SixBolt_16G said:

Wife's Prelude was showing cords on the front tires when i replaced the strut a fee weeks ago. Got a set of GMaxs, but id be putting them on some wheels that are in desperate need of reconditioning.... So decided to try painting them. I know i should powdercoat them, but car isnt driven in bad weather and sits in the garage all week so should last long enough. Have been doing a little sanding everyday since work is so bizzy. Should be ready for primer/paint this weekend.

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Finished refinishing the Prelude wheels and got the tires mounted and balanced. Not perfect, but turned out great for a first time. Wife was super happy with it. VHT Ford Argent color was a perfect match, 2k clear...I only polished the center caps instead of painting them and everything matched. Went to get an alignment and found out she needs 4 new control arms. 2 of which arm discontinued with no aftermarket suppliers so guess im going to have to track down some prothanes.

Had to replace the internal shifter in a Mule 4010 Diesel transmission. Replacing the part was easy work but reinstalling the transmission and axle assembly will be the hard part.

No I didn't use the proper jig and yes the Harbor Freight lift held the transmission perfectly level. If I bought the proper transmission tools everytime I wouldn't have any space left. It's normally work with what you have.

Sold my buddy this wheel for his RHD S14 and he wanted to be sure the horns worked so I had to make that happen. Unfortunately he didn’t buy a quick release yet so the wheel is super close to his stalks but it’s on!

If you've never been bit by the horn wire, be aware, it can and will sting.

BLACK'98DSM said:

I now own a 1994 Yamaha XV535. Just got it registered, can't wait to restore and ride it.

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Hell yeah, I love Viragos.

I built one for a friend a few years ago.

I have a 1984 V45 Magna but no pictures and the carbs are off currently. It's a cool and fast old bike plus it has the 6th gear for economy. King/Queen seat from a V65 and a small windshield. Shaft drive and water cooled. Very comfy but I no longer trust John Q Public to see me, so that's why it hasn't had the carbs put back on. I don't trust the roads anymore. Its Dark Blue and has that small rake to it, like back in the day. I'll see if I can find any pictures of it.
This is a V65 but is the same frame just bigger engine.

2 stroke fan here!!
If they ain't smokin', they're broken!!

75 RD350 (orange) and 73 CT3 175 (gold) both up and running with clean carbs and fresh fuel.

I "ALSO" have a 1974 Suzuki TS185. It has a stuck clutch at the moment and I'm not real good with motorcycles.
It looks just like the owners manual shows in color. It needs a battery too.

^^^ That Zuki 185 is an awesome bike!!!

The Yamaha 175 above had the same thing going on with the clutch; bike was parked in 1980 with 1200mi on it.
I woke it back up a couple years ago to discover the clutch didn't want to release very well (or go into Neutral while running) and it slipped at the top RPM range in the upper gears.

Installed new friction plates, re-used steels, re-used springs and a fresh oil change; shifts like a 70's Japanese bike again!

The frictions I removed; I couldn't tell you why they were the cause of the problem by looking at them. So theres that!

SixBolt_16G said:

Finished refinishing the Prelude wheels and got the tires mounted and balanced. Not perfect, but turned out great for a first time. Wife was super happy with it. VHT Ford Argent color was a perfect match, 2k clear...I only polished the center caps instead of painting them and everything matched. Went to get an alignment and found out she needs 4 new control arms. 2 of which arm discontinued with no aftermarket suppliers so guess im going to have to track down some prothanes.

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Looks clean Brother

pma1123 said:

^^^ That Zuki 185 is an awesome bike!!!

The Yamaha 175 above had the same thing going on with the clutch; bike was parked in 1980 with 1200mi on it.
I woke it back up a couple years ago to discover the clutch didn't want to release very well (or go into Neutral while running) and it slipped at the top RPM range in the upper gears.

Installed new friction plates, re-used steels, re-used springs and a fresh oil change; shifts like a 70's Japanese bike again!

