Yet again more clutch problems (slipping / ??)

[toppertopper]

Let start with , i am running a n/t transmission almost new centerforce dual friction sprung clutch and pp ....Before this a dual friction sprung clutch and act 2900 pp was used (poped a spring out before break in was over ) --Can i still use this clutch with out a spring ?
Little more back ground ...I did try and awd turbo master and slave (No go) tried a fwd turbo master and slave (No go) 3rd i finally tried a non turbo master and slave (Finally got it to go ) --Yes i followed jacks video...But i could not get the car to get into gear with out the rod almost out the clutch rod nut (if thats what its called)
With it like that it will slip under boost 12 psi , If i turn it in a bit more i have no 1st (grinds trying to put it in to 1st ) I start in 2nd and while moving it will go into 1st when slowing down at 20kmh , And it will hold boost no slipping ...Stiffer peddle
...After a bit it will start slipping again
Now for awhile the clutch was stiff
But now it is soft when fully pressed , if you let off an inch it will go , still slip ..When i adjust so it doesn't slip , it is still soft , and starts to slip soon after ...when it slips i can let off for a sec , press it will grab and go for a sec ...When i push it to slip let of for a sec press , let go press it will go slip go slip etc ...What am i missing here
Just had a basic tune so its not going to blow,..The tune tossed down 423 fwd hp @ 13 psi before slipping over and over again soft peddle...The shop has never seen a peddle go from hard to soft the way it did even with adjusting

Yes the flywheel was at proper specs (new oem ) used with the 1st dual friction before the spring broke at 350-450 km's
New clutch fork , pivot , and oem Tob
Also when i press the clutch peddle no noise when i let go there is a noise , light sound not exactly sure what it is

 

[Mark4g63t]

Did you get the flywheel resurfaced to have the correct step?

 

[toppertopper]

Edited the original post check the bottom

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

The pedal feel changing sounds like you have bad/old hydraulic fluid or air in the line. In my research, people have had a lot of issues with the dual friction disks, any reason you chose that over a single friction material? 1st grinding only from a stop sounds like the synchro may be bad/going bad. How was everything working before the latest clutch job?

 

[toppertopper]

The grinding from a stop , only happens when i adjust to hold the boost , but if i back it off a bit i can drive around shifting fine with no grinds but i do get slipping when trying to go into wot
...The only reason i went with the dual friction is the po had one in , i also installed one in my brother 5.0l mustang and it held good ...
I will bleed the system tomorrow and double check for leaks , master and slave...Also the fluid is not old i changed it fresh every time i changed the master and slave (awd turbo-fwd turbo - fwd non turbo )

Also when i bought the car off the po he gave up on the car , he had just put in a new n/t transmission and clutch ,I pulled the transmission and one of the springs from the new clutch had poped out

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

Okay, I see.. Have you checked the clutch pedal for free play? IE pump the pedal a couple times and try to lift it up. For whatever reason it appears you're not getting enough travel to fully engage and disengage at the same adjustment.

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

EDIT:Tapatalk won't let me edit the post I just made.. Anyway, I reread your first post and noticed that it'll catch and start to slip.. That sounds to me like you need to step up to something meant for a little more power, like a 6 puck disc and 2600-2900lb pressure plate. Street disks, as they heat up, slip more and more where puck clutches will generally keep grabbing until the pressure plate or flywheel go. If you drop the trans again it couldn't hurt to have the flywheel step height double checked - I've red repeatedly that ACT kits require a different spec.