Wide Body Kit on a Spyder

[Koleminer20]

Alright guys, I'm looking for a little information here I haven't seen before. I have a 99 Spyder, and I'm going to be putting the NX Wide Body Kit on it. The guy at the body shop mentioned something to me about because the parts were designed for the coupe that it's a pretty good bet that it'll crack. Does anyone have experience with this? Is there anything that can be done with it? I'm just looking for some answers before I get too deep into this thing

 

[BoostedBen]

Uhm.... shouldn't be a problem. The chassis isn't different until you get well above the bumpers/side skirt area.

 

[805DSM]

If its a reputable shop then they wouldn't have a problem installing it.

 

[bombDSM]

I dont see how there could be a problem. Maybe they are not confident in their ability to install it Its the only thing i could think of.

 

[4g63tc]

The shop is Saying it will crack due to the "overlaying" of fiberglass over existing sheet metal, and blending it in.

It's not just a Kit that replaces the bumper, skirts, and rear.

This doesn't happen on a hardtop due to the structural rigidity of the body ( minimal flex), on convertibles the body tends to flex more since it lacks the roof.

It's not that he's worried about the job his business will due, it's the warranty he'll have to adhere to when the fiberglass, and body filler crack.

 

[Koleminer20]

It's not that he's worried about the job his business will due, it's the warranty he'll have to adhere to when the fiberglass, and body filler crack.

So you think that it will crack? Regardless of how far across the body they blend it?

 

[nuclearr]

I will crack on a hard top too. Fiberglass and metal do not like each other they a have different expansion rates when hot and cold. Thus creating cracks. This is also why bondo cracks when it is applied to thick.

 

[Sp1kE]

The shop is Saying it will crack due to the "overlaying" of fiberglass over existing sheet metal, and blending it in.

It's not just a Kit that replaces the bumper, skirts, and rear.

This doesn't happen on a hardtop due to the structural rigidity of the body ( minimal flex), on convertibles the body tends to flex more since it lacks the roof.

It's not that he's worried about the job his business will due, it's the warranty he'll have to adhere to when the fiberglass, and body filler crack.

Have you seen the extra factory bracing in the spyders?

The spyders were built as a convertable, they were not cut and modified into a convertible like some of the other manufacturers of that time period.

I doubt there would be any extra "flexing".

 

[Koleminer20]

I will crack on a hard top too. Fiberglass and metal do not like each other they a have different expansion rates when hot and cold. Thus creating cracks. This is also why bondo cracks when it is applied to thick.

Well that part of it makes sense. Also makes sense why the shops that are extremely reputable in that aspect cost a bit more. I would think the care they put into each project ensures the most longevity out of it.

The biggest concern he expressed to me was the body flexing. I know I can get the strut tower braces (front and rear), sub-frame connectors, and I've even been looking into a more robust light/roll bar that I could tie into the frame below. I think if I get that much into it, then it should be pretty solid...

Have you seen the extra factory bracing in the spyders?

The spyders were built as a convertable, they were not cut and modified into a convertible like some of the other manufacturers of that time period.

I doubt there would be any extra "flexing".

I thought about this too... Just an assumption, since the convertibles have more weight than the coupes.

 

[nuclearr]

If you find a rear strut tower brace that works with the top let me know because the hard top brace will fit but the top will not go down.

A spyder does have more flex. How much more I can not say. Look at the doors and jambs on a spyder vrs a hard top you will notice an extra bracket on the lock side. I am sure that was put there for the body flex.

 

[Koleminer20]

Yeah, I need to do a little more looking into the rear strut bar, but I would think if I took care of all that, then it should be pretty solid and resistant to quite a bit of flex and twist.

 

[jcart953]

If you find a rear strut tower brace that works with the top let me know because the hard top brace will fit but the top will not go down.

+1 ^^^ . I have a rear but only keep it on during the winter seasons since tops stays up. Once the summer/spring comes then its removed.

 

[Koleminer20]

+1 ^^^ . I have a rear but only keep it on during the winter seasons since tops stays up. Once the summer/spring comes then its removed.

The problem I have is that I'd never drive the car in the winter, after the body work is done, so I would need something to work with the top! I'll let you know if I come across one

 

[4g63tc]

Have you seen the extra factory bracing in the spyders?

The spyders were built as a convertable, they were not cut and modified into a convertible like some of the other manufacturers of that time period.

I doubt there would be any extra "flexing".

All convertibles flex, it's a given fact.

Do you really think the "extra" bracing provided at the factory is the same as having a hardtop?

I have owned 4 and still own 2 convertibles a 2k Mazda Miata (purpose built convertible) and a 2004 Porsche 911 Carrera Cab S.

one is a 100k car the other about 25k new.

They both have body flex. It is inherent to the design of the car.

Drive the same car in both hardtop, and Vert over a bumpy road at the same speed and you'll see what I'm talking about.

The Miata sees track-time at willow springs raceway during NASA, and SCCA runs it has:

Big dog frog arms
underbody "X" bracing
front and rear strut bars
and a 6pt cage which ties the rear deck, to the front footwells.

And I can still feel the body flex difference when I run with my hardtop on of off.

 

[Koleminer20]

All convertibles flex, it's a given fact...


