what oil to use on rebuilt motor

[bgeclipse]

i just rebuilt my motor so i need to know what oil to use on motor?i bought some
valvoline synthetic blend 10w30 and bosch filter you think i should dump it?

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

It's not bad stuff.
But I would run mobil one 5-30 full synthetic, or 10-30.
a lot of people swear by royal purple, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.
If you are ALWAYS running the shit out of it, go for AMSoil synthetic or Royal Purple.
If you're driving hard sometimes and not other times, go with mobil 1.
If you're never really pushing it, go ahead and buy cheap stuff if you want, penzoil is fine if you don't beat on it. But synthetics are the future.

 

[bgeclipse]

It's not bad stuff.
But I would run mobil one 5-30 full synthetic, or 10-30.
a lot of people swear by royal purple, but I'm not sure if it's worth it.
If you are ALWAYS running the shit out of it, go for AMSoil synthetic or Royal Purple.
If you're driving hard sometimes and not other times, go with mobil 1.
If you're never really pushing it, go ahead and buy cheap stuff if you want, penzoil is fine if you don't beat on it. But synthetics are the future.

i really dont redline this car , i'll go with mobil 1, so it doesnt matter using synthetic on a just rebuilt motor right?i just put 6 miles on it already

 

[Cal1089]

i just purchased an engine and it stated that i should use conventional oil for the first 500 mile oil change and through the second then switch to synthetic... i have heard this before saying it creates better seals.

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Mobil 1 is fully synthetic.
There is no reason to worry about it. just ease into the motor for the first few hundred miles and give it an oil change. there will be more shavings than usual in the oil as everything gets broken in, that's why the first few oil changes need to be close together, but there is not reason to worry about synthetics.

i just purchased an engine and it stated that i should use conventional oil for the first 500 mile oil change and through the second then switch to synthetic... i have heard this before saying it creates better seals.

This is externally, not internally. the only reason for this would be to gunk up the gaskets. because synthetic is known to be easily pushed through gaskets. but such a warning is just a company that doesn't want to deal with kids that don't know anything about an engine and freak if they see a drip of oil beneath the car.

 

[edsgst]

I run AMS oil, and I'm very happy with it. The engine has never been quieter.
Whichever brand you choose, I would make sure to run a full conventional oil
for the initial break-in period.

When I had mine rebuilt, I ran conventional for the first 1500 or so, changed the
filter and oil, then ran it another 3000 before I switched to AMS oil. Maybe it was
too cautious, but I wanted to play it safe.

 

[Cal1089]

I run AMS oil, and I'm very happy with it. The engine has never been quieter.
Whichever brand you choose, I would make sure to run a full conventional oil
for the initial break-in period.

When I had mine rebuilt, I ran conventional for the first 1500 or so, changed the
filter and oil, then ran it another 3000 before I switched to AMS oil. Maybe it was
too cautious, but I wanted to play it safe.

yeah i will do what the company recommends because well its my warranty and and i would hate for it to not follow through because of oil issues. but yeah you do what you like but this is gonna be what im gonna do.

first 500 conventional
1000 conventional
then synthetic

just seems appropriate

 

[davidalindsey]

When I finish my rebulid I am going to use Mobil Clean 5000 5W-30 for the first 3000 miles and then put in Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30, with a K&N filter.

 

[DSM1G90]

I am going to use Mobil Clean 5000 5W-30 for the first 3000 miles

Nah, with this above procedure, motor won't be broken in correctly. WAY TOO LONG on break-in oil usage and the oil is too thin.

Always break the motor in with dino oil (simple 10w/30 Vavoline, Castrol, or similar) so the rings can seat easier and quicker. I'd do multiple changes before going synthetic:

1)- Begin with dino oil so the filter can trap any metal filings that the rings are going to cut while seating against the cylinder walls along with any other metal to metal component contact, then, change this after 200 miles.

2)-another dino/filter change for the next 500 miles to really get things broke into and seated, then,

3)- go ahead and do the full synth/filter change.

Also, during break-in, you can can the throttle on occasion in 2nd or 3rd gear to help the rings seat faster, but never up to red line...

But never, never keep the RPM's at a steady range, or your motor will break in at that RPM and major problems will result if this practice was used - like major oil burning for starters....

Good luck-DSM

 

[davidalindsey]

Nah, with this above procedure, motor won't be broken in correctly. WAY TOO LONG on break-in oil usage and the oil is too thin.

Always break the motor in with dino oil (simple 10w/30 Vavoline, Castrol, or similar) so the rings can seat easier and quicker. I'd do multiple changes before going synthetic:

1)- Begin with dino oil so the filter can trap any metal filings that the rings are going to cut while seating against the cylinder walls along with any other metal to metal component contact, then, change this after 200 miles.

2)-another dino/filter change for the next 500 miles to really get things broke into and seated, then,

3)- go ahead and do the full synth/filter change.

Good luck-DSM

Thanks for the tip

 

[talondave]

Another thing that helps break-in, is find a road with a long hill on it and engine break all the way down it! That helps to seat the rings.