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420A Need help car sputtering after engine swap

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codeshark

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Nov 7, 2022
Wilkesboro, North Carolina
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I have done a motor swap from a 1999 to a 1997 eclipse 2.0 and the heater hose messed up, started leaking antifreeze and over heated but not bad an not for long before I pulled off.

I got the hose fixed but the car is still sputtering and last time I took the car out it had like 2 or 3 loud pops under it then it started sputtering and died in the road. Got it started back but kept sputtering until I turned it off.

Note when I turn the A/C on after a little bit it also made the car turn off and the oil light come on.
 
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A guess based on the information could be one tooth off on mechanical timing. It will run but poorly.

See if you can get that video reposted and check your timing marks if that sounds like the issue.
 

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BLACK'98DSM said:
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A guess based on the information could be one tooth off on mechanical timing. It will run but poorly.

See if you can get that video reposted and check your timing marks if that sounds like the issue.
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I've came down to it that it's the purge valve but I can't seem to find it on the 420a
 
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Why do you assume it's the valve? It's definitely not the valve itself. Maybe a vacuum leak in the system though. It's an easy check. Just remove the vacuum line and cap off the fitting. I circled it for you.

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That's the codes I get

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Still getting code P0403 and car runs like shit. It's like it don't get enough gas to go but when you put it to the floor it will go other then that you sit there an spudder. I have removed the EGR and used block off plates My EGR is still hooked into the solenoid's circuit but my solenoid may or may not be bad would that make a difference?
 
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With an EGR block off plate it will only run bad once randomly when the ECU triggers the EGR valve and the MDP sensor shows the EGR didn’t respond. It’s usually only a split second, but no the car won’t run differently with the EGR blocked off if you did it right and didn’t leave any vacuum lines uncapped.
 
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thats the 2 codes i get the other 2 was just o2 sensors

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o2 sensor codes

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Any clue why the car don't wanna go. If I put gas to the floor it will go but if I drive normal then it will pop an crack but not wanna go as it should. I have removed the evap system and blocked off the lines that needed blocked. only thing I can think of is I need to seal the egr holes off around the blocker so no air can get out.

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steve said:
Were you able to fix any of the prior issues or
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I did fix the exhaust it broke off right under the manifold i got another pipe welded back in its place but when it broke off the upstream o2 sensor went with it and
it no longer has the hole in the pipe for a new o2 sensor and from what ive been reading on here the upstream o2 you must have will post pic of the new pipe so you can see where it broke at in a bit
 
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