The Miata sees track-time at willow springs raceway during NASA, and SCCA runs it has:

Big dog frog arms
underbody "X" bracing
front and rear strut bars
and a 6pt cage which ties the rear deck, to the front footwells.

And I can still feel the body flex difference when I run with my hardtop on of off.

Well, the car itself I don't think if going to see any track time. Mostly, it'll be for show kinda stuff. I was contemplating a motor, but if I did, it would be for the strip. In your opinion, in non-track applications, how likely is it that the wide body kit would crack due to flexure? I was going to work on getting the sub-frame connectors, a front strut bar, and working on fabbing a rear strut bar, as well as looking into a roll bar I could tie into the sub-frame as well.

Do you think it might be enough to keep it stable enough, just for normal driving conditions?

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Why would you put a bodykit on your car and add un-needed weight.. If you don't like the way the car looks why did you buy it? Function>Form

 

[dropped99gs]

Now this is just a thought I had that would remedy not having to worry about the cracking issue.
Rather than mold over the rivits and blend, you could leave the rivest naked/exposed.
I've seen this and if done right IMO I think it can look aggressive yet still look uber professional and not like you just threw it on.
I looked for some images to explain what I mean, but it is a common look with some track cars.
Just a thought.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Then you have the paint expense and what not. They crack real easy.

 

[4g63tc]

Well, the car itself I don't think if going to see any track time. Mostly, it'll be for show kinda stuff. I was contemplating a motor, but if I did, it would be for the strip. In your opinion, in non-track applications, how likely is it that the wide body kit would crack due to flexure? I was going to work on getting the sub-frame connectors, a front strut bar, and working on fabbing a rear strut bar, as well as looking into a roll bar I could tie into the sub-frame as well.

Do you think it might be enough to keep it stable enough, just for normal driving conditions?

Speed bumps will make it flex, rough road with potholes. etc.

TBH it may or may not crack, it's a gamble. If it's for show then go for it. If it's a dd, and you want the "Kitted" look there are tons of other options besides a "Wide-body"

A true Widebody, that wouldn't crack, would be to actually Add metal sections and build it out. It takes a ton of work, but won't ever crack, and if done right makes your car unique in every way.

Why would you put a bodykit on your car and add un-needed weight.. If you don't like the way the car looks why did you buy it? Function>Form

He's Doing this to an N/T, do you really think it'll make that much of a difference?

In his case Function < Form.

 

[Koleminer20]

TBH it may or may not crack, it's a gamble. If it's for show then go for it. If it's a dd, and you want the "Kitted" look there are tons of other options besides a "Wide-body"

A true Widebody, that wouldn't crack, would be to actually Add metal sections and build it out. It takes a ton of work, but won't ever crack, and if done right makes your car unique in every way.

Well, it's not just the kitted look, I like the overall stance that a 'Wide-body' produces. I had contemplated trying to mimic something like the kit I have out of metal, but couldn't find anywhere that would be interested in entertaining it. I know my fabbing skills are no where near that level, so the thought just kind of died off.

And yeah, if I do wind up building a motor, it would be for just strip applications, nothing requiring cornering, leading to extreme roll, etc.

 

[4g63tc]

Well, it's not just the kitted look, I like the overall stance that a 'Wide-body' produces. I had contemplated trying to mimic something like the kit I have out of metal, but couldn't find anywhere that would be interested in entertaining it. I know my fabbing skills are no where near that level, so the thought just kind of died off.

And yeah, if I do wind up building a motor, it would be for just strip applications, nothing requiring cornering, leading to extreme roll, etc.

what exactly is the look you're trying to achieve? A good stance?, a staggered widewheel setup? there are quite a few cars on here that achieve that without the wide-body kit.

 

[dsmlover07]

Like i said in the past, do you, and enjoy your project, rock that kit if you like.

 

[Koleminer20]

what exactly is the look you're trying to achieve? A good stance?, a staggered widewheel setup? there are quite a few cars on here that achieve that without the wide-body kit.

I don't think I could classify what I'm looking to get out of it. I like the lines that the wide-body kit offers, and when I mix it with the other body mods that are going with it, I think it's just a conglomeration of ideas that would give it the wide-body appearance, and maybe a little more aggressive perhaps? But it's not about the stance, or the wheels by any means

Like i said in the past, do you, and enjoy your project, rock that kit if you like.

I'm just a little concerned with the longevity of the kit, and cracking due to body twist...

 

[Colt4G63 also]

The only way to prevent the body from flexing would be to install an extensive cage. It really doesn't matter if you race it or don't, or if you build the engine or don't. You'll get most of your twisting force by just turning in and out of your driveway. If you put a fiberglass kit on your car, and you want it to last for any period of time without cracking, you should probably just leave it in a trailer. A tiny bird strike is enough to do serious damage to most of those kits. They aren't thick like a boat, that stuff is super flimsy.

Heck most hartops end up with cracks in the bodykit after a while.

Ps. Anybody who has driven both cars knows the convertible feels like a wet towel compared to the hardtop. It's going to be like that with almost any unibody convertible that retails for less than $80k new.

 

[4g63tc]

Ps. Anybody who has driven both cars knows the convertible feels like a wet towel compared to the hardtop. It's going to be like that with almost any unibody convertible that retails for less than $80k new.

So true.