14b on 2nd gen

[tickets4days]

How hard is it to bolt a 14b to my 97 gst when my GReddy large front mount is made for my car. Would I maybe need a custom J-pipe? I could get one cheap and would just like to replace that weak @ss T-25. Any ideas?

 

[biglady112]

Its a bolt on. I think with the greddy front mount you can use a regular j-pipe with a longer coupler. That is if the intercooler pipe goes to the passenger side. If it goes the other way, there are some vendors that make them that go to the driver's side.

14b will work nice on your car.

Steve

 

[JessesTalon]

i think its a pretty consistent gain about 20 hp over stock... to maximize the benefits of it you will need UICP LICP 1g BOV or better BOV.

Also I would port out your wastegate flapper hole and possible upgrade to a bigger o2 housing.

I don't think its 100% bolt-on There is a kit you can buy from various vendors that explain what needs to be redone to make it fit perfectly.

 

[biglady112]

The turbo is a bolt on. Making it work isn't. In my experience porting turbos is just a waste of time. If you don't have a good boost controller and inspect the turbo good, then you will have issues. I don't let any of my friends port. Even on Evo III 16g's that run low boost. I make them use proven boost controllers.

o2 housing should be fine as well. Just bolt it on, turn up the boost and tune. Tuning is where the power is. Boost doesn't mean a whole lot if you can't get your car right.

I would hope he has a new BOV and intercooler pipe if he has the greddy front mount.

Steve

 

[tickets4days]

I am running a large GReddy FIC with all GReddy upper and lower piping, GReddy typeRS BOV, N1 downpipe and exhaust, GReddy Profec typeS electronic boost controller, SAFC-II, ARP head studs, walbero 255 fuel pump, etc.etc. I already have a TIAL 38mm wastegate and will install it on the new even length manifold W/external wastegate flange from slowboy racing and recirculate the WG dump into an aftermarket O2 housing with flange. It will be pretty sick when I'm done. Right now my car's in the machine shop and my T-25 has slight shaft play and I would rather replace it with a 14b until I get the
GT30R duel ball bearing turbo for a little extra push.

The piping does come off towards the passenger side. I just didn't know if I would have to cut my piping a bit because, I believe the 14b supposedly has a slight J shape coming off the turbo, correct me if I'm wrong, as where the T-25 comes straight down.

 

[biglady112]

1G j pipe(oem piece) is really short. RRE or slowboy's j pipe extend down further. Go for it I say. May have to be creative with the coupoler, but it isn't thta hard.

Steve

 

[evolvingGS-t]

It's easier than getting into your car. It's a direct bolt up set up.

 

[tickets4days]

yea, i guess i'll do it for now. i mean if worst comes to worst than i wont be any slower than i was before.

 

[punishercb]

Wait, let me get this straight, a 14b bolts right up to a 2g eclipse with no kits whatsoever? I thought that you had to install an adapter to use a 14b. I still have everything stock except fot a aftermarket intake. Would a 14b swap right in? Would somebody mind clarifying? I always thought 14b's were interchangeble for 2g's?

 

[HighPsi92GST]

you will need a j pipe of some sort, and a few lines for it to hook up correctly. you can either buy the install kit, or you can make your own by finding cheaper used parts.

also you could do a search, tons of info

 

[slow_talon]

are you venting your rs bov?? Oh and if i were you i'll buy an install kit for it.

 

[vertGST]

you will need to make the bolt holes on your oil return line to the turbo a little bigger to bolt up to a 14b. you can use your stock water feed and return lines but if i remember correctly you need to put them on backwards on the 14b and bend them a little bit. you will need a j pipe and it should bolt right up if you get a complete j pipe and not one off of a 1st gen. i am running a 14b on my 97 spyder and you will feel a night and day difference compared to the t-25. right now i am at 250 fwhp and 261 torque on the 14b with full exhaust, bov, stock intercooler piping and sidemount and stock fuel system except for the s-afc. runs like a champ and i plan on trying to get 300 fwhp out of this thing before upgrading turbo.
in the pic is the rre j-pipe installed on my 14b.

 

[punishercb]

Cool, thanks for the info guys. I'm sure I'll get an install kit when I do it. So does the turbo actually bolt right on to the stock manifold with the same bolts? Also, what exactly is a j-pipe?! Sorry about the dumb questions but I've never worked with turbos before and I'm hearing new words every day. I did do a little searching but it just kept giving me random sentences using the word j pipe.

