in my engine bay. Ive sprayed everywhere. The only leak I can find/hear is coming right from the block. During the test if I listen into it from the oil cap I can hear whooshing and oil gurgling. I also hit full boost at around 4200 on my 14b. Assuming air must be leaking out the rings.

Ill take that list NOS and call around some shops and get some quotes. Thought it would be alot more then that, sounds good. How long did they have the block for to do all that work?
 
As far as the recipets I have say, its a complete oem rebuild (cost him 4500 for labor/parts) and a cap of oil results in the compression jumping to 150 in each cylinder from 120.

What I mean btw is that ive fixed all the leaks soapy water can find in my engine bay. Ive sprayed everywhere. The only leak I can find/hear is coming right from the block. During the test if I listen into it from the oil cap I can hear whooshing and oil gurgling. I also hit full boost at around 4200 on my 14b. Assuming air must be leaking out the rings.

Ill take that list NOS and call around some shops and get some quotes. Thought it would be alot more then that, sounds good. How long did they have the block for to do all that work?

$4500 to rebuild what??? For that kinda money, I could damn near have you into a 10 sec. car, including a fully built motor with forged internals, built head, etc. What exactly was done that cost $4500?

If your comp. is that low, I'd start suspecting bad rings. Even with 120 across the board, your turbo shouldn't spool up that late. Does the car feel like it's down on power? Very possible the timing could be off a tooth. That's enough to make it lose that much compression, especially if it's 120 exactly across every cylinder. There should be SOME variance from cylinder to cylinder. If they were within a few psi of each other, and still reading 120, I'd check your mechanical timing to make sure it was spot on.

A good machine shop should be able to turn a block around in less than a week. All depends on how busy they are. My situation was a lot different than most. I had the rods/pistons shipped right to the shop. Plus i left the state for over 3 months. So I can't give a good estimate as to how long it SHOULD take, but a week at most is plenty if the shop is good at what they do.
 
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