What's Wrong? Clutch?

[SuperSlowGST]

I have researched and read on here a lot and I haven't found anyone yet with the same problem. I bought a 97 gst 5 months ago. I knew it needed a clutch(slipping and burning). Before I could put a clutch in, the slave cylinder went bad and the fluid line going into it also went bad. I fixed that and 3 weeks later replaced the clutch with Exedy Stage 1 and had the flywheel resurfaced. Two days later the clutch started slipping (no burning smell) again. My mechanic adjusted it. It did fine for about 3 weeks. Then going down the road, it felt like I lost the pedal. I pulled over and checked the fluid. There was none. I filled it up and bled it. Still no pedal. Had it towed home. I then installed a new master cylinder. I then had a clutch again. For only two days. I can drive it for about 15 min and it does fine, then it starts to slip(no smell). I stay close to home on these trips. My pedal feels fine now. The next day, I can drive 15 min with no problems, then slipping AGAIN. I have not even put 1200 miles on this clutch and I haven't driven it hard. My mechanic has used all of the adjustment in the pedal. What is going on? Please help?!

 

[SuperSlowGST]

I forgot to add, when I drive it for 15 min and it's OK, I then stop and cut off the car. When I get back in to start it up I have to push the clutch in as far as I can to get it, to start. I don't think it will start sometimes. The pedal also feels different than when I first left in it. Thanks!!

 

[99undrpsi]

is the engagement closer to the floor rather than middle/begining of pedal?

Im having same problem - I had act2600 - replaced with exedy stage 1 cuz the pedal would drop - so either exended slave rod or new clutch.

Replaced clutch and i lose pedal feel slowly - went thru like 3 slaves.

In our case you went thru slave, master, and clutch - I cant think of what would make it burn up besides possible wrong step in flywheel.

 

[SuperSlowGST]

It is not burning though. No smell. It engages at the top. Thanks for taking time to respond. Think I 'll have to pull it and check it out?

 

[Quik_GSX]

Same thing may be occurring with my '97 GS-T. I had a cylinder go out on me and lost all clutch pressure. I had it fixed and regained pressure but sometimes my clutch starts slipping erratically. My mechanic is still replacing my timing belts, water pump, etc. and it going to check out my clutch again. I'll let you know what happend though. I'm ready to dump in a new clutch if need be.

 

[Logue]

does your clutch get hard when its starts to slip if so. I had the same problem about 4 months ago .. get in the car (cold) and the clutch would be fine feel normal. then driving maybe 15 to 30 minutes later the clutch would start getting harder and harder than the clutch would start slipping(no burning smell). Somone on one of these forums told me to pump and the clutch about 1,000 times till you can't feel your leg anymore than adjust the master cylinder to give it some free play about an inch on the top of the pedal. then pump it again 500 times till your leg goes numb and you kind of feel the clutch start to pump up. adust the master cylinder rod to give it a little more free play again i did that and haven't had the clutch slip or anything in 4 months. i'm going to say it has to be in your hydraulic lines. hope this helps....

 

[SuperSlowGST]

I will definately try this tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[Quik_GSX]

does your clutch get hard when its starts to slip if so. I had the same problem about 4 months ago .. get in the car (cold) and the clutch would be fine feel normal. then driving maybe 15 to 30 minutes later the clutch would start getting harder and harder than the clutch would start slipping(no burning smell). Somone on one of these forums told me to pump and the clutch about 1,000 times till you can't feel your leg anymore than adjust the master cylinder to give it some free play about an inch on the top of the pedal. then pump it again 500 times till your leg goes numb and you kind of feel the clutch start to pump up. adust the master cylinder rod to give it a little more free play again i did that and haven't had the clutch slip or anything in 4 months. i'm going to say it has to be in your hydraulic lines. hope this helps....

That's EXACTLY what's happening in my situation. It started happening after I had my cylinder changed after losing pressure. I'll have to recheck the lines and make the pressure is cool.

 

[Logue]

i did that after replacing both master and slave cylinder.
i takes a while but it worked for me. if you get tired have your g/f pump the clutch that always works good too. :laugh:

 

[Revenant]

Since you replaced a slave cylinder going bad already, I would immediately look at the old master cylinder... FWIW, if either one goes bad, it's a good idea to replace/rebuild the other one at the same time.

Don't ask me how I know. And for the record, when my MC cylinder went bad and dumped all the fuid out, I never saw a leak on it directly (and obviously), nor on the ground. Good luck!

