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I figured it would make no difference because right now it just has a hose coming off of it that goes to nothing.

The problem is too many people assume. The amount of times I've heard "alright because you found it like that" is enough to make me a rich man haha.

I suggest you read : 4G63T PCV System

"If the PCV system isn't functioning properly, several not so pleasant things can happen. Probably the worst of these is that crankcase pressure can build up and cause the dipstick to pop out (especially if it's old and worn out), potentially covering everything in oil. In a worst-case scenario this could cause an engine fire. Not fun.

Note: Clamping the dipstick down to prevent it from blowing out is not a fix for a poorly operating PCV system. If your dipstick still pops out even after replacing it with a new one, fix your PCV issues!

Excessive crankcase pressure can also wreak havoc on seals, cause accelerated bearing wear, and in some cases hinder the proper draining of oil from the turbo back into the oil pan.

A dirty or clogged PCV valve can also affect performance and fuel economy. If it's stuck open, boost from the IM can enter the crankcase, causing a slight drop in power due to pumping losses... if the dipstick doesn't pop out first. It can also cause drivability issues due to fluctuations in IM vacuum, since it has lost the ability to properly meter the air as described above. If it's stuck closed or completely clogged, oil contamination can become a serious issue and your bearings will start to suffer. "
 
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Ohh it's just a regular auto meter carbon fiber +20 psi boost gauge. Nothin special, I'm just growing past what the gauge will read.

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The problem is too many people assume. The amount of times I've heard "alright because you found it like that" is enough to make me a rich man haha.

I suggest you read : 4G63T PCV System

"If the PCV system isn’t functioning properly, several not so pleasant things can happen. Probably the worst of these is that crankcase pressure can build up and cause the dipstick to pop out (especially if it’s old and worn out), potentially covering everything in oil. In a worst-case scenario this could cause an engine fire. Not fun.

Note: Clamping the dipstick down to prevent it from blowing out is not a fix for a poorly operating PCV system. If your dipstick still pops out even after replacing it with a new one, fix your PCV issues!

Excessive crankcase pressure can also wreak havoc on seals, cause accelerated bearing wear, and in some cases hinder the proper draining of oil from the turbo back into the oil pan.

A dirty or clogged PCV valve can also affect performance and fuel economy. If it’s stuck open, boost from the IM can enter the crankcase, causing a slight drop in power due to pumping losses… if the dipstick doesn’t pop out first. It can also cause drivability issues due to fluctuations in IM vacuum, since it has lost the ability to properly meter the air as described above. If it’s stuck closed or completely clogged, oil contamination can become a serious issue and your bearings will start to suffer. "

Hmmm, good read! So catchcan!
 
Hmm, interesting. I still don't fully understand how the boost controller works LOL. I'll Look into wideband.

Think of it as a pressure regulator. 20psi goes in one side, but only 10psi (or required pressure to operate wastegate) comes out the other. So the turbo is pushing 20psi before the wastegate opens. Turning up the boost is simply closing the valve so it takes more overall boost to push the wastegate open.
 
Hmmm, good read! So catchcan!

CC pressure is a silent killer of motors. A lot of people don't understand and think just because there's no outright ill effects, there's no damage being done. Despite the fact of potential bearing damage from oil contamination, there's added chance of any oil seal/gasket failing prematurely from excessive pressure spikes.

No one says you need to buy the fancy $100 catchcan, but make sure its sealed! Generic or not. I know STM sells a vented catchcan so avoid that one. I bought a Mishimoto back in the day and have nothing but good things to say about it.

Follow the guide I linked you to on proper set-up and you'll never need to worry!
 
Exhaust, 2g manifold, evo3 02 housing, 264 cams maybe, things along that line.
 
CC pressure is a silent killer of motors. A lot of people don't understand and think just because there's no outright ill effects, there's no damage being done. Despite the fact of potential bearing damage from oil contamination, there's added chance of any oil seal/gasket failing prematurely from excessive pressure spikes.

No one says you need to buy the fancy $100 catchcan, but make sure its sealed! Generic or not. I know STM sells a vented catchcan so avoid that one. I bought a Mishimoto back in the day and have nothing but good things to say about it.

Follow the guide I linked you to on proper set-up and you'll never need to worry!

How's this look?

PURPLE ALUMINUM RACE RACING TURBO ENGINE OIL LINE CATCH RESERVOIR CAN/TANK CAP | eBay
 
Maintinence before you do any upgrades.DSM 4G63 Maintenance Guide - DSMtuners Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners If you follow these then you cant go wrong!
Good luck and keep updating start a thread on your maintinence, take pics and then add your upgrades to it take pics lots of ppl like to see how progress goes.

Thank you thank you. How difficult is that whole timing belt situation? I've thought about it, but I'm scared of it. Taking off the intake manifold was a challenge for me even with some help.
 
While this is better than a breather filter, it will do zero in the way of catching oil. You need one with internal baffles to force oil particles out of the air.

Baffling is VERY important. There are generic catchcans out there with baffles. He's definitely on the right track. Keep looking and you'll find a good one.....or just ask Calan to price you out :thumb:

I should also note: only certain Mishimoto catchcans came with baffles. I was the part of the lucky few to get a hold of that batch as of late.
 
Think of it as a pressure regulator. 20psi goes in one side, but only 10psi (or required pressure to operate wastegate) comes out the other. So the turbo is pushing 20psi before the wastegate opens. Turning up the boost is simply closing the valve so it takes more overall boost to push the wastegate open.

Ahh, that is perfect! Thanks for that. Makes complete sense now LOL.
 
I would recommend you over-research everything you do on your car on here before you actually do it. Thats what I have done, and I have made mistakes, but because I searched and searched some more, the mistakes were of the minor variety. I'm convinced the reliability issues everyone loves to refer to on here are more due to people strapping parts onto their car without proper oversight. DSM's in a lot of ways are a budget platform, they go fast very cheaply, but they don't continue to go fast without doing things the right way. I realize you like to shop on ebay, and so do I. I love ebay, it is a great toll to get what you want cheaply. I'd advise you to do what I have done. I like to think im pretty smart, but I approach my DSM with a "I am dumb" approach. I like to do what I like to call reverse ebay searching. If I want a part, I search for it on here and see what people like and prefer. There is 10 years worth of parts posts on here, it is an incredible resource. When ive figured out what I want to buy, I write it down on my trusty notepad. I check into ebay every 4 or 5 days looking for that part. I find lots of other flashy and cheap alternatives, but I do not buy them. To me, you are putting your car at risk, using unproven parts without the proper knowledge. I also like to overprepare. If I'm putting a new turbo on my car, I make sure I have every supporting mod possible to run that turbo. Theres nothing original about my setup, and I like it that way, because if I run into trouble, there are parts specific posts relating to exactly the same problem im having. Search using google, its much better than the search box here. I'd start by googling "Good manual boost controller dsmtuners" or "supporting mods manual boost controller dsmtuners." I don't want to see you back here with a blown engine because you've turned up your boost and leaned out your engine, raining molten death into your oil pan. At the very least, if you are going to buy all china ebay, be prepared for the reality that the parts might be cheaply made and fail. Some things are great to buy on ebay, others are a total no-no :nono: This post is too long, and you can quote me on that.
 
Well thank you for that!! So was the boost controller a bad idea? Lol. I figured it was so basic that it couldn't be messed up. I've gotten almost everything fr eBay and have no complaints so far. The only things I won't get are off brand turbos and off brand internal engine components. How bad is leaning out for very short periods? It happens sometimes because of my super leaks. Thanks for the google search idea too, I'll just do that from now on.
 
Yes adding a MBC is easy, its when you use it/turn up the boost it gets messy. Do you have any way of monitering the A/F? If you dont, dont bother putting the MBC in. Gong lean/knocking kills engines. Imagine going lean for short periods as....your lung and every time you go lean a part of your lung is cut out. Sure you can still live, but sooner or later you are out of lung and die. Just like your engine
 
Yes adding a MBC is easy, its when you use it/turn up the boost it gets messy. Do you have any way of monitering the A/F? If you dont, dont bother putting the MBC in. Gong lean/knocking kills engines. Imagine going lean for short periods as....your lung and every time you go lean a part of your lung is cut out. Sure you can still live, but sooner or later you are out of lung and die. Just like your engine

Alright. I'll get the wideband next. This one seem ok? http://bit.ly/PQWTFl if you know any better deals, let me know.
 
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