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2G What's a good clutch?

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bmw335ikt

Proven Member
228
16
Sep 23, 2015
Crown Point, Indiana
What's a good clutch for a 97 Gsx? For street use. Act, competition, fidanza, clutch masters, exedy?
It's a street build I'll be running the 68hta turbo by forced performance

Thanks
 
Ive heard great things about competition clutch and southbend. My brother runs a stage 4 making 433awhp/382awtq and it has held up. Ive heard great things about ACT pressure plates, but not so much for there clutch disks. However, I would honestly go with southbend as dsmkauai said. They actually use an exedy disk and thats what im going to be using. I will be installing my ss tz/b shortly. Sure they cost a little more money, but you get what you pay for. I would contact tim zimmer at tmz performance and he will aid you in picking the right clutch for your application
 
Just like the first guy suggested, southbend has pretty good setups. I emailed tim my plans for the car along with my power setup and he recommended a pressure plate and disc. That simple!
 
I'd be really careful with that. Lots of people make recommendations on shot they've never ran. If your going to launch the car get a puck disc.

If you get a street disc make sure it's at least 2600lbs. FYI a stock Mitsubishi pressure plate is~2200lbs, and is the best quality pressure plate available. They use exedy parts. Act used to use exedy, now they use seeco, which is cheap junk. Don't know who sbc and comp uses, but I would find out before I spend any money.
 
Why I love my Southbend b seires disc. Great for street and strip, handles 5-6k launches with 10-12psi boost no problem for me. ;) And even better you can get the disc religned for $100, can't beat that. I've used act and spec and hands down Southbend beats them. Has a really good like stock peddle feel and hasn't let me down yet. I'm using the ss/x pp and b-seires disc along with a act street lite flywheel, in both my gst and gvr4.
 
Ive got 41k miles on my act 2600 now. 20k miles of that was on a sprung street disk before it was wore out and began to slip.The next 21k was on a sprung 6 puck and that is also ready to be changed.Pressure plate is still the original.Its seen more launches and wot pulls than i can count and power probably somewhere around 4-450 is my guess.Thats real damn good if you ask me. When this clutch went in so did a new pivot ball,fork,mitsu tob,properly surfaced flywheel,and the proper engagement adjustments.Ive never once had a negative issue with this clutch.That being said the key to a good service life of any clutch(regardless of manufacturer) under the abuse we hand them is the other parts in the system i listed.You cant put a new clutch in and neglect everything else being 20+ years old and expect it to give you a good service life.The whole system needs to work,if something in that system isnt up to the task it will fail prematurely. Everytime someone gets on here and spouts off that so and so's clutch is garbage because it failed at 3,000 miles, theres probably a real good chance all the other parts in that clutch system were ignored.This is not a ACT sales pitch, just food for thought, choose whatever you want.just dont ignore the the other parts with wear and tear on them.
 
This subject has been beaten to DEATH LOL ACT now makes a decent clutch. Old style ACT pressure plates would break fingers if the fork was overthrown and I have experienced this first hand.

I now run an ACT 2600 PP and 6 puck unsprung clutch with a CC flywheel. Good bite, could hold way more power then I'm currently making. HOWEVER, feels harsh on the trans and can sometimes get annoying just shifting normally. Also, I'm on my 2nd OEM throw out bearing and it's already sounding like a sewing machine but I digress.
 
This subject has been beaten to DEATH LOL ACT now makes a decent clutch. Old style ACT pressure plates would break fingers if the fork was overthrown and I have experienced this first hand.

I now run an ACT 2600 PP and 6 puck unsprung clutch with a CC flywheel. Good bite, could hold way more power then I'm currently making. HOWEVER, feels harsh on the trans and can sometimes get annoying just shifting normally. Also, I'm on my 2nd OEM throw out bearing and it's already sounding like a sewing machine but I digress.

