turboglenn
15+ Year Contributor
- 6,375
- 111
- Nov 5, 2007
-
RIpley,
West_Virginia
Well, as i often speak about i'm a broke ass , fortunately for me I've got to do quite a few 3" SS down pipes this summer which has blessed me with many little scraps of 3" SS that had various angles cut on to one or both ends. as well as a bunch of spare flanges and even a SS o2 bung
Several days back in another episode of extreme boredome and the need to play with the heli-arc, I started piecing together the first bend of a down pipe starting with my imagination and a good idea of the size and shape it needed to be to bolt up to the flat plate of a ford 5 bolt T3 flange.
To help keep this both budget and quality every weld was backed up with solar-flux-b to keep oxygen out of the back sides of the molten SS beads.. for being all scrap this is gonna be a really quality piece that should last a long time, i'm stoked to finally have a 3" SS one to help make the underhood that much nicer (old heated, and rusted mild 2.5 looks crappy IMO )
Then as pieces became more scarce or were damaged on the sidewall, as well as having the need to be able to incorporate it into my current thermal R&D cat back (which still needs its 2.5 bottle nect removed) I started gathering matching flanges and putting them in places that i knew they would either clear and fix a bad spot in the pipe, or where i knew it would make piecing the system together 100% free stay the #1 priority of the build The first flange from the turbo actually ends up sitting right in front of the oil pan with the flex being under it and the O2 bung positioned directly behind the engine in that nice big gapped area the 2G FWD's have (hide the wires grasshopper)
The flange on the back was used to fix a bad spot in the piece of pipe on the flex that contained the SS o2 bung and although nothing will bolt into the 3 holes on it, the customer who left it here said I could come get the other half of the SS V-band flange as well as the clamp (which will connect this to the test pipe and if ever need be a high flow cat) I only need the one o2 bung because my closed loop system is operating off the 5volt signal from the wideband.
If this keeps turning out as nice i may make a jig and duplicate it using some real bends for those who are also running the T-netics cast T3 manifold and would like a 3" DP (sorry didn't try and mention selling anything, i'm just so proud of this i wanna make another that's not from scrap )
Well, here ya go... finally after 13.5 years the old gs-t might step up in the world from an old rusty 2.5" mild steel and rusted ass down pipe
. I've been wondering lately that with me being now in the 500HP mark and surpassing it if this would also help me out with either power or spool at all. The sound right now is raspy at one point and i'm hoping that goes away with the mild steel 2.5" pieces (or i'm gonna have to make a 3" aluminum cat back and sell the thermal )
let me know what ya think
Anyone who's ever put a 3" down pipe onto a ford 5 bolt T3 flange will know how much of a pain in the ass it is because of all the bolts that hold the plate/o2 housing to the turbine housing. THat's why i'm thinking about taking some steel and capping the internal wastegate hole and instead of using the traditinal flat plate I may try and weld a 2.5" V-band onto the turbine housing, and a 3" v-band onto the down pipe and then machine them to work together (the ford 5 bolt outlet is usually only 2.5 inch but 'im not able to recal the current one since it's machined for a P-trim turbine wheel
Several days back in another episode of extreme boredome and the need to play with the heli-arc, I started piecing together the first bend of a down pipe starting with my imagination and a good idea of the size and shape it needed to be to bolt up to the flat plate of a ford 5 bolt T3 flange.
To help keep this both budget and quality every weld was backed up with solar-flux-b to keep oxygen out of the back sides of the molten SS beads.. for being all scrap this is gonna be a really quality piece that should last a long time, i'm stoked to finally have a 3" SS one to help make the underhood that much nicer (old heated, and rusted mild 2.5 looks crappy IMO )
Then as pieces became more scarce or were damaged on the sidewall, as well as having the need to be able to incorporate it into my current thermal R&D cat back (which still needs its 2.5 bottle nect removed) I started gathering matching flanges and putting them in places that i knew they would either clear and fix a bad spot in the pipe, or where i knew it would make piecing the system together 100% free stay the #1 priority of the build The first flange from the turbo actually ends up sitting right in front of the oil pan with the flex being under it and the O2 bung positioned directly behind the engine in that nice big gapped area the 2G FWD's have (hide the wires grasshopper)
The flange on the back was used to fix a bad spot in the piece of pipe on the flex that contained the SS o2 bung and although nothing will bolt into the 3 holes on it, the customer who left it here said I could come get the other half of the SS V-band flange as well as the clamp (which will connect this to the test pipe and if ever need be a high flow cat) I only need the one o2 bung because my closed loop system is operating off the 5volt signal from the wideband.
If this keeps turning out as nice i may make a jig and duplicate it using some real bends for those who are also running the T-netics cast T3 manifold and would like a 3" DP (sorry didn't try and mention selling anything, i'm just so proud of this i wanna make another that's not from scrap )
Well, here ya go... finally after 13.5 years the old gs-t might step up in the world from an old rusty 2.5" mild steel and rusted ass down pipe
. I've been wondering lately that with me being now in the 500HP mark and surpassing it if this would also help me out with either power or spool at all. The sound right now is raspy at one point and i'm hoping that goes away with the mild steel 2.5" pieces (or i'm gonna have to make a 3" aluminum cat back and sell the thermal )
let me know what ya think
Anyone who's ever put a 3" down pipe onto a ford 5 bolt T3 flange will know how much of a pain in the ass it is because of all the bolts that hold the plate/o2 housing to the turbine housing. THat's why i'm thinking about taking some steel and capping the internal wastegate hole and instead of using the traditinal flat plate I may try and weld a 2.5" V-band onto the turbine housing, and a 3" v-band onto the down pipe and then machine them to work together (the ford 5 bolt outlet is usually only 2.5 inch but 'im not able to recal the current one since it's machined for a P-trim turbine wheel
Attachments
Last edited: