Which Electronic Boost Controller is the best ?

[czech09]

Sorry in my thread before I messed up...
anyone have any input on this ? Is it just better to spend the $ on a Safc II to tune it out and keep a manual boost controller or is the electronic boost controller a handy piece of equipment ? Lmk what you guys think...thanks in advance

 

[TurBoGs-T]

For it's price i think an electric boost controller is pointless. It does the exact same thing that a MBC does except it allows you to do so without opening the hood. For $338 less i will gladly open my hood to adjust. I would go with a SAFC anyday before i buy a EBC.

 

[ohio98eclipse]

I wouldnt say its remotely close to the same thing as a mbc. I have the apexi avcr and the few things i like about it are as follows.
No boost creep once so ever i set it and it stays put.
I can set my boost for each gear and since im fwd that helps a lot. example would be 5 psi in 1st than 15 in second and 17 third or whatever to stop from spnnin my tires as much. other than that it has a rev and speed tach built in which came in handy when i changed my gauges and it has like 500 other features i have no idea on how to use. but i like it a lot and if you concerned about money as much just shop on ebay. a lot of times they will sell the avcr and afc II as a set for 500+ shipping. i picked up my avcr for 180

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Well since I don't know what mods or anything you have now. it's tough to say for you.

For me. I have had a 500.00 Blitz SBC-ID and a 10.00 Home Depot MBC and from where I'm at I would never spend that kind of money on a boost controller again.

 

[czech09]

Well I'm looking to buy an awd 95 - it has a Buschur 16g (still don't know what that means if that's a small big evo 3 ?), walbro 255lph fuel pump, act 2600 clutch, intake, 3" test pipe, MBC, Adjustable Cam Gears, Upper Inc. Piping, 1G BOV, and boost + a&f gauges.

If I got that, I thought of first investing in a FMIC, then upgrade the injectors to RC 550s and getting a safc II or the datalogger thing via a palm pilot.

What do you guys think ?
Thanks...

 

[boostedinaz]

Well I'm looking to buy an awd 95 - it has a Buschur 16g (still don't know what that means if that's a small big evo 3 ?), walbro 255lph fuel pump, act 2600 clutch, intake, 3" test pipe, MBC, Adjustable Cam Gears, Upper Inc. Piping, 1G BOV, and boost + a&f gauges.

If I got that, I thought of first investing in a FMIC, then upgrade the injectors to RC 550s and getting a safc II or the datalogger thing via a palm pilot.

What do you guys think ?
Thanks...

I think you should search or start you own thread. Dont hijack this guys MBC thread to get you own answers.





I had a MBC for along time and didnt mind popping the hood here and there. I just recently bought a Profec B spec I and I love it. It doesnt do anything super fancy but it does what I want and was cheap. 250.00

Michael

 

[TurBoGs-T]

I think you should search or start you own thread. Dont hijack this guys MBC thread to get you own answers.

This is his thread.

 

[czech09]

I think you should search or start you own thread. Dont hijack this guys MBC thread to get you own answers.





I had a MBC for along time and didnt mind popping the hood here and there. I just recently bought a Profec B spec I and I love it. It doesnt do anything super fancy but it does what I want and was cheap. 250.00

Michael

:: this is my thread - but thanks for the response anyways

 

[DSMJim]

The good thing about electronic boost controllers is they can operate on a push pull basis on an external wastegate. This allows the gate to say closed longer and open faster closer to the point of maximum boost. A manual boost controller still allows the gate to open partially half way to the maximum boost level which slows spool up and power through the mid part of the power band. On an internal wastegate an electronic boost controller does not really help that much because they can't push-pull to open the gate faster. But they do keep it closed a little longer which builds more mid range boost but not like an external gate.

On an EVO 8 an electronic boost controller was replaced over a manual boost controller and the boost was left at the same level. The car was dynoed and it produced the same peak HP and Torque numbers just as it should. However the mid range on the way upto the peak boost level there was a huge difference in the power band. Believe it or not this is not BS and I too was surprised to see the difference. It's all because the gate is kept closed longer and opened quicker though use of a good electronic boost controller.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Anyway toy around with that it's pretty cool to me. I have had both manual and electronic and on my external gate I noticed boost was better controlled and built faster under the exact same circumstances just switching from on to the other. I'm running an EVC 1 and manual was a Turbosmart Boost-T (which is a normal bleeder valve) when my EVC was not running properly a while back. (I had to change the dip switches on it from internal to external gate and wasn't sure how at the time, thats all.)

Some may call it BS but decide for yourself. I have had both and would never go back to a manual but thats my personal experience.

 

[TurBoGs-T]

You can always count on Jim for the nitty gritty details.

 

[czech09]

The good thing about electronic boost controllers is they can operate on a push pull basis on an external wastegate. This allows the gate to say closed longer and open faster closer to the point of maximum boost. A manual boost controller still allows the gate to open partially half way to the maximum boost level which slows spool up and power through the mid part of the power band. On an internal wastegate an electronic boost controller does not really help that much because they can't push-pull to open the gate faster. But they do keep it closed a little longer which builds more mid range boost but not like an external gate.