Thanks everyone

 

[tickets4days]

Somehow I do manage to blow off atmosphereacally with the RS BOV, same with the TYPE-S BOV. I never bought a MAFT, DSMlink, nothing, it just does it without any problem. I wonder how much I would push once I get the 14B on? I've bought so many expensive parts, like my huge @ss GReddy FIC, just because it's so ignorantly big. Basically the only thing left that's stock is my turbo,. Maybe i'll just skip the trouble of the 14B and just buy the GT-30R, maybe even the GT-35R( yes, I know that turbo is ignorantly big as well but that's the point, plus I don't want to have to be pushing other turbos to their max to hit my desired 400+hp), do you guys think thats going too big for a FWD, and just because someone will tell me to go with a TDO6 20g because it can do it I will let you know I've already thought about that and its just too common? Im planning on running about 15psi on low boost to use in first and maybe half way to all the way through second to help reduce traction loss and then using the steering wheel remote switch to turn it over to high boost set at around 22psi-25psi for a massive third gear and up pull. The reason I'm going with the expensive GT-R duel ball bearing series turbos is to save on spool up time, combined with the new turbo header from slowboy to cut spool time even more.

Sorry this post is so long, I just got a lot of ideas runnig through my head right now, im soooo close to having my first project car FINISHED!!!!(performance wise anyway)

 

[truwarrior]

you will need to make the bolt holes on your oil return line to the turbo a little bigger to bolt up to a 14b. you can use your stock water feed and return lines but if i remember correctly you need to put them on backwards on the 14b and bend them a little bit. you will need a j pipe and it should bolt right up if you get a complete j pipe and not one off of a 1st gen. i am running a 14b on my 97 spyder and you will feel a night and day difference compared to the t-25. right now i am at 250 fwhp and 261 torque on the 14b with full exhaust, bov, stock intercooler piping and sidemount and stock fuel system except for the s-afc. runs like a champ and i plan on trying to get 300 fwhp out of this thing before upgrading turbo.
in the pic is the rre j-pipe installed on my 14b.

250 fwhp and 261 torque at what psi

 

[vertGST]

that was at 20 psii run it no higher than 17 on the street though and the car realy sees boost. well now it rarely sees the road.

 

[vertGST]

that was at 20 psii run it no higher than 17 on the street though and the car realy sees boost. well now it rarely sees the road.

and for the record it does not see the road because i have a daily now not becausr it is broken

 

[2GeNTSi]

Lol dammit vert, I was trying to do my 14b swap today and seeing those pics makes me more anxious. Anyways today was the first time ever touching the turbo on an any car. It was going smoothly and the last thing I had to do was remove the 3 bolts and one nut holding the turbo...got two bolts...moved on to the nut, fine...got to the last bolt, started to budge and then it slipped (rounded the head). I couldn't believe it because I sprayed them down about four times each waiting at least 30min in between...I even got a mallet and tapped on them to maybe loosen up some rust.

Ugh anyways tomorrow I'm going to go to Kragen or some other autoparts store to look for the bolt extractor thing (looks like a socket with lots of teeth in it). HOPEFULLY that works.

Oh yeah I got my kit from SBR, came with a j-pipe (with a vacuum nipple), two ic pipe couplers, four ss couplings, turbine housing to o2 housing gasket, 7cm manifold to turbine housing gasket, two crush washers, ss oil feed line (and fitting for oil filter location), and two oil return gaskets...going to reuse my water lines and oil return.

PS - what did you use to makes the holes bigger on the oil return vert? I tried a round file but it wasn't doing much. Oh yeah and the gasket on the oil pan is stuck, I try to pry it off but it's like paper and it just tears.

 

[vertGST]

i used a dremel with a butr like bit. worked pretty well. i would replace that stud in the turbo with a 4th turbo bolt. it helps later on when you are working on the car or need to change an exhaust manifold gasket it makes it so much easier to drop the turbo off the manifold.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Oh man I'm tired...ok I just finished installing the turbo but not smoothly as I thought it would go on after getting the turbo mounted. 1st the j-pipe didn't fit correctly, the bolt it came with was too long which kept it from going in straight because it would hit the pipe (now the threads are stripped and it's not sealed tightly).

I can't seem to use my dejontool intake pipe because it would hit the actuator. Stock will work but I have to plug the vacuum ports. Also I need some vacuum caps for the BCS and the fitting on the ic pipe (for some reason it's all the way near the inlet on the ic). I just used masking tape...I know won't work.

I didn't get a chance to test drive it yet but I HOPE everything goes fine and I connected the MBC correctly (haven't done it in a while). I connected the bottom nipple to a tee at the bov and the horizontal nipple to the actuator (assuming your holding it straight up). I did horever start it and at first it idled like crap and then I plugged those vacuum ports and it helped quite a bit. I checked for leaks but I couldn't find any, it smoked a lot from the manifold but I assumed it was just the liquid wrench. I let it run until it was warmed up, by that time it idled perfect but in between there were a few times where it wanted to stall (maybe because new o2?).

Let just hope it will drive instead of just idle...I'll keep off the boost for now.