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ECMlink Wideband questions

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Cable

Probationary Member
13
11
Jun 22, 2021
Ohio
Got my 91 FWD up and running very good. Need to start looking at data with ECM Link to see if i can tune it.

95 pistons is the one thing i have on this engine that i want to check on. Stock injectors and fuel pump.

Sounds like i need to install a wide band O2 sensor to use ECM Link.

I did not see this model 30-0300 in the list. I assume this O2 sensor is OK with ECM Link?

Do this not thread into the existing O2 port? We have to weld on the bung to install it?

I have a lot to learn and will keep on reading.

Thanks!
Chad
 
Got my 91 FWD up and running very good. Need to start looking at data with ECM Link to see if i can tune it.

95 pistons is the one thing i have on this engine that i want to check on. Stock injectors and fuel pump.

Sounds like i need to install a wide band O2 sensor to use ECM Link.

I did not see this model 30-0300 in the list. I assume this O2 sensor is OK with ECM Link?

Do this not thread into the existing O2 port? We have to weld on the bung to install it?

I have a lot to learn and will keep on reading.

Thanks!
Chad
That should wideband will work just fine.
You can either thread it into the narrowband port and replace the factory narrowband that is used for closed loop operation or A lot of people will have an extra bung welded in and use that one so they can retain the factory narrowband.
 
Thanks guys!

If i retain the narrow band and add the wide band how does the wiring work?

Chad
 
You'll need to setup the wiring like the wiring diagram shows in the instructions however you'll need to wire the WHITE wire out of the gauge to an unused input on the ECU harness that goes into the ECU and then repurpose it in the ecm link software.
For instance you could use the EGR temp input to the ECU.

I'm trying to remember if you need to use sensor ground of the ECU or chassis ground.
*Edit*

You'll run the brown wire to SENSOR GROUND, and then the black wire to chassis ground.
It's pretty vital as you might have an difference from what the gauge and ECU sees.
 
Actually i dont see that this guage/probe has a 0-1volt output. Just 0-5.
 
Ah.. reading is good. :) I can run 0-5volt to the ECU then use the simulation...


Narrowband simulation​

Wideband kits typically provide two distinct outputs. One is a 0-1v narrowband simulation and another is a 0-5v wideband output used for datalogging more precise A/F ratio data. You would typically run the narrowband output to the ECU's front O2 input so the ECU could run normal closed loop off this signal and then run the 0-5v output into a different ECU input for datalogging purposes.
With ECMLink's narrowband simulation function, you can simply run the 0-5v output to the ECU and then configure the ECU to produce the 0-1v simulation internally, thus freeing up an additional input on the ECU for some other aftermarket sensor.
 
I'd highly recommend NOT using the stock O2 location / NB simulation with an AEM WB. Put it downstream for more reliability and keep the OEM NB 02 sensor.
I'm running the same AEM gauge you're looking at and have had issues with the heat cycle hanging and not booting. Mine's standalone so at least it doesn't mess with fuel trims when it doesn't boot.

Don't forget to ground the gauge with a GOOD GROUND. It's pretty vital as you might have an difference from what the gauge and ECU sees.

I'm trying to remember if you need to use sensor ground of the ECU or chassis ground.
On top of a good ground, maybe even direct to the neg. battery post as AEM recommended to me. In addition, I ran my +12v direct to battery through a normally open relay. The later helped my boot cycle but didn't completely fix it.
I used the sensor ground from the ECU, separate from chassis ground.
Here's a post I had regarding an issue I had with the AEM WB and connecting it to ECMLink. Full details of how I wired it too are in here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/aem-wideband-pulsing-erratic-readings.546723/
 
So pin 4 on the ECU must be 5 volt tolerant..

OK i will keep reading . This makes more sense now.

I can keep the narrow band and weld in the bung for the wide band.. Then wire the 0-5volt signal to the EGR input on the ECU also.

I kinda like this idea now that i am reading more.

Thanks again all!

Chad
 
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