2G Wheel alignment with new suspension

[PrimerPLus]

I finally got my new koni yellows and ground control springs on. I also replaced both front wheel hubs and tie rod ends. Along with a complete rebuild of the drivetrain. So I went in to get my wheels aligned and they said my car is too low to get on the rack and also said my fmic might be in the way too. So I am curious if I should raise my car up some to clear the rack or remove front bumper. I do not have any camber kits and was curious if I should get them before or after going for an alignment?

 

[onefast2gdsm]

@ them saying your car is too low. ive aligned my dsm at work plenty of times with a hunter alignment rack. Theyre just being lazy. I have nothing to pull on the car except the front mount, and as long as its properly mounted it wont hurt anything. I would get a camber kit if you care about it, but as long as they get the toe right front and rear you wont have a problem.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Yes I care about my car .
But I was just wondering if it would be best to get a camber kit before or after alignment. I found a shop that might be able to do it without having to raise it or remove front bumper so we'll see.

 

[nickk90]

They are being lazy. Tell them throw some boards down. they have no problem doing it with Vettes but when you bring in a lowered car they throw a fit about it. I've have 2 places tell me no then I had another that has a lifetime alinement package do it twice then the 3rd time bitched about it and had to get the store manager involved.

 

[snowborder714]

As for getting a camber kit, you can approach this two ways. The first is to wait until after the alignment to see how much of an adjustment you need out of the kit. The second is to just get one now and then have them adjust it while it's on the rack.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Ok I took it to the shop today with the bumper off and they were able to get it so they can make the alignment. However they said it is unable to be aligned due to the following issues:

1) Needs Front and Rear upper control arms - adjustable so can do camber
2) Rear control arm spacers - I am assuming this is for camber adjustment as well.
3) Lower front control arms look worn.

So can anyone point me to the ones that are tried and true.

 

[snowborder714]

Did they happen to give you the current alignment specs so you know what camber kit to purchase for the front?

For the rear, you can just get longer bolts and some washers to stack between the control arm and the body. This will probably need done more than the front.

 

[PrimerPLus]

No they did not give me any measurements just said I need those items before they will do it.

He gave me this number and said Napa will reference it out. But I could not find what item this is.

72170

 

[snowborder714]

Well, that's a bad alignment shop. Now you don't know what your current alignment is to know how much to correct it, if you need to at all. For example, running -2° of front camber isn't bad, even though they'll tell you it's out of factory spec. It will make handling corners much better.

Yup, that number references a discontinued SPC part number for upper control arms.

Here's what ExtremePSI offers for camber kits:
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

You can do some searching on here to find what the most recommended front kits are though. Keep in mind you're looking to reduce (add positive camber, move more towards 0° than away) front and rear camber, although rear will need it much more than the front will.

 

[onefast2gdsm]

Lol @ this alignment shop. Bring it to a goodyear. They are offering a 3 year alignment plan for only 169.99, which includes 8 alignments. They will do the alignemnt check and print you out specs so you know what youre looking at.

 

[PrimerPLus]

I live in Alaska, no goodyear centers.
We got, JTS, Midas, random shops, a couple performance shops
But JTS, Midas, and my local performance shop would not do it. I took it a local shop, which the performance shop sources their alignments too...

 

[PrimerPLus]

Well after searching, I have decided on the ingal ball joints for the front and stm's rear bolt and washers kit. But I guess I can't really order either of these without knowing how much I need to change.... Lol

 

[snowborder714]

The bolt and washer kit can be, just not installed yet.

If it was me, I'd go with the ±1.5° front kit. This should get you back into the factory range (as long as you didn't really slam the car) and then will also allow you to add some negative camber in the future if you so wish to do. You should have no need to give the car 3° positive camber in the front, as then you'd be way into the positive range (past factory spec).

 

[AK Maniak]

I have heard good things about Quality Tune Alaska. They are on Tudor by the Lake Otis intersection. Let me know if you end up coming to Anchorage.

 

[PrimerPLus]

I will Check them out! Going to wait until I get my camber kits first.
OMW to anchor town right now.

 

[jtmcinder]

Funky, adjustable front upper ball-joints are not the best option on an overly-lowered 2G that is likely to be driven on bad roads. Adjustable eye-bolts are likely to result in more available bump-travel for a given amount of camber.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Here it is lowered. It is sitting waiting for my fuel pump to arrive.

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Do you think I should raise it? How does it look?

 

[AK Maniak]

Funky, adjustable front upper ball-joints are not the best option on an overly-lowered 2G that is likely to be driven on bad roads. Adjustable eye-bolts are likely to result in more available bump-travel for a given amount of camber.

While I am completely ignorant in regards to the ball joints Alaska for the most part has pretty decent roads. At least compared to the parts of Arizona I lived in.

Is there any advantage to those ball joints assuming the roads aren't rough?