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Which clutch kit for DD AWD?

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South Bend SS TZ-Series Clutch is what i think im going with

I would have to agree that the SS-Series pressure plate with the TZ-Series clutch disk combination would be a good setup for your application for street use.

South Bend Clutch offers a few pressure plates to choose from, including a custom high-capacity pressure plate that is intended for higher HP applications.

These are classified as:

HD Series Pressure Plate (Stock style pressure plate)
SS Series Pressure Plate (~2200# pressure plate)
SS-X Series Pressure Plate (~2900# custom High Capacity pressure plate newly designed in October 2010)

I normally only recommend the SS-Series or the SS-X Series pressure plates for the AWD DSM application as we are a bit more abusive on our clutches than most vehicle applications. I would only recommend the HD-Series pressure plate for stock applications.


As for the clutch disk lineup offered by South Bend Clutch, there are several friction materials offered including the following:

Rally Series - Organic Disk
TZ-Series - Kevlar full-face disk
OFE-Series - Organic/Feramic dual-friction full-face disk
TZ/FE-Series - Custom Kevlar/Feramic dual-friction full-face disk
Cer/TZ = Custom Ceramic/Kevlar dual-friction 6-puck
FE-Series = Feramic 6-puck

Normally, I recommend and offer the TZ-Series, the OFE-Series and TZ/FE-Series disks to DSM'ers that are street driving/drag racing their cars and only recommend the 6-puck clutches for vehicles that do not do regular hard launches as there is a higher chance of transmission failure from a super-aggressive clutch disk.

As well, all of these pressure plates and clutch disk options can be used on a stock flywheel. I would recommend using an aluminum flywheel only with the organic disk, or kevlar disk for street driving only. I would recommend using a steel lightweight flywheel with any of the disk combinations listed above for having a longer service life of the flywheel friction surface. The feramic and kevlar clutch disks have the potential of warping the replacable friction surface on aluminum flywheels due to the design of the flywheel. If you are running an aluminum flywheel with the kevlar disk, I would try to prevent overheating the clutch as there is the likelyhood of warping the flywheel friction surface, resulting in uneven clutch disk wear or premature failure.

As for clutch kits, I would be happy to help you decide what would be best for your car, based upon your driving style and power levels so you end up with a clutch that will last a long time and meet your needs.

If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me!

Thanks,

TMZ
 
on my DD 90 gsx i have a act2600 and stock flywheel i love the feel...changing the clutch master and slave cylinder is a must my clutch blew them both out two days later its a stiff feel but it grabs good, it worth it in the long run!
 
I would have to agree that the SS-Series pressure plate with the TZ-Series clutch disk combination would be a good setup for your application for street use.

South Bend Clutch offers a few pressure plates to choose from, including a custom high-capacity pressure plate that is intended for higher HP applications.

These are classified as:

HD Series Pressure Plate (Stock style pressure plate)
SS Series Pressure Plate (~2200# pressure plate)
SS-X Series Pressure Plate (~2900# custom High Capacity pressure plate newly designed in October 2010)

I normally only recommend the SS-Series or the SS-X Series pressure plates for the AWD DSM application as we are a bit more abusive on our clutches than most vehicle applications. I would only recommend the HD-Series pressure plate for stock applications.

Thanks again, Tim!


As for the clutch disk lineup offered by South Bend Clutch, there are several friction materials offered including the following:

Rally Series - Organic Disk
TZ-Series - Kevlar full-face disk
OFE-Series - Organic/Feramic dual-friction full-face disk
TZ/FE-Series - Custom Kevlar/Feramic dual-friction full-face disk
Cer/TZ = Custom Ceramic/Kevlar dual-friction 6-puck
FE-Series = Feramic 6-puck

Normally, I recommend and offer the TZ-Series, the OFE-Series and TZ/FE-Series disks to DSM'ers that are street driving/drag racing their cars and only recommend the 6-puck clutches for vehicles that do not do regular hard launches as there is a higher chance of transmission failure from a super-aggressive clutch disk.

As well, all of these pressure plates and clutch disk options can be used on a stock flywheel. I would recommend using an aluminum flywheel only with the organic disk, or kevlar disk for street driving only. I would recommend using a steel lightweight flywheel with any of the disk combinations listed above for having a longer service life of the flywheel friction surface. The feramic and kevlar clutch disks have the potential of warping the replacable friction surface on aluminum flywheels due to the design of the flywheel. If you are running an aluminum flywheel with the kevlar disk, I would try to prevent overheating the clutch as there is the likelyhood of warping the flywheel friction surface, resulting in uneven clutch disk wear or premature failure.

As for clutch kits, I would be happy to help you decide what would be best for your car, based upon your driving style and power levels so you end up with a clutch that will last a long time and meet your needs.

If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me!

Thanks,

TMZ

This man speaks the truth! Based on his recommendations, I bought the SBC SS pressure plate and TZ disk through TMZPerformance and I could not be happier with this combination!

Pedal pressure is firmer than stock without being overwhelming even in LA stop and go traffic. The full-face Kevlar clutch disk is extremely streetable, it doesn't grab or chatter even when cold and best of all, it holds my current power level (~375 awhp) all day long without the slightest hint of slipping.
 
Yeah I'm in the same boat trying to decide on a clutch.. I am shooting for a 500whp DD but it's gonna take time to get there. I'm over 250 right now and stock clutch won't hold much longer. I'm near seattle so if you all been there you know how bad I-5 traffic can be. So what are some pro's and cons for the ACT 2600 with street disc, and the SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kit??
 
Yeah I'm in the same boat trying to decide on a clutch.. I am shooting for a 500whp DD but it's gonna take time to get there. I'm over 250 right now and stock clutch won't hold much longer. I'm near seattle so if you all been there you know how bad I-5 traffic can be. So what are some pro's and cons for the ACT 2600 with street disc, and the SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kit??

