which wideband

[TRSblader]

I read a few older threads about wideband performance, and basically came up with just about all of them perform just as well as any other wideband. I was wondering, with the newer technology out here now, which wideband you guys prefer and why. Also wondering which wideband is easiest to install these days, and which seems to work best with ECMLink V3.

Open to any and all suggestions, from the cheapest to the most expensive ones out there. Thanks guys

 

[Calan]

I've always had good luck with my Zietronix and their dual function programmable guage. Works great with DSMLink (v2) and is within a psi or so of an analog Autometer guage. Plus the "brain" has additional imputs for MAP sensor, EGT, etc.

 

[knochgoon24]

....It has two configurable outputs, so you can use one for logging and displaying, and one for simulating a narrowband which definitely gains you gas mileage both because of the quick warmup and accuracy, and because you can lean the closed loop out by setting changing the points on the output.

I've debated on doing exactly this. What kind of gas mileage increase were you able to get out of it?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

LC-1 hands down is a better unit than the AEM UEGO.

I got mine on from EBAY for $196 shipped:
Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 With Db Red Gauge UEGO :eBay Motors (item 190308054178 end time May-26-09 10:40:00 PDT)

But contact some of our site supporting vendors to see if they will price match that!!

I didn't... Then afterwards I contacted some of them and they were willing to price match it.

 

[DGajre777]

I like this wideband gauge but haven't seen anyone use it.

 

[tkelly27]

I use the JAW unit, and have programmed the 2nd output to work my old narrowband gauge. The LCD is nice, but there really isn't much you can do about it when your tune is off.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

This entire time I thought the AEM UEGO was the one to get.

But if it can't even log with dsmlink, that's not even an option. It looks like Innovate is the #1 when it comes to price, and dsmlink functionality. That's what i'll be getting.

 

[TRSblader]

They aren't saying you can't use AEM with DSMLink, they're just saying there are some problems with it.

 

[fergulus]

The whole 'difficulty' with installing the LC-1 and gauge is just finding a spot for the extra wiring. There is a reset switch, to recalibrate the sensor to ambient air, which can be a pain to find a spot for. I just drilled a hole in my kick panel beside the ECU for it. As far as the rest of the wiring, just read the instructions 20 times, make sure you know what you are splicing into, and enjoy!

When I installed mine, I was doing a complete gauge pod swap (boost, A/F. water temp, oil pressure) and had so many wires that I got a migraine. I took my time and installed them one at a time, and after you get over your fear of wiring, its really easy. The LC-1 is an outstanding product, and I will be splicing it into my ECU harness for Link v3 (in the mail )

 

[loba]

They aren't saying you can't use AEM with DSMLink, they're just saying there are some problems with it.

What are the problems with UEGO and DSMlink? All I read was people complaining without reason. Or I'm blind.

 

[PawlGST]

AEM Eugo Plug and play FTW

 

[zhjiln]

glowshift is a great wideband... very accurate and fast....

under 200 dollars...

and nice displays to choose from... tinted series... elite series...

 

[montes24]

Im also in the market for a wideband. Was really interested in AEM but just to set thing straight.. If you dont have a DSM link or a datalogger will the LC-1 still work for a future upgrade of a datalogger? Or is the wiring setup on the LC-1 on the ecu?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

the glowshift looks good and all, and if someone says its great and works im sure it does, BUT you can't log so thats a big negative.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

What are the problems with UEGO and DSMlink? All I read was people complaining without reason. Or I'm blind.

The problem is that there is an equation to convert the voltage to AFR. The "White Papers" or user manual will have you think that it is V*2+10.0=AFR

This would make 0v=10.0AFR and 5v=20.0AFR

The problem comes in when you hook it to the ECU. What the UEGO outputs to the ECU is not exactly what it reads on the guage. Therefore the "white papers" are off considerably from what it outputs on the gauge to what you get at the ECU.

With the LC-1 you still have this problem because the resistance at the ECU input is not 0 so there is a voltage offset. Luckily with the LC-1 you can program this offset to be correct. You can program the LC-1 to output a set 2.5v. Then you can log it and you will more than likely get a different voltage there. Take the difference and program it in so that when the unit is trying to output a certain voltage it scales it differently for the output to the ECU so that it will read it correctly.

What good is your logged AFR when it's not accurate to what the AFR really is??

 

[loba]

Thanks for the thorough explanation of the issue. I JUST bought a UEGO too. Oh well, I can always switch when DSMlink rolls around. Any idea what the resistance IS at the ECU? Because I'm POSITIVE there's a way to modify the signal sent to the ECU to prevent me from buying another wideband gauge.

I'll have my brother the electrical engineer help me with it when it comes time.

 

[me612]

I have the PLX M300 and it's been great for me, easily loggable with link.

My roommate has an RX7 and uses an LC-1 combined with a Dynotune gauge:
Square Wideband air fuel gauge, velcro anywhere, size of a keychain remote. Wideband air fuel ratio gauges help tune engines! Innovate wideband air fuel gauges are compact and accurate. - Square Wideband air fuel gauge, velcro anywhere, size of a key

Both of ours use the generic Bosch VW sensors, which was a key selling point for us. After 3 years of abuse, I had to replace my sensor this year. This is where I felt the research payed off. I was able to pick up a brand new sensor from my local Napa for $50 as it's just the standard VW Bosch sensor that all parts stores carry.

So my one piece of advice to you would be to take into account the cost of a replacement sensor, and see if the one you're looking at purchasing uses a unique sensor/plug that might cost more to replace, or does it use a more standardized sensor that you can cheaply replace.