The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Looking for close-up pictures of the PCB underneath the knock sensor

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

sakroda

Proven Member
229
36
May 3, 2016
İstanbul, Europe
Does anyone have any close-up photos of the components underneath the knock sensor board on a 1990 EPROM ECU? I’m specifically looking for detailed photos of the components and traces on the PCB in that area. If you have anything like that in your archives, I’d really appreciate it if you could share it.
 
Thank you, Steve. You know my story. Before the customs restrictions in Turkey, I used to order American ECUs. Unfortunately, several American sellers sent me defective ones, probably thinking that there was nothing I could do from Turkey if they scammed me.

I bought three of them. The pictures looked very good, and I had already shared them with you, but the back side of the boards was blown, burnt, or damaged with holes. Anyway, I eventually managed to get my hands on a 1991 Talon ECU (E931 EPROM ECU) that had been removed from one of the very few cars in Turkey. I immediately socketed the ECU.

Later, I ordered ECMLink, but for almost a year I couldn't figure out why my car wouldn't rev past 3,000 RPM. It turned out that there was some kind of fault somewhere in the ECU. After I modified the car, everything actually got worse, so I immediately returned it to the original setup, and my car regained its old power.

As you can imagine, things haven't really gone my way. To be honest, I sometimes regret not buying a LINK ECU instead.

My main question is about the Elantra and Sonata ECUs I found in Turkey. I had no problems converting them into Talon ECUs. I have done two conversions. I had a high-RPM problem with one of them, but I never had any issues with the knock circuit. The other one was very similar to the 1990 ECU, and I checked and replaced all the resistors and capacitors accordingly.

However, with this ECU, I am getting Knock Sensor Error 31 as well. That's why I wanted to see the underside of the knock board from a 1990 ECU.

Normally, I populated the electronic components according to the 1990 EPROM ECU configuration. I hope I have been able to explain my situation clearly.
mitsubishi is programmed the MH6111 with different combination. knock sensor (90's) circuit is communicating with pin 7 and MH6111 pin 64.
Before & after
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
without eprom and 90’s ecu is communicate with mh6111 for knock error but 90 and 91 eprom ecus are communicate with M60011-0131J pin of 28 and as you seen my M60011-0131J is exploded i think i found the issue i saw 55 degree heat by thermal camera. maybe it s normal heat range for this IC but i will order new one i hope it works.. because this ecu uses 128K and it could work out ecmlink but other ecu works with 512K it does not work with ecmlink. I guess ecmlink works only 128 or 256.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
Bubbled and cracked the package. That port expander is dead.
i replaced with new one it s same:( knock board is broken? how to test it i don t know

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
i replaced with new one it s same:( knock board is broken? how to test it i don t know
I don't know either. I would double check your soldering of the port expander. It doesn't look like pin 44 is soldered.
 
Hello again. I only had one ECU left from my late father’s old car. It had never been used, except that I had installed it once, and IC105 burned out. I had mentioned this to you before in connection with some other issues.

Through the tests I carried out by comparing and measuring the ECUs, I realized that the two ECUs had a very similar structure, almost as if they were twins. Everything was the same, from the processors used to the part numbers of the integrated circuits. In some places there were resistors that had to be removed, while in others the resistor values were different and had to be replaced with the values used on the Talon ECU.

After a long process of swapping and modifying components, I could not get the 512K EPROM to work. However, thanks to @Jane Hacker , who has an excellent technical mind, we managed to get the Elantra ECU working by using the idea of copying the MH6111 four times consecutively.

But when I installed ECMLink, the ECU would report an error because ECMLink did not work with the 512K version. In other words, the 64KB version was not suitable.

So I removed an MH6111 specifically from one of my old donor Talon boards, from the 1990 version, and soldered it onto the 512K-version Elantra ECU. As a result, the 128K version—the one I wanted—finally worked. I tested it today. The only issue at the moment is that the idle gets stuck around 1,750 RPM, so I am considering replacing the three capacitors.

That is basically the situation. I just wanted to give you an update. However, there is still no progress regarding the ECU that continues to give me the knock sensor error.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 1g Pop-up light button
    Looking for a 1ga pop up light button / switch
    • steelcurtaindsm
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted Fp header
    Good afternoon, everyone! I’m looking for an FP exhaust manifold/header for my 2G GSX. If anyone...
    • Bebo____pr25
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted Anyone selling Plymouth laser wheels can bring to the shootout?
    I'm looking to purchase a full set of Plymouth laser wheels if someone can bring to the shootout I
    • Syclone#334
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale DeatschWerks fuel pump
    DeatschWerks DW200 fuel pump. Probably has less than 1000 miles on it. Was keeping it as a...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Grey A Pillar Plastic Set
    2G Grey A Pillar Plastic Set $50 + shipping & paypal fees* all tabs and clips are on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top