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2G No start after engine pull

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OwenRonn

Probationary Member
21
10
Mar 25, 2026
gulf shores, Alabama
I just got done putting the engine back into the car after replacing the clutch, Flywheel, motor mounts, and timing belt/ tensioners. The car will turn over and fire but it fires inconsistently and backfires. I think it could be the timing being slightly off but my not sure how that could be the case when we checked to make sure that the marks were lined up. I am looking for any ideas as to what could be causing the no start?
 
We just fixed a leak at the fuel filter and it is acting like it wants to start but it still wont. The fuel pressure gauge showed it getting up to 40psi, we are going to check the fuel system over agian.
 
We verified the timing marks on the crank and balance shaft twice with the engine at RDC and made six rotations. But maybe we made a mistake somewhere. We had never done timing on one of these cars before. We unplugged everything from the wiring harness, but didn't remove the CAS sensor itself.

Here is a ECMLink log when cranking.
 

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We verified the timing marks on the crank and balance shaft twice with the engine at RDC and made six rotations.
I hope you mean crank, camshafts, and front and rear balance shafts at TDC.
Also check these:
 
I just got done putting the engine back into the car after replacing the clutch, Flywheel, motor mounts, and timing belt/ tensioners. The car will turn over and fire but it fires inconsistently and backfires. I think it could be the timing being slightly off but my not sure how that could be the case when we checked to make sure that the marks were lined up. I am looking for any ideas as to what could be causing the no start?
Update: had to move the car from where I was working on it so I wasn't able to mess with it anymore I took it to a local shop for diag, and luckily one of the mechanics had a lot of experience with dsms it ended up being the timing so I'm guessing what I did wrong was line the cam gears up before the oil and crank sprockets.

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I've seen timing marks off a lot when all the slack is left on the wrong side of the timing belt. You should only have minimal slack on the tensioner side before pulling the pin out. (Almost no slack at all). All techs will also rotate the engine twice to see if everything is line up after the change. Sometimes when the belt is super tight fit I turn the engine twice without pulling the pin like EJs and v6 hondas
 
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