The frictions I removed; I couldn't tell you why they were the cause of the problem by looking at them. So theres that!

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Thank you for the tips!

My buddy asked me if I had a TDC finder, I didn't. I said give me 10 minutes.

Good idea Jason. I recently made a tool too, but far less fancy and just to save me a drive to the tool store

My buddies new to him 04 anniversary, 55k one owner, Kenne Bell 2.1 and full Maximum Motorsports suspension kitted and corner balanced Mustang. It is a well done car with a binder of everything done since new. Probably a $50k build. $10.5k is a steal I think. What do you all think? We were going to look at a 2008 Roush but that guy didn’t message him back and he started showing me this. Why are we going to look at that other car now?
Next a 2002 in for upholstery work next door.
Finally a 94 850 with 58k. Recent full paint and maintenance done for a sentimental value to the new to us customer. If you haven’t reset dash lights in the old Volvos it’s a trip. There’s a box in the engine bay with a pin. Insert pin into 1 of 12-13 holes and do a sort of Morse code in sequence.

Taking a few days to help a friend install a JDM 2.5 take out in this 12' Legacy GT.
This one (all stock) threw a rod at 185K and we're aiming to put it back on the road ASAP.

The engines in the Legacy GT are similar to WRX, but not interchangeable. (I'm no suby expert either)
These Legacy GT 2.5's are interesting because the turbo mounts lower than the oil drainplug.
This makes them have unique cylinder heads with a (cam driven?) oil pump, and the turbo oil drain has a stainless vessel bolted on to collect the oil.

Aside from that, I've owned the boring NA 2.5/CVT version of this car as a daily driver and really liked it.
I haven't noticed a lot of these 2010-13 era GT's on the roads, and come to find out they made under 2000 US models total with the turbo/6 speed.

Still working on taking a 700R4 out the hardest way possible. This is what I do as I wait for parts to come for the Laser. I need to get this floor in so I have room to put more DSM parts.

Just finished up these older Suzuki GSXR headlights

Still "Street Tuning" the OG LT-1 350 in the 86 Z28/Tremek TKO600 car.

I have been meandering with this whole project for awhile now. A place right off of the garage for cookouts and big parts. Also big enough for a car or trailer if needed.

What is the deal with new car battery life? My wife's 2023 Subaru left her stranded. Do new batteries suck or are new cars just taxing everything so hard? Subaru sites are lit up discussing 3 years is probably average lifespan. This car is exactly 3 years old with 50k on it bought new. Guess it gets a new battery today.

New batteries SUCK Paul. My son worked at Autozone before going to a mechanic shop. 1 year warranty. If you get the top of the line you may get a 2 year warranty (if 3, you are lucky). Of course buy the heaviest, it has the most lead plates. Just what he told me.

Batteries seem like an easy place to cut costs. I'm not a fan of auto start-stop, that has to be hard on both batteries and starters.

steve said:

Batteries seem like an easy place to cut costs. I'm not a fan of auto start-stop, that has to be hard on both batteries and starters.

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I absolutely HATE those auto stop/start cars. Watch, next they will mount those starters in the lifter valley My son said there are already a few cars that had wonderful engineers that placed them there. SMH
BTW.....I'm on a short vacation at Branson. I got bored so I came to see what was up, .

I dont use the auto start/stop. I shut it off every time I get in the car. I do know there are things running when the car is off. These small drains have to be killing batteries. These 2 new cars I have are the first ones ive owned with this much stuff.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

New batteries SUCK Paul. My son worked at Autozone before going to a mechanic shop. 1 year warranty. If you get the top of the line you may get a 2 year warranty (if 3, you are lucky). Of course buy the heaviest, it has the most lead plates. Just what he told me.

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They do, one of my mechanic friends said they had a whole pallet of batteries around a year old to be returned.

Out local wreckers charges $50-60 for a tested used battery and for $25 extra you get lifetime free replacements, this is the route I've gone for the last couple batteries I bought.