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what supporting mods?

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04scooby

15+ Year Contributor
64
0
Jul 20, 2005
Blackwell, Oklahoma
I just purchased the car I have been looking at(92 Eclipse GSX for $800) and was wanting some opinions.

The power plant I plan on buying is a buschurracing stage 2 shortblock and stage 2 head with HKS 272 cams. My question is what turbo and other bits and pieces would I need to take full advantage but still be a daily driver? I know if I go with a 3 inch exhaust the chances of boost creep go up(the way I understand it) so parts that eliminate that is a must.

thanks for the input in advance.
 
Defiantly falls under the (how do I run 10's when I haven't run 12's part of the forum). Did you buy this car running. What kind of milage does it have on it? You really need to fill out your vehicle profile first. If there is nothing wrong with the motor compression and turbowise I would first start building that up to get used to the power. Boost gauge, MBC, exhaust, SAFC, things of that nature first before you just jump in and buy 5K worth of parts and put it in a car having no knowledge of tuning with it or how it will react. Take little steps at first. Everyone on here will tell you that. Because if you buy all of these mods and the car doesn't run right you can't pinpoint it to one mod you JUST put on it could be a combination of things not going right. But if you think you need to go out to SBR right away and buy a shortblock and racehead with 272's for daily driving I would go with no less than a EVO III 16g. Most likely with a 50 trim. No point in having a expensive motor though if you are just going to daily drive it. You will never get your money out of it. Supporting mod wise you are looking at upgrading the BOV to a Tial preferably, MAF blow-thru setup, o2 housing with AEM wideband o2 sensor, DSMLink for tuning as well. 3" full exhaust and a FMIC of sorts. Also want to get boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauge along with a FPR and 255lph FP with at LEAST 660 injectors. You can't just buy a motor and slap a turbo on and get instant power. The supporting mods alone will set you back a couple grand not to mention the tuning time it will take as well.
 
not eveyone is John Shepard, you have to think also about the tranny, and drive train. those axles cv joints and boots, diffs are all 15 years old...
i would start, assuming the motor is running, by replacing all belts and hoses, service the engine, tranny, transfercase, diffs, brakes, and clutch fluid. i would make sure the clutch is good, replace tires, brake pads, disks, and fuel filter.

once all of that is done then you are ready for something nice, the best things in life are free and so are these
http://dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/stage0power.php <-free mods!!
then do this, its tried and true, you cant go wrong
http://dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/

take it slow and learn because you will need that know how for repairs.
we are not getting on to you, we just dont want you to make mistakes that cost you 5K
 
I own a 2004 WRX I have some experience with power I think. Also, I planned on the free mods but I just bought the car. The reason I plan on the stage 2 head and block is so when I DO decide to do something other than use it as a daily driver I wont be spending more money. I know some parts that are good for my WRX that might might be that benificial that is why I posted in the newbie forum, I dont consider this benchracing or the like. I do however appreciate the parts info that you guys have given me. I have considered the drivetrain and that is why I am waiting to ask info about that until I can tell more about it.

info about the car:

192000 miles that has been rebuilt but not started since the rebuild. Turbo does have some shaft play but still usable for the time being. The guy that rebuilt it is kind of a known drug user so I plan on getting everything checked out before I drive it. If the engine checks out then I will have more time to refine my parts list and change my mind on some things.
 
With that many miles you are going to want to have everything that i said above done, i would guess that you would know that ;)

If the engine was never started after a rebuild, and the quality of the person who did the rebuild is in question, then i would baby that engine.

How far ( in inches) can you move the shaft? up down and foward back? you want less than 1/8th of an inch to still get half-way decent use from it, and since its already damaged you never know when it might take a crap on you.

Drive the car nice, service and check everything, and most importantly get a feel for the car, every dsm is different.
 
shaft play is about 1/8th inch. I did plan on getting it rebuilt and ported and polished at boostplanet.com once it gave up the ghost.

I know the stage 2 block is a little overkill and I probably wont see the HP it is capable of handling once it is a track car, but this is also going to be my girlfriends car as a daily driver and she is very hard on vehicles so I want it to last.
 
well this may sound strange, but engines that are made for high rpm passes may not be good for stop, go, stop, go. The stock block can hold about 350-400 hp (someone correct me if i am wrong). Most people dont get that far. If you are for sure that this is going to be a daily driver and a track car on the weekends, then checking the car out from top to bottom daily is a MUST! oh and if you are hard on a dsm, sometimes it likes to be hard back.
 
400-450 on the hp rating's internal wise. Will need to replace a few gaskets before that. For a girl's DD I wouldn't give her a stage 2 motor. My g/f drive a 99 GSX and she loves it to death. Beats the crap out of it but it takes it. As long as you keep maintainance up these cars will handle A LOT of abuse.
 
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