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When floored when I let off gas peddle car shuts off

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97_GST_Spyder

Probationary Member
3
0
Jun 5, 2013
Littlestown, Pennsylvania
I have 97 eclipse gst Spyder FWD turbo... When I got the car bearing went on turbo replaced it with another t25 everything went well now when I give it a lot of gas then switch gears car dies on me starts right back up but only does it when I get on it only mods that I know of atm are his BoV and spectre cai
 
I am having the same problem, but only i will do like a third gear pull and let off at 5k rpms and go to
neutral and it will drop all the way to 0 rpms and shut off. not when i shift. i do not have a massive boost leak either. and my bov is recirculated.
 
Well think I am gonna start off at the BoV after that will check for boost leak

Thanks for replys
 
I am having the same problem, but only i will do like a third gear pull and let off at 5k rpms and go to
neutral and it will drop all the way to 0 rpms and shut off. not when i shift. i do not have a massive boost leak either. and my bov is recirculated.

Same principle going to neutral as a gear shift, the clutch being depressed allows the motor to go to idle in gear or in neutral...

Also, your car is a demon, I've tried to help as best I can and I don't know if its tests not being performed correctly or the car really is that screwed up? Hard to tell over the net...

Either way op, if your most recent stuff done to the car was turbo related, it is very likely a coupler leak, or while you guys put everything back together you and your buddy thought it would be cool to not hook the bov back up.
 
I had a problem very similar to this when I put a new bov on still recirculated. well I put a weaker spring in it and my problem was gone. hope this helps.
 
my bov has a bolt on the top that says tight and loose. i have it set as tight as it will go, i figured that would hold the most boost. correct me if im wrong. but should i loosen it a little?
 
To address Faulkners question,

First off it sounds like you are making progress, or at least eliminating possibilities, good job!

Properly adjusting your BOV is very important.

Remember when the throttle plate slams shut the pressurized air that was destined for the intake manifold and is currently residing in your upper inter cooler pipe needs to go somewhere. Instead of going back through the turbo which would would vilently reverse the rotation of the turbo (aka compressor surge), the compressed air passes through the BOV and (hopefully) is recirculated back into your short ram air intake.

BOV spring adjustment and why it's important. If the spring is too loose, the BOV will always be leaking a small amount of air once the system gets to a certain psi. If the spring is too tight, then the BOV will not release comressed air until it gets to a certain PSI. If the BOV is not releasing air, then its not performing it duty and the compressed air is going back to the turbo and violently reversing its spin. Hopefully you can find a happy medium that lets out very little air while not destroying your turbo.

Bottom line:
If you cruise down the road with, say 5 psi, around 60% throttle and you abruptly drop to 40% throttle enough to where you drop boost. Do you hear turbo chatterflutter? (sounds like cha-cha-cha-cha quickly with decreasing decibels) That sound, while being really cool, is bad. From what I understand, that is your turbo not having fun.

What most people do to adjust their BOV spring is to set it to the highest setting and keep backing it off every time they hear the turbo chatter/flutter

Oh and here is a link where other explain the same thing for greater clarity
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/300739-whats-hard-soft-bov-settings.html

Mine used to do this too..Turns out I had a massive vaccume leak, so I deleted my vac lines and charchol canister, as well as the egr.Fixed

LOL. Don't work, get rid of it! (I've done the same)
 
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