No, that's not true at all. The fingers may be better, but the shoe (which is the most important part) is junk. The cover and shoe both come from seeco, same place that makes all the cheap ebay clutches. The cover is about half the thickness of the old exedy brand parts, and the shoe is also much thinner. It does not take any heat at all to ruin the pp. I had about a dozen mid 11's passes and 1000 street miles with a street disc and a newer act2900 and the pp is JUNK. Large cracks and extremely warped. My older exedy bases pressure plate is a little warped. after 10yrs of use and pulled out of someones junk pile. I've ran 7 puck discs through it and it's still useable. I'm going to have it surfaced and use it some more!
 
I'm running a ACT 2600 with street disc and fidenza lightened flywheel. Everything is holding up good for 15,000 miles now, so no complaints. I've ran ACT clutches since early 2000's. Back in the day they weren't as reliable as now, so you'll find all kinds of mixed reviews about them.

Also, I should add I'm not out beating the car on a daily basis. So what I use might hold up a hell of a lot longer than a track car.
 
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Well I stand corrected I suppose but then again, I don't beat the crap out of the clutch. Easy shifts usually with a low RPM slip if I launch. I'm thinking of going southbend or a different setup once it breaks anyway.
 
I think I have some pictures posted on the subject. It really sucks. I wish they could continue to make a decent product by combining the new spring with the old cover and shoe. That would be a killer PP, but nope they have to bone us in the name of profits. #actsucks. Their discs are pretty good though, the 4 puck unsprung is one of the highest power holding discs out there. I did have one spit friction material off it though. I truly think a 2600 4 puck is enough clutch for 9's in a street car.

I haven't had my hands on a comp or sbc. I almost refuse to buy a sbc, because they charge a premium, but yet they won't answer the phone, or return an email.

If it was me looking for a clutch for a 68hta car, it would be:

1.) old type 2600 and a street disc if there was limited launching
2.) New mitsu or exedy factory replacement pp, and a ACT sprung 6 puck, for lots of hits.

or the super cheap route:
3. xtd stage 4 with a sprung 6 puck.

Everything else is too much of a compromise. If you want a street disc, you need 2600lbs of clamp load. The old act's were rock solid IMHO. I don't know about any of the other brands, but if they are not 2600lbs or so, and from exedy parts its a waste of money. If you want a light pedal and brutal durability, the stock pp and 6 puck cannot be beat.

I don't think much of the Kevlar friction materials, it's an insulator, so it doesn't shed heat. It keeps it in and keeps it in the pp shoe and flywheel. That's bad, it also generally has less friction than a standard disc.

I also don't think much of the segmented iron/ feramic bs. It' seems way to fragile. I don't see anyone racing the car raving about the stuff.

I'll say my views are much different than others, as I'll sacrifice some streetability for the ability to go rounds.

I'll also like to remind everyone to think about what we are doing here. We are trying to put 300+hp though a 9" diaphragm clutch (light duty). The good old boys with muscle cars and such needed 11" and 12" long style (heavy duty) clutches with counterweights and 3200lbs of clamp to hold down similar power.
 
I've had two act disks lock to pp and fw and They were both 6 puck, stg 3. Neither were abused terribly either. Neither in eclipse tho but I'll never buy another act for anything.
 
Thanks for that @bastarddsm I'll have to keep it in mind if my current clutch fails. What is the reasoning behind going with a sprung clutch instead of unsprung? I know a lot of sprung ones fail because of lose springs or failing springs. That is the sole reason I went with an unsprung one. It chatters a bit on deceleration but I don't mind. It sounds like a race car LOL.
 
The chatter from the unsprung disc is hard on the driveline, and engine.

Believe it or not broken springs is usually the fault of the installer. I've never had a sprung disc fail. Even with the abuse of 4 hoosies and 10sec slips. I also don't run them for years. I replace the disc yearly or so. I suppose that the springs can fatigue and fail, but the wear on the input shaft splines in that amount of time is much worse.

Also the ACT flywheels are a nice piece. Not saying other's aren't.
 
I have had the act 2600, xtreme pressure plate with a street disc, I love the durability but I hate the pedal feel. I don't think I will use this clutch kit again but not because there bad I just want a more stock clutch pedal feel. I hate doing my damn clutch pedal every 2 years. I do drive in LA 405 stop and go traffic tho.
 
