Wheel bearing, a DIY or no?

[Tha Fella Dylan]

I've never done much when it comes to suspension/steering stuff on my car because I thought it wasn't worth the hassle. I have a bad wheel bearing (front driver side-FWD), I was wondering if this is something I can do with basic tools at home or no?

I've read some write ups on here but no one actually says they did it themselves. I noticed you might need a press? Looking for some insight guys to save a couple bucks. If you have done it, is it worth the money saved? Thanks in advance!

 

[DSM1G90]

A lot just get new disc assemblies since the bearings are pressed in the hub.

 

[knochgoon24]

It's best to just get a whole wheel bearing/hub assembly. And you may want to order a spare axle, just in case you can't get the old one free from the hub assembly. They can be an absolute pain to get free when you live in the rust belt.

 

[Tha Fella Dylan]

Pardon me being a dumbass, but isn't that something they sell at the auto parts store or is it seperate pieces? Easy fix or pain in the ass? I don't have many tools but am interested very much in doing this myself.

 

[2literbeatsV8]

I work for a dealership, and watch techs do this at least twice a week. Believe me, unless you have a dedicated press set up for this with a heavy duty hydraulic bottle jack and some very specific size steel tube pieces, I wouldn't try it. Even for some of the techs, its a PITA and several have had the hubs sent out to a machine shop to have it done. Many things can and should be DIY...this is not one of them.

 

[bryanwheat]

I work for a dealership, and watch techs do this at least twice a week. Believe me, unless you have a dedicated press set up for this with a heavy duty hydraulic bottle jack and some very specific size steel tube pieces, I wouldn't try it. Even for some of the techs, its a PITA and several have had the hubs sent out to a machine shop to have it done. Many things can and should be DIY...this is not one of them.

It's only a pain if the axle is seized into the hub. IF it is seized than the biggest press in the world won't get it apart. IT will have to be cut apart. IF the axle is free than it is very simple to do. Once you get the spindle loose and the axle pulled from the spindle than just remove the 4 bolts, hammer the old assembly out, wire wheel rust from inside diameter of spindle, slide new assembly in, install bolts and tighten. There is no press needed for this.

 

[luv2rallye]

It can be a real pain if siezed but here's how you can do it: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-wheel-hub-bearing-removal.html#post151512403

 

[kqodprez]

I'd suggest a nice sized pipe, pb blaster and alot of patience. If I'm not mistaken the axle nut is 32mm. Just changed them on the 99 gst I just sold. Didn't take me to long but the car was mint with no rust....

 

[chinola69]

On our cars the hub/bearing come in one piece so no press is necessary.

Like this

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I have change all four corners and the hub/bearing is fairly simple to change but like stated before the axle will most likely be seized in the hub and your going to have to get a new axle. So if you do get a new axle put a good amount of anti seize on it.

 

[crash89]

On our cars the hub/bearing come in one piece so no press is necessary.

Like this

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I have change all four corners and the hub/bearing is fairly simple to change but like stated before the axle will most likely be seized in the hub and your going to have to get a new axle. So if you do get a new axle put a good amount of anti seize on it.

Exactly!! This whole thread had me boggled.. I was like they bolt on with 4 14mm bolts... 1st gens have a pressed in style hub and can be a bi***.. I believe there is only about an 1/8'' that sits inside the knuckle..

 

[knochgoon24]

Yep, the anti-seize makes it so much easier to replace the next time. I just did a front for the second time, and I didn't even have to hit it with a hammer to get the axle free from the hub.

For the record, I've replaced all 4 or my original wheel bearings: 3 seized to the axle, 1 broke free.

 

[crash89]

Yep, the anti-seize makes it so much easier to replace the next time. I just did a front for the second time, and I didn't even have to hit it with a hammer to get the axle free from the hub.

For the record, I've replaced all 4 or my original wheel bearings: 3 seized to the axle, 1 broke free.

Sucky thing for guys that got their DSMs in snowy places. I got my spyder from California, no rust, no seized axles and its garaged in the winters here in Wisconsin !!!

 

[callofktulu35]

I have to change my fronts and i always thought that you would need a press. But if its just 4 bolts, Hell thats easy.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes it's 4 bolts but the axels are almost always siezed in the hubs so you need a hub puller to press the axel out (see pic here): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/235884-need-help.html#post50449790.

 

[chinola69]

Yes it's 4 bolts but the hubs are almost always siezed in the knuckle arm so you need a hub puller to press them out (see pic here): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/235884-need-help.html#post50449790.

Oh thats right damn rust, I was lazy about it and just bought a used knuckle, also sometimes the abs sensor gets stuck in the knuckle.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Man changed two of those things back to back hit a curb on the snow here in michigan, uggg i knew a bearing job was in need. Save lots of cash when you diy.

 

[SpiderGST]

I thought the N/T ones were pressed?

 

[born2tune]

I guess I am a lucky one, my 95' has lived all across the country according to carfax, and the hubs/axles came off easy when I started the build. maybe it has been reworked 1000 times before it got to me though... plus 1 on the anti-seize!

 

[chinola69]

I thought the N/T ones were pressed?

No suspension wise the turbo and NT share the same parts.

 

[luv2rallye]

... also sometimes the abs sensor gets stuck in the knuckle.

Be careful with that abs sensor. Being plastic and pressed in so tight, they nearly always break trying to get them out. IMHO better off to leave them alone (reuse the knuckle or get one with the abs sensor already in) or be prepared to buy a new sensor.

 

[bryanwheat]

Yes it's 4 bolts but the hubs are almost always siezed in the knuckle arm so you need a hub puller to press them out (see pic here): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/235884-need-help.html#post50449790.

A good 3 lb sledge hammer works just as good.

 

[luv2rallye]

A good 3 lb sledge hammer works just as good.

Sometimes but I've seen too many where even that doesn't break it free. I agree, it's definately worth a try first though. Either way make sure you keep the axel nut on backwards flush with the axel end to keep threads from mushrooming when you bang on it (or use puller).

 

[bryanwheat]

Sometimes but I've seen too many where even that doesn't break it free. I agree, it's definately worth a try first though. Either way make sure you keep the axel nut on backwards flush with the spindle end to keep threads from mushrooming when you bang on it (or use puller).

I am not talking about getting the axle from the hub. I am talking about getting the hub from the spindle.

 

[luv2rallye]

I am not talking about getting the axle from the hub. I am talking about getting the hub from the spindle.

Yes, you're right. A 3 lb hammer works great for that. What you call spindle Mitsubishi (and I) call the knuckle but we're talking the same thing.

Thanks for the correction. I just noticed in my posts 14 & 22 I said it wrong. I was referring to getting the axel (aka driveshaft) out of the hub. Not the axel out of the knuckle arm.

BTW, for Tha Fella Dylan, here is what the hub/bearing assembly looks like for the 2g: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=78775&d=1198915698

 

[Tha Fella Dylan]

Thanks guys. I'll be giving this a try this weekend. Seems easy enough. But about the rust, shouldn't be too bad as I just got some other front end stuff done.