miliman13 said:

With zero experience in this, just looking at the images it appears the length of when taper starts and angle of taper are different.

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Yes, I pointed that out in my post above. It doesn’t sound like that difference has been an issue for anyone else who are running these. That’s why I don’t understand why it will not go in all the way.

Do I have to hit the axle in with a hammer? I’d hate to damage the diff that’s why I haven’t done that. Typically, a push gets it all the way in.

Will it go in without the snap ring? That seems to be about where mine was hanging up before i used some grease to try and hold the snap ring centered.

GJP396 said:

Will it go in without the snap ring? That seems to be about where mine was hanging up before i used some grease to try and hold the snap ring centered.

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Good idea, I will try it without the snap ring to see if it will go all the way in.

So this worked? I literally just bought this axle a couple months ago and it's working just fine in my car.

Yeah I really want some concrete reinforcement maybe more images because I thought this was a done deal buy 3x axels make 2x out of them.

diambo4life said:

So this worked? I literally just bought this axle a couple months ago and it's working just fine in my car.

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I plan to work on it this weekend guys. I will try it without the snap ring and move to the grease trick from there.

@GJP396 & @diambo4life - did your axles go into the diff with a simple push by hand or did you hit it in with a dead blow hammer?

VBR_DSM said:

I plan to work on it this weekend guys. I will try it without the snap ring and move to the grease trick from there.

@GJP396 & @diambo4life - did your axles go into the diff with a simple push by hand or did you hit it in with a dead blow hammer?

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Axle should not just go in with a push. Needs a really firm hit to seat it in. That's how mine went in. Sometimes you may need to turn it a small turn at a time and repeat. I always use the technique of using a little grease on the circlip to kinda center it into the groove before sticking that end in.

Good news guys, the RR cup went all the way into the diff without the snap ring. As suggested, I then applied a small amount of grease to the snap ring to center it in the groove, but it was still sliding down a bit. So I clocked the open end of the snap ring to the 6 o’clock position of the shaft as it went into the diff. With a couple of blows of a dead blow hammer, the axle went right into place. I followed the same procedure on the LR axle with the same results. See pictures below.

Thanks for the help! We should give @daughters-car an award for figuring this out and sharing with the DSM community. This was a life saver!

By the way, if your axles are stuck to your rear hubs, you can remove the axle and wheel/hub assembly all as one piece through the hub opening of the knuckles. You just have to remove the inner cup and both boots. Not sure if this works with the front axles.

Awesome to hear everything went together. Also nice to be able to help out on here, I'm pretty sure we would never have finished our car without all the information here......

Let’s us know ; once your running if you have any leakage from those small gaps .

VBR_DSM said:

In need of some guidance. Both of my rear cv axles are rust welded to the hubs on my 95 talon AWD manual with the LSD. I ordered the replacement axles mentioned in this post. However, the new RR cv axle (MI-8196) will not go entirely into the diff. It feels like it goes in up to the point where you’d usually give it a push to fully get it into the diff, but that’s where I’m stuck. I push and push but the axle will not go any further.
Has anyone experienced the same issue? Any thoughts on how to get it all the way in? The pictures below show the comparison between the old and the new cups. The only difference I see is the taper in the shaft as the small diameter splines expand to the larger diameter splines. Everything in this post indicates that this axle should work so I’m lost. Any guidance is appreciated!

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Did you resolve this? im having a similar problem. I can get the passenger side axle to go in all the way but the drivers side goes in like 95% of the way and wont go in any more. It also has some play in it like i can jiggle it a little bit. When i spin the whole thing they both spin and its doing the lsd thing but idk it just doesnt feel right, feels like too much play out/in to me

lham24 said:

Did you resolve this? im having a similar problem. I can get the passenger side axle to go in all the way but the drivers side goes in like 95% of the way and wont go in any more. It also has some play in it like i can jiggle it a little bit. When i spin the whole thing they both spin and its doing the lsd thing but idk it just doesnt feel right, feels like too much play out/in to me

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Yes, see my last post above (#33). Did you swap the cups for the left rear axle? If so, try hitting it into the diff with a dead blow hammer. That’s what did it for me.

I think there will be play no matter what if the axle is not fully engaged in the diff. Maybe provide pictures to see if we can help figure out what’s going on.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/new-2g-rear-lsd-cv-axle-option.514461/post-153971047