I have been quite satisfied with ACT products. I am currently on year 2 on a 2600 PP, sprung organic disk, and lightweight flywheel. I have not yet noticed a difference in reliability between the newer and older ACT product line. If anything, the pedal feel is slightly improved. I regularly participate in Autocross, Rallycross, and open track days in addition to a fair amount of commuting if you are interested in how I use the car.
There are a number of reasons why people report pre-mature failures when the product itself is not at fault.
  • Improperly stepped/unresurfaced flywheel.
  • Cheap components (aftermarket TOB).
  • Worn fork and pivot.
  • Improper torque applied to fasteners.
  • Improper setup for application.
  • Unmaintained hydraulic system (slave, master cylinder).
  • Improper master cylinder adjustment.
  • Poor driving/shifting (clutch dumps).
  • Improper break-in.
I personally prefer to stick the same brand instead of mixing different parts together. Some performance clutch kits will vary in pedal feel, though, it is something that will become second nature.
 
I'd like to comment on the step height deal.... There IS NOT a single recommended step height that can be assumed to work well for everything. You can not assume that if you have .612" or whatever number is floating around you will be good. You need to bolt the clutch to a flywheel and check that you have clearance between the fingers and discs when it is fully released. I shoot for .050" of release clearance. This essentially sets your lower limit for the step height. The upper limit is sort of determined by the pressure plates spring curve. Ideally you want it so the fingers are about .050" -.100" above vertical, that way you get the most release out of your tob travel. Any more than that and you start getting "centrifugal assist" and have high rpm shifting problems, and you get on the weak side of the clamp load when the disc wears in.

Finally, any heavy clamp load disc that has a lightish pedal feel will need more release travel.
 
I have had the act 2600, xtreme pressure plate with a street disc, I love the durability but I hate the pedal feel. I don't think I will use this clutch kit again but not because there bad I just want a more stock clutch pedal feel. I hate doing my damn clutch pedal every 2 years. I do drive in LA 405 stop and go traffic tho.

Try a new stock pp and a 6 puck. The sprung XTD ones are not as agressive as an act disc, but they don't hold as well.
 
I have never had an issue with ACT. I would go ACT 2600.

I however have had a major issue with southbend! I used the 2700 pressure plate with ceramic and kevlar disc i babied the car for about 500 miles. After my first launch it was toast. It would slip just flooring it in 3rd. Southbend can blame and point fingers at me but i have had zero act clutches fail out of the 6 i have run. I swaped in an ACT 4 pluck solid hob disc with the southbend Pressure plate and problem solved!

My car was making 430hp at the time, i dont remember what the southbend clutch kit was rated at but i am certain i was 100-200hp under it.
 
I would lisen to the guys above me... But here is my two cents.. I have a 6 puck kevlar clutch and (xtd) pressure plate, and I have never ever experience anything better than this, it has never slipped no signs of wear ( engine out currently) and feels like stock have thrown 30psi at it will no problems.. I have seen act with bent fingers, FYI. So what's the point xtd is not considered equally as other brands, thus they are more economic.. But I'm happy with it.
 
I would highly recommend a south bend clutch. I purchased two from Tim zimmer and they have been great.
 
I use the old school act street disc (exedy center with light springs) and newer 2600 plate with bump on fingers. factory 2g or evo flywheel. it will pull the front wheels off the ground on a hard launch 2.3 red with near 500tq. from the wear at 10,000 miles (all hard city and no hwy) it looks like friction material will last 25-30k. I use a hydro throw out bearing that makes the clutch do everything better. smoother, faster shifts, lighter pedal. (about like act2100)

2600pp sucks in a 1g car. the factory pedal assembly flat sucks and flexes too much. dont go there. go SBC if 1g.
stock PP is around 1600lb. ACT 2100 holds far more.
SBC prides there PP has more holding than 2600 but with lighter pedal. the drawback is shorter pedal travel not longer. this is okay for smooth grabbing friction materials but is bad with puc clutches.

I personally hate puc clutches. its the first step in ruining a nice driving car.
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