 

[jb95gst]

does your clutch get hard when its starts to slip if so. I had the same problem about 4 months ago .. get in the car (cold) and the clutch would be fine feel normal. then driving maybe 15 to 30 minutes later the clutch would start getting harder and harder than the clutch would start slipping(no burning smell). Somone on one of these forums told me to pump and the clutch about 1,000 times till you can't feel your leg anymore than adjust the master cylinder to give it some free play about an inch on the top of the pedal. then pump it again 500 times till your leg goes numb and you kind of feel the clutch start to pump up. adust the master cylinder rod to give it a little more free play again i did that and haven't had the clutch slip or anything in 4 months. i'm going to say it has to be in your hydraulic lines. hope this helps....

This sounds like the same problem I have, but I have one question about this method, If you do this and adjust, won't it feel real soft when the car is cold and it goes back to normal?
I found on RRE's Site that it is called the "2g pedal pump up" and they say to adjust the top adjuster for the pedal, but I have not been able to get it fixed and have been trying to adjust for the past month at leaste.
Thanks, JB

 

[SuperSlowGST]

Ummm why look into other things when you have the answer
Find the leak first.

Since replacing the master cylinder fluid level is fine. The problem is still there.

 

[Logue]

i found that article too.

i tried that why about a million times. didn't work for me

then i was on dsm1gina2g and asked about the problem.

This sounds like the same problem I have, but I have one question about this method, If you do this and adjust, won't it feel real soft when the car is cold and it goes back to normal?

the answer to your question is no. you start with the clutch cold and adjust it so the pedel never pumps up again.

you have to get the master cylinder rod perfect becuase everytime you push the clutch you pressurize the system. but when you take your foot off the clutch the rod in the master cylinder has to go far enough back to where the fluid can go back into the master cylinder resivior(spelling??) through a little valve.

The clutch starts to pump up because the fluid isn't going back into the resivor(brainfart-spelling)


1. after the car has been sitting and the clutch feels relatively normal
2. pump the clutch till your leg goes numb and clutch feels hard(its kinda hard because you start to forget what it felt like to begin with.)
3. than adjust the adjuster at the top so the clutch feels a little softer only have to turn it a quarter turn or so clockwise.
4 do it again. trial and error.
5. i think i did it about 3-4 times

 

[jb95gst]

Should I do this with the car running or not?
JB

 

[Logue]

not

 

[Logue]

i bought my car with the restrictor removed.

t.o.b. idk they make noise when they go they sound like a cricket

 

[Quik_GSX]

the answer to your question is no. you start with the clutch cold and adjust it so the pedel never pumps up again.

you have to get the master cylinder rod perfect becuase everytime you push the clutch you pressurize the system. but when you take your foot off the clutch the rod in the master cylinder has to go far enough back to where the fluid can go back into the master cylinder resivior(spelling??) through a little valve.

The clutch starts to pump up because the fluid isn't going back into the resivor(brainfart-spelling)


1. after the car has been sitting and the clutch feels relatively normal
2. pump the clutch till your leg goes numb and clutch feels hard(its kinda hard because you start to forget what it felt like to begin with.)
3. than adjust the adjuster at the top so the clutch feels a little softer only have to turn it a quarter turn or so clockwise.
4 do it again. trial and error.
5. i think i did it about 3-4 times

I see that keep doing these steps as trial and error, but what is the ultimate pedal feeling your shooting for? Oh, and where exactly is the adjuster you mess around with?

 

[Logue]

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

ultimate peddle feeling will be different depending on your clutch. but you don't want the clutch to "pump" up, and have the engagement point move all the way to the top after driving it for a little while.

the adjuster you want to mess with is labeled rod adjustment 3/4 down the rre site page.

 

[Quik_GSX]

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

ultimate peddle feeling will be different depending on your clutch. but you don't want the clutch to "pump" up, and have the engagement point move all the way to the top after driving it for a little while.

the adjuster you want to mess with is labeled rod adjustment 3/4 down the rre site page.

Thanks a lot for the info. After you adjusted the master cylinder rod did you continue to pump again or did you drive for a while first to see if it worked? I want to do it myself because my mechanic changed the hydraulic tube leading to the clutch slave cylinder due to it breaking, casuing me to loose clutch pressure, and now this problem started happening after the replacement. My dad says my clutch may be going out but the signs point to your solution.

 

[Logue]

i did it the method once then drove around about 30 minutes, the clutch was better, didn't slip but the engagement point moved up again. Got back to my house did the method one more time and the problem was just gone and has not back.

 

[SuperSlowGST]

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

ultimate peddle feeling will be different depending on your clutch. but you don't want the clutch to "pump" up, and have the engagement point move all the way to the top after driving it for a little while.

the adjuster you want to mess with is labeled rod adjustment 3/4 down the rre site page.

My mechanic did not know of the adjustment on the top of the clutch. I adjusted it myself. The first trip I took was about 45 min and it did OK. That is the only trip so far. I am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping this did the trick.

 

[SuperSlowGST]

Clutch is not slipping anymore. Grabs really good. It is getting harder and harder to change into gears 1-3 now. I have adusted it as best as I can. Any ideas?