What tool for transfer case nut

[wt71gas]

I have been on here for a while but hardly ever post so I am limited to this forum. I have a 90 AWD Talon and am wondering what is the best tool to use for the 55mm nut that holds the output shaft on. I dont think a regular 55mm socket will work because it has to go over the output shaft to get to the nut. Is there a factory tool I don't know about? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[sonicnofadz]

I have no idea what your talking about. There is a nut that holds on the main output shaft? Maybe you could post a pic? I seriously doubt there is a 55 mm nut anywhere on a DSM, .

 

[Enraged78]

I've pulled my T-Case about a dozen times and I don't ever recall seeing a 55mm nut. I've replaced the seals, u-joint, everything, and I still don't recall seeing anything remotely like this. The way I get the case of is to pull the six bolts surrounding the case. There are two up top that are very easy to miss. After you are SURE that all the bolts are off, the case still might be difficult to remove. Get a screwdriver and gently pound it between the case and transmission. Do this at different sections to pull the case from the output shaft. Do NOT twist the screwdriver, as you will dent the housing of the T-case and tranny. Pull the t-case off and slide the driveshaft out of the t-case. Secure the driveshaft with some wire to keep it from scraping the ground. That's it.

Matt.

 

[DevilSperm]

Just to clear it up a bit, its only 5 bolts holding the t-case on. 2 short ones and 3 long ones.

 

[wt71gas]

Just to give you a little background on twhat I am doing. I sent in the out shaft itself and the extension housing to the Driveshaft shop for the transfer case upgrade. There IS a big 55mm nut that you have to unbolt to get the output shaft out. It kinda looks like an axle nut with the spots at the top where you would hit in in to lock the nut in place. Anyways, I just used a crescent wrench and pliers to get it off somehow My issue is when I get it back together I would like to torque it to proper values but a regular 55mm socket wont work because it has to be very deep to fit over the output shaft to get to the nut. I think there is some sort of crush sleeve that the nut tightens down onto. I find it kinda weird that a lot of people have rebuilt their transfer cases but never had this problem. If I can get my camera working again I will snap a pic of it.

 

[DevilSperm]

OK I see what you are talking about now. Ive never been into the transfer case but would osmething like this work on the end of a torque wrench? http://news.thomasnet.com/images/large/2002/03/7864.jpg

 

[wt71gas]

Those might work but I am not sure of 1) If I can get one of those in 55mm and 2) If they will give an accurate torque reading while attached. I guess it would probably be just as close as putting a socket on a torque wrench. I guess I will do some searching for one of those. Definitely please somebody let me know if you have reinstalled one of these nuts and what you did would be very helpful.

 

[Blkrx7]

I made a tool for that job. Just welded up some flat bar stock in a hex pattern, and drilled a hole in the edge. Stuck in a 17mm nut and bolt, and torqued the whole assembly down. Cost a nickle in scrap metal, and two minutes of welding.

My fear is that it's really not accurate enough for torque on a bearing. But, I was out of options at the time, and the t-case was basically built from scrap parts anyhow.

My only other thoughts were to use an old yoke. Clamp the nut in a vice, weld a nut onto the yoke and use a torque wrench on it. Or, use an old output shaft, weld on a nut, and calculate the torque required through the t-case gear set. (it's not quite 1:1).

Terribly unhelpful I know, but so far my tcase hasn't shown any serious ill effects. If I had time in the future, i'd just take it to a tranny shop.

Good luck!

Paul

 

[wt71gas]

Just so people will know for future posts I called the Snap-On rep and he says he has a crow foot type wrench that will work for about $45. The factory tool which is part number MB991013 looks like a flattened crow wrench. They call it a spanner wrench tool in the manual. I don't know what they retail for but I found one used for $15 so I snagged it. Good info for anyone planning on doing a rebuild on their transfer case

 

[DevilSperm]

post up a pic sometime if you can, for future reference

 

[wt71gas]

Here is a pic of the tool I bought. By the way this thread could use some reputation points because I am tired of only being able to post in the newbie thread.

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[AlmightySo]

Anyone know the torque spec? Can't find any info anywhere. 95 GSX

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[19Eclipse90]

109 ft-lbs.

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[AlmightySo]

109 ft-lbs.

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Dude you’re the man! What freaking book is this in, the Chilton one doesn’t have deep information on everything.

 

[19Eclipse90]

2G DSM Factory Service Manual for Chassis, Body, & Powertrain w/ Bookmarks

 

[jdxnc]

When you don't have the proper tool but you do have a plasma cutter

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[AlmightySo]

When you don't have the proper tool but you do have a plasma cutter

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Nice! I’ll post a pic of the one my buddy made for me tomorrow. How did it feel when you torqued it to 109ft lbs? Cause I stopped at 80 and it feels tight to turn by hand with the yoke on.

 

[twicks69]

The reason it is tight to turn by hand is the pinion preload shim is not the correct thickness; it is too thin so you are having more preload than recommended. Mitsu half-assed this by slapping in whatever shim they felt was close enough, then tightening the shaft nut until preload felt good, and then they staked the shaft nut.

I have taken apart hundreds of transfer cases and they are almost ALL like this from the factory. When I do my assemblies, I just use the correct pinion preload shim that actually is for the bearing preload I want and turning feel, and I torque my shaft nuts to 109ft/lb, then check turning feel, and then stake the shaft nut.