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Where I'm at and where I should be going: 16G AWD content

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derekste

Probationary Member
9
0
Jul 11, 2007
St. Charles, Illinois
Hi all,

Just wanted to post an intro and get some advice about what directions I should be heading with my car.

Current setup:
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Stock 6bolt bottom end
Big 16g(?)
HKS 272/272 Cams
3G Lifters
Evo8 MAF
3" exhaust (with HFC)
FIC 650CC Injectors
Walboro 190lph Fuel Pump
MBC set at ~19psi
2.5" AMS Hard upper intercooler pipe
2.5" Slowboyracing TB elbow
Stock sidemount
DSMlink tuned 1/3/08 at AMS

probably a few other things that aren't important... This setup got me here:
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I feel like I should be making a little closer to the 300whp mark with this set up. I've tried running more boost, but the car likes to knock at anything above 20psi (I know its not phantom knock because it goes away when I run racegas).

I was at the track about a weekend ago and my best ET was 13.6 (winter tires... doh) and best trap was about 104mph.

Besides a frontmount (it's in the near future) what else could really make this car shine? Do the numbers seem reasonable or should I be making a little bit more power? Car hits full boost at about 3600 RPM in 4th gear.

Any thoughts appreciated! :talon::thumb:
 
I think your stock intercooler is what is holding you back the most right now. Otherwise our cars are similar in mods. I put down 300awhp on 2.5" exhaust, and just this weekend I swapped a full 3" turbo back, and I must say, theres a nice diference in power. The car used to spike to 21 psi and settle at 19..... now it's just 22psi and I love itROFL What are your AFRs like, and how much timing are you running?
 
i agree, a fmic is in your best interest. and hey they look cool LOL but overall your definately headed in the right direction
 
Yeah FMIC should be your next purchase, thats whats causeing your knock when you turn up the boost any higher.
 
+1 on a front mount needed.
My car put down 294 AWHP with the stock cams on 91 octane.
I never dynoed it with the stock side mount but I did take it down the quarter and knock was horrible in the California summer.

I also think that 272s are a bit much for a big 16G, they are for sure better than stock but their optimum power band is a little higher up the rpm range than a B16G is comfortable. I think the 272s better match a 20G or larger turbo but that is just my personal opinion. I'm going to get 264s within the year and see what they do for my torque and power curves.
 
+1 for fmic

Sounds like all you need to do is put a frount mount on with some meth injection (anything over 20psi hit the meth) and you will break that 300whp mark. Be able to pull more timing and push more boost with meth, with less knock ;)
 
thanks for all the replies, and confirming what I thought about the FMIC.

not sure how much timing I'm running during spool/up top, but I do know that I am around 11:1 AFR at 6k and possibly dipping in to the 10s at redline (AMS tuned it this way because of lousy knock!!)

I know the cams probably hurt my spool a bit, but is there anything I can be doing to help that out a little more? maybe add a little more timing during spool to get those EGTs up a tad?
 
You are flowing WAY too much for a stock intercooler.. Get a front mount, for sure for sure.. You are probably heat soaking your IC and not getting the flow you need for the mods you have..
 
You should look into a fmic. We have almost identical mods minus the fmic,and i did 12.4@111 with a crappy tune and grannyshifting *not doubleclutching like you should.*JK LOL
 
the FMIC will probably help with knock, i would asume you are geting knock ### of heat soak?
 
thanks for all the replies, and confirming what I thought about the FMIC.

not sure how much timing I'm running during spool/up top, but I do know that I am around 11:1 AFR at 6k and possibly dipping in to the 10s at redline (AMS tuned it this way because of lousy knock!!)

I know the cams probably hurt my spool a bit, but is there anything I can be doing to help that out a little more? maybe add a little more timing during spool to get those EGTs up a tad?

272s are good to max out your 16g. . . It's a good choice and you actually will have a broader power band with 272s, if you're capable/not afraid of reving to the rev limiter.

ONE adjustable cam gear on the exhaust and retard the cam p to 5 degrees should net EXCELLENT spool speed. Your idle will lope like a sexy lapdance. . .err, suffer a little.

Retarding timing actually increases exhaust manifold temps (good for spool). More heat because the time between the exhaust valve opening and flame front burn is shorter. Some timing retard won't hurt on spool up. But I wouldn't worry about it. Cam timing helps more and a 16g isn't but so sluggish on spool speed as is. Note: slower boost response because of a cam upgrade is 90% because the engine flows better and is bleading off more boost. This means that you may be reaching a certain boost later, but you're flowing and putting down more hp earlier.
 
272s are good to max out your 16g. . . It's a good choice and you actually will have a broader power band with 272s, if you're capable/not afraid of reving to the rev limiter.

ONE adjustable cam gear on the exhaust and retard the cam p to 5 degrees should net EXCELLENT spool speed. Your idle will lope like a sexy lapdance. . .err, suffer a little.

Retarding timing actually increases exhaust manifold temps (good for spool). More heat because the time between the exhaust valve opening and flame front burn is shorter. Some timing retard won't hurt on spool up. But I wouldn't worry about it. Cam timing helps more and a 16g isn't but so sluggish on spool speed as is. Note: slower boost response because of a cam upgrade is 90% because the engine flows better and is bleading off more boost. This means that you may be reaching a certain boost later, but you're flowing and putting down more hp earlier.

Quick question,When you retard the exh cam do you have to just loosen adjustment bolts and reposition the gear,or take the t-belt off adjust then do timing again? The person I got my 272s and gears from said to put the exh cam retard 4* but i just zeroed them out because I didn't know what it would do.
 
you loosen them up, and rotate the crank pully VERY SLIGHTLY untill you get it where you need it, then tighten to spec, and put the crank at TDC #1 and check everything.. its such a small adjustment when moving from the crank, that its easy to pass the mark.. and only do 1 cam at a time.. its best to have 2 people.. its hard to do with one..
 
basically, you are leaving the cams and everything in place, but when you rotate the whole timing assembly, the cam that you loosened will not move, but the gear will, allowing you to adjust it...
 
Ok thx I didn't know if would throw my timing off,so i just left it at 0 because i was kinda scared it would mess something up.
 
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