Does anyone know where to get a 16v alternator? I know people in the past have ran these cars at 16v using only the battery for that voltage and charging between runs at the drag strip. So the electronics are ok with it. These cars love voltage and I want to try using a 14v battery and 16v alternator.

You will need to do voltage step down module for all the things requiring lower voltage.

I cannot remember a place off the top of my head, but you could contact a few companies that make high amperage alternators for competition car audio stuff and have them convert a Saturn alternator or maybe a Mitsu alternator. It would be easier to have a properly wired and well grounded high amperage alternator, then do a voltage boost with a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump and an upgraded ignition. Don't forget to increase gauge of wire to the starter as well.

Can the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump be set to run at any voltage you want less than 17.5 volts? Or is the output switched back and forth between 17.5 volts in boost and normal system voltage when not in boost, with nothing in between?
I couldn't find a current manual for it. The Kenne Bell web site says "Installation Manual library is being digitized, and will appear here when complete."
The MSD 2351 Programmable Fuel Pump Voltage Booster on the other hand has a pretty good downloadable manual and it looks like you could get any voltage you'd want from it.
Looks like the max continuous current from it at 16 volts would be 17 amps. Or for 1 minute you could get 23 amps. (From the MSD manual).
It's not clear to me how clean the "DC" is on the outputs of any of these boosters. Something you might want to know for using off-label like this, to run electronics.

Stapl3 said:

Does anyone know where to get a 16v alternator? I know people in the past have ran these cars at 16v using only the battery for that voltage and charging between runs at the drag strip. So the electronics are ok with it. These cars love voltage and I want to try using a 14v battery and 16v alternator.

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This got me looking at 14v and 16v batteries. Looks like there are some interesting ones. Do you have an idea what one you would buy for this? Looks like there are AGM (lead acid) and Lithium Titanate (LTO) batteries available for automotive/racing.

There was a company up here in Ottawa Ontario that told me they could convert my oem alternator to 16v. I just can't recall the name of the place right now.

My friend runs a DC to DC converter to keep all sensors and ECU at 12v while ignition/injectors etc are running the full 16v.

twicks69 said:

You will need to do voltage step down module for all the things requiring lower voltage.

I cannot remember a place off the top of my head, but you could contact a few companies that make high amperage alternators for competition car audio stuff and have them convert a Saturn alternator or maybe a Mitsu alternator. It would be easier to have a properly wired and well grounded high amperage alternator, then do a voltage boost with a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump and an upgraded ignition. Don't forget to increase gauge of wire to the starter as well.

Click to expand...

Do you know of anything off the top your head that would be unhappy at 16v?

We're on Boost said:

Can the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump be set to run at any voltage you want less than 17.5 volts? Or is the output switched back and forth between 17.5 volts in boost and normal system voltage when not in boost, with nothing in between?
I couldn't find a current manual for it. The Kenne Bell web site says "Installation Manual library is being digitized, and will appear here when complete."
The MSD 2351 Programmable Fuel Pump Voltage Booster on the other hand has a pretty good downloadable manual and it looks like you could get any voltage you'd want from it.
Looks like the max continuous current from it at 16 volts would be 17 amps. Or for 1 minute you could get 23 amps. (From the MSD manual).
It's not clear to me how clean the "DC" is on the outputs of any of these boosters. Something you might want to know for using off-label like this, to run electronics.


This got me looking at 14v and 16v batteries. Looks like there are some interesting ones. Do you have an idea what one you would buy for this? Looks like there are AGM (lead acid) and Lithium Titanate (LTO) batteries available for automotive/racing.

Click to expand...

I have used BAPs many times in the past and love them, this time around I want the entire car at the voltage rather than individual components here and there.

As for the battery, probably AGM. I see XSPower has some starting at 400 bucks but admittedly haven't looked much at that part of the project yet.

Yesterday I got my hands on a 16v alternator and I will buy a 14v battery to go with it.

jdxnc said:

My friend runs a DC to DC converter to keep all sensors and ECU at 12v while ignition/injectors etc are running the full 16v.

Click to expand...

I am looking at this for 12v, and I see this which looks like I could do 14v.

Would it be appropriate to run two separate units, one to pin 102 and one to pin 103? Or maybe 14v to 102 and 12v to 103 is ideal.

ECU aside, I still cannot think of anything in the car that would hate life at ~16v.

Stapl3 said:

ECU aside, I still cannot think of anything in the car that would hate life at ~16v.

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All the lighting doesn't really care for it.