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Wide Body Kit on a Spyder

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The only way to prevent the body from flexing would be to install an extensive cage. It really doesn't matter if you race it or don't, or if you build the engine or don't. You'll get most of your twisting force by just turning in and out of your driveway. If you put a fiberglass kit on your car, and you want it to last for any period of time without cracking, you should probably just leave it in a trailer. A tiny bird strike is enough to do serious damage to most of those kits. They aren't thick like a boat, that stuff is super flimsy.

Would it have a chance, if the pieces were reinforced? Regardless of weight of course, maybe if they were made 2-3 times thicker, and completely reinforced?
 
I don't think I could classify what I'm looking to get out of it. I like the lines that the wide-body kit offers, and when I mix it with the other body mods that are going with it, I think it's just a conglomeration of ideas that would give it the wide-body appearance, and maybe a little more aggressive perhaps? But it's not about the stance, or the wheels by any means



I'm just a little concerned with the longevity of the kit, and cracking due to body twist...

I was asking because going through the "Kitting" process is time consuming, and arduous, but the payoff could be great. I have a few pics in my gallery ( which i seriously need to update) that you might want to look at.

Would it have a chance, if the pieces were reinforced? Regardless of weight of course, maybe if they were made 2-3 times thicker, and completely reinforced?

Does it snow where you live? If so this may end up being a fairweather car.

Body kits in general are not for strength, the fiberglass in most areas is less than 1/8th in thick, with no support structure. You can reinforce it, but it will never as strong as steel, or as flexible as Urethane. on my kit i added another 1/4 " of material with a tiger hair gun, and i'm sure it will still crack.
 
I was asking because going through the "Kitting" process is time consuming, and arduous, but the payoff could be great. I have a few pics in my gallery ( which i seriously need to update) that you might want to look at.
Does it snow where you live? If so this may end up being a fairweather car.
Body kits in general are not for strength, the fiberglass in most areas is less than 1/8th in thick, with no support structure. You can reinforce it, but it will never as strong as steel, or as flexible as Urethane. on my kit i added another 1/4 " of material with a tiger hair gun, and i'm sure it will still crack.

Right, I know it's never going to be as strong as steel. Also, it would most definitely be a fair weather car, maybe some rain if it comes up, but it'll never be driven between November and March/April.

p.s. Nice kit also, looks really clean
 
If you make it thicker than it will be more likely to crack the filler off the edges. You want something that is flexible that flexes with the car, not something that it very stiff.
 
This is to reply to the post about re-enforcing the kit... Yes, re-enforcing any fiberglass kit will make it stronger, and less susceptible to breaking. Would you happen to know how many ply the kit is? Also, my dad owned a body shop for some time, body shops do not make their money on import cars, and doing things like body kits, they make their money on insurance claims. Taking it to a body shop may not be the best choice if you can do the work yourself and get familiar with the fabrication side of things it would make your car not only a cool project, but also a good learning experience. Body work is mostly preperation work. The more time you put into it, the better and longer lasting it will turn out.

Also, if I was doing this (which I kind of think I will be in the future) I would fiberglass some bolts onto the back side of the kit, then drill holes into the car (door / quarter panel) to fit the peices nice and snug onto the car. Then to blend the kit in with metal I would use a panel adhesive. This will work much better than using bondo. Of course you need to Plan where the bolts are going to go before you fiberglass them to the back side of your kit. Also, you will need to get yourself some good clamps, or other tools to hold the kit up to the car while you stare at it for hours.
 
H brace underneath the carbuild a half cage from the back of the front seats back. I build cars for a living I and am about to build two custom wide body spyders withno worry of flexing. I have had a wide body eclipse and mr2. I have also done two s200 verts a hardtop 350z and a neon. never has any of those come back. Heres whatsome people do. install the widebody and put it in primer and drive the car for about a month. No cracks paint the car.

forgot two cars. a 2003 tiburon and a cvic hatch
 
Would you happen to know how many ply the kit is? Also, my dad owned a body shop for some time, body shops do not make their money on import cars, and doing things like body kits, they make their money on insurance claims.
Also, if I was doing this (which I kind of think I will be in the future) I would fiberglass some bolts onto the back side of the kit, then drill holes into the car (door / quarter panel) to fit the peices nice and snug onto the car. Then to blend the kit in with metal I would use a panel adhesive. .

The shop that it's at isn't a run of the mill body shop. They've built their reputation in the area based on custom work. The guy that will be doing my kit came highly recommended from 2 or 3 different shops, actually. I do now know how many ply the kit is, only that it's about 3/16" thick. The bolt idea isn't a bad one, but the kit as it sits is going to be riveted onto the car, and then blended in with fiberglass

H brace underneath the carbuild a half cage from the back of the front seats back. I build cars for a living I and am about to build two custom wide body spyders withno worry of flexing. never has any of those come back. Heres whatsome people do. install the widebody and put it in primer and drive the car for about a month. No cracks paint the car.

I didn't think of a half cage underneath, but I've also never heard of 'H-bracing'. And the plan for the car was to have the shop put the kit on, get the car in primer, and then I would drive it for a bit before getting it painted
 
I have the kit installed on mine and did the body work with a friend and came out well. It did crack in two spots since I did it three years ago. I had a front strut bar and a steel bar for my Simpson harness welded on the the interior of the body to stiffen the car up but it still happened. You will need rear wheel spacers 1 inch minimum sparco gas cap and custom gas line. The kit does look pretty good but back your looks with hp too. Don't be all show no go!!
 
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