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which maf-t do i have?

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akujiki87

10+ Year Contributor
30
2
Jun 24, 2012
san diego, California
Ok so I picked up a maf-t from craigslist and its missing the sticker that's on the front of the box. I do know it is for a 1g eclipse. Which is good. But I'm having a hard time figuring out if it is ver 2.xx+ or a previous version. Can't upload a pic until tomorrow but I can describe the switch layout so maybe someone will know that. To the far left almost center is a dial that reads aux. Below that is the switches numbered 1-4 and under that it says mode. To the right of those are 4 more dial switches in a row. Does this help at all?

Also everything is set to 0 and off. I'm trying to get it set up on a completely stock system except for uicp. Anyone know off hand what switches need to be where? Thanks for the help. Pix up tomorrow.
 
Awesome that link had a pic of the one I have. I have the 1.7. Does anyone have a link to the settings instructions for 1.7? I'm tryin to navigate from my phone and the search function on here doesn't like my phone AMD google is failing me. Sorry. Thanks.
 
I actually found one for a 1.3 i think it was. from what i gather you leave everything at zero for a stock set up.
 
Whelp crap. I do know I have stock 450cc but can't find any like generic settings for ver 1.7. The ver 2.0 has completely different knob labels
 
Ok so I thought I'd just ask Here instead of starting another thread. I got the maft installed with my 3" maf. Everything is zeroed out except base is 2. All flip switches are at off. Now when under boost when I shift sometimes it hesitates hard. Like a jolt. And when under boost and letting off gas the same thing. Any tips?
 
The best tip i can give you is take it off and put the stock setup back until you get a wideband. You will never get it set correctly without one. I did use a logger and got mine close for cruising but under boost i have no idea what it was doing. Its more of a headache than its worth just to hear a lil whoosh, trust me. Specially without a wideband

But if youre insistant, make sure the aux is set for what vehicle you have, and if memory serves, that 4th dip switch should be up and the rest down

Oops my bad its switch 3 up for fuel cut defender, not 4
 
I actually flipped that switch after I made the post and took it for a quick drive down the street at my work. Seemed to run a lot smoother.
 
Well like i say, you definitely need something to tune by. A logger is cheap, and it will help you to get your fuel trims set right so at least youre not leaning out cruising. A wideband will help throughout your rpm range. Take it from someone whose engine blew because of not having a proper tune LOL
 
I'm going to be looking into a logger over the weekend pending I don't trade the car. I'm in talks with trading for another vehicle so we shall see haha.
 
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