On an EVO 8 an electronic boost controller was replaced over a manual boost controller and the boost was left at the same level. The car was dynoed and it produced the same peak HP and Torque numbers just as it should. However the mid range on the way upto the peak boost level there was a huge difference in the power band. Believe it or not this is not BS and I too was surprised to see the difference. It's all because the gate is kept closed longer and opened quicker though use of a good electronic boost controller.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Anyway toy around with that it's pretty cool to me. I have had both manual and electronic and on my external gate I noticed boost was better controlled and built faster under the exact same circumstances just switching from on to the other. I'm running an EVC 1 and manual was a Turbosmart Boost-T (which is a normal bleeder valve) when my EVC was not running properly a while back. (I had to change the dip switches on it from internal to external gate and wasn't sure how at the time, thats all.)

So all in all the electronic boost controller provides the advantage of getting the power unleashed out of one's car quicker (which would mean possibly faster e/t's etc) ? Is that what you're saying ? Could you provide me with a Cliffnotes summary of your reply ::? Thanks very detailed

 

[boostedinaz]

:: this is my thread - but thanks for the response anyways

Sorry, I ate paint chips as a child.

Michael

 

[98RedGs]

So all in all the electronic boost controller provides the advantage of getting the power unleashed out of one's car quicker (which would mean possibly faster e/t's etc) ? Is that what you're saying ? Could you provide me with a Cliffnotes summary of your reply ::? Thanks very detailed

What he's basically saying is that he got better results with the EBC.

 

[DSMJim]

What he's basically saying is that he got better results with the EBC.

Yeah pretty well. I just found my car spooled faster and harder and control from creep, spike and other crappy situations was pretty well taken away totally with a electronic boost controller vs. a manual setup.

Besides they are cheap as hell too. Just incase you wanna see what I'm running and how much it will cost for you to buy... (I know ebay links are frowned upon but it's case and point here...)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479106010&category=33742

Uses Low and High settings. Also has a Volume button and knob that lets you adjust your boost to whatever you wnat. I have low 15psi, High 20psi, and Volume at 23psi for the track.

 

[ohio98eclipse]

mine looks better !! avcr all the way. Maybe one day ill figure out how to use more than 2 options on it since no one i know in ohio has a avcr and i cant understand the damn manual its all jibberish to me

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

The good thing about electronic boost controllers is they can operate on a push pull basis on an external wastegate. This allows the gate to say closed longer and open faster closer to the point of maximum boost. A manual boost controller still allows the gate to open partially half way to the maximum boost level which slows spool up and power through the mid part of the power band. On an internal wastegate an electronic boost controller does not really help that much because they can't push-pull to open the gate faster. But they do keep it closed a little longer which builds more mid range boost but not like an external gate.

On an EVO 8 an electronic boost controller was replaced over a manual boost controller and the boost was left at the same level. The car was dynoed and it produced the same peak HP and Torque numbers just as it should. However the mid range on the way upto the peak boost level there was a huge difference in the power band. Believe it or not this is not BS and I too was surprised to see the difference. It's all because the gate is kept closed longer and opened quicker though use of a good electronic boost controller.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Anyway toy around with that it's pretty cool to me. I have had both manual and electronic and on my external gate I noticed boost was better controlled and built faster under the exact same circumstances just switching from on to the other. I'm running an EVC 1 and manual was a Turbosmart Boost-T (which is a normal bleeder valve) when my EVC was not running properly a while back. (I had to change the dip switches on it from internal to external gate and wasn't sure how at the time, thats all.)

Some may call it BS but decide for yourself. I have had both and would never go back to a manual but thats my personal experience.

nice try, but all that shows to me is that they were running a leaky boost controller. on a track pass yes there CAN be a difference in the time it takes the gate to open, but this wont show on a dyno since you start out of boost. the difference is in the boost drop-off between gears, simple logic would point to that NOT showing on a dyno.

on a side note, agile can't tune a 4g63 to save their lives anyways, that dyno is a joke as far as i'm concerned.

 

[JZ 97 SS 1500]

The two best units for the money are the Turbosmart E-boost and Greddy Profec-B. Currently running a Profec B on the test Supra making 760+rwhp but will be going to the E-boost on my personal 700+ rwhp Supra, since it will control water/alky injection and also doubles as a boost gauge. A bleeder or even a ball spring manual is hard to compare to a EBC in spool time.

Jose

 

[temfate]

I too run a AVCR, I'd have to say I didn't notice much difference in power between it and a mbc, but it's features are awesome. As has been stated, no boost creep problems, no spike (these are handled by a auto-learning mode built into it), boost setup per gear/rpm, feedback settings (you set how often it measures and adjusts boost), two levels with easy access to both, plus a scramble boost (temporary boost settable in user defined time lengths, mine is +2psi for 45seconds)...

Also it monitors rpm, speed, soleniod duty cycle, injector duty cycle (not at the same time as rpm), boost, and throttle pos... It's pretty nice, got mine cheap off eBay for $300 (local pickup).

It comes down to what you want out of the car. If you want ultimate tunability get a electronic one, if you just want fast and cheap get a manual.

 

[Defiant]

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1997/11/19971128.txt/10.html

 

[temfate]

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1997/11/19971128.txt/10.html

That is an awesome idea. It's much better than the MBC's people keep shelling out too much for. However it doesn't filter the creep or spike. I wonder if there is any easy way to do that without the electronic ones.

Basically you need to watch the pressure, and when it exceeds it's threshold open the wastegate accordingly. How to implement that cheap I don't know. Or would the factory BS's take care of this?