If you're car is a DD and you're stuck in traffic a lot then you are going to hate the ACT 2600 even with a street disc. I've been there done that. ACT 2100 is a bit better but even it can get annoying at times, that and it wont hold enough torque for your goals.

If you wanna go SBC then a SS-TZ or SS-OFE is your best choice.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/381326-south-bend-clutch-info-thread.html
 
I personally loved the SB clutch in my tibby before it went out, probably what will be going into my snow rally 1g.

In my 3g I have the Clutchmaster FX200 and Fidanza flywheel. Pricey, but an INCREDIBLE combo. Clutch is soft but grabs/revs really hard. It's taken over 60k miles of autox/street abuse and still has yet to slip on me.

act2600 vs fidanza 3.2?

I personally have never driven/ridden with someone with a fidanza clutch, but the reviews on the 3g community show it to be no good.
 
I've had good personal experience with the ACT2600/street disk in daily driving situations.
Yes the pedal does take some effort as mentioned, but you'll get used to it.
I've seen people have very good luck with the SouthBend and Fidanza offerings as stated and also the XTD if you're on a very tight budget.
Many of us are spoiled by modern day hydraulic clutch systems. These heavy DSM clutches aren't anymore effort than older cars with a cable operated "strong" clutch
 
So either a ACT 2600 with street disc or The SBC SS-OFE. I've seen several places where people complained about the 2600 breaking on them, but not a lot of reviews on the SBC. Might have to start a Poll and see what people think is better quality.
 
i have competition clutch stage 4's in my 2G awd(stock flywheel) and my 1G awd( with cc lightweight flywheel + welded center diff) ive dd both cars they both go to school and back hour and a half drive simcoe to stoney creek and to work and back only a 15min backroad drive, they are bit choppy taking off slow but dives beautful, zero slippage under full boost, pedal feel is alot harder than stock but you get used to it after a while and ive put over 100000km on my 2g before having to replace it (highway k tho back and forth to trade school) my 1g is still in the car but motor is toast it has approx 25000km on it. i live in the country so driving on long back roads if fine. i would recommend trying them
 
I'll throw in my support for the ACT 2600.

I'm sitting in the 500whp ballpark and my 2600 still feels perfect, even after an accidental 3rd gear launch attempt that caused me to smoke up the area in clutch smoke and smell clutch for 2 days after it. Still took it to the track, no issues, has had even more beating since then. Been in the car for 3 years. I have no doubt it still has a decent amount of life left. No slipping ever.

pedal pressure is fine, it's no more than the typical bigger truck's stock clutches
 
I'll throw in my support for the ACT 2600.

I'm sitting in the 500whp ballpark and my 2600 still feels perfect, even after an accidental 3rd gear launch attempt that caused me to smoke up the area in clutch smoke and smell clutch for 2 days after it. Still took it to the track, no issues, has had even more beating since then. Been in the car for 3 years. I have no doubt it still has a decent amount of life left. No slipping ever.

pedal pressure is fine, it's no more than the typical bigger truck's stock clutches


Well guessing the 2600 might be right for me then. I have til tax time before I can get it so Thanks for all the input guys.
 
Looks like ill be going with the XTD stage 4 unsprung. I havent heard anything bad about it...and for 150. i could put 2 of them in and still be cheaper then anything else
 
I love my stage 4 feramic south bend clutch, I havenbt had any trouble had a good summer of 400 hp at the track broke the trans and the clutch looked great perfect even wear
 
Im using ACT 2600 pressure plate with ACT 6 puck disc and XTD flywheel, 348awhp without problems

wow that setup is what i had at first I couldnt stand the chatter from the 6 puck if you didnt drop the clutch. I reccommend the 2100 for daily driving but it wont stand to daily launches just daily driving with an occasional spirited drive.
 
Hi,

I called ACT a while ago, asking about 2100 vs 2600 for an AWD Talon with an E316G, DSMLink, and exhaust. They suggested the 2100. I asked them exactly how they rated their clutches, and their response was: they torque a representative unit up with a torque wrench and see when it slips. So, if they say 320 ft-lbs, that means it went from locked to unlocked at 320 ft-lbs. That means the static friction limit was 320 ft-lbs, and the sliding/dynamic friction will be lower. If 320 ft-lbs works for most people with limited mods, that tells me that limited mods = <320 ft-lbs, regardless of the numerous dyno sheets showing more.

They also said the stock clutch was supposed to be good for about 275 ft-lbs. My DSMLink'd and 16psi but otherwise stock engine (no turbo or exhaust yet, it only has <20k on it, but soon, soon) will twist past its stock (original!) clutch pretty easily. So, moving to 320 ft-lbs sounds like a pretty marginal upgrade. That says the 400 ft-lb 2600 is probably the unit I would recommend for any modified AWD application.

A cautionary note: I found someone, somewhere on the web, that did some destructive testing on various vintages of DSM transmissions, and the punchline was that at about 450 (real, measured) ft-lbs, things start to go seriously wrong pretty quickly. Using a 320 ft-lb clutch rather than a 400 ft-lb clutch was enough of a difference to keep transmission life close to stock, compared to significantly shortened (depending on your driving).
 
I had the ACT 2600 in my '97 GSX and I loved it. Just don't get stuck in shore traffic... haha
 
I made this thread long ago. I just wanted to give an update that I have put SB SS-TZ in two of my AWD DSMS now because I will never be able to use anything else other then SB again. :) I'v had act 2100 and 2600 and they don't come close to how great SB feels and performs. Not to mention SB seems to take much more of a beating.
 
I got a SBC SS-TZ/FE and its softer than a stage 1 exedy which is supposed to be a bit softer than a 2100.
 
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