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What Kind Of Head Gasket?

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Fb90gsT

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
Oct 24, 2005
Long Beach, California
I am planing to run high psi and now that I got my rebuild head from the shop what kind off head gasket should I get?
I want one that is very stong and reliable and wont break if I take my car to the tracks.
Thanks
:dsm: :thumb:
 
Those are good but you better make sure everything is machined straight and to use coppercoat on the gasket. I went with the stock 4g63 headgasket and it takes 22psi and low 12 second e.t.'s all day long. Never a problem.
 
For extra peace of mind, the Mitsu 4-layer metal headgasket is perfect. Do ARP headstuds at the same time though... I neglected that part, and am kicking myself now.
 
Why do u regret it now, what happened?
Do you have to mod something before putting in the APR STUDS i heard the head wont just drop in.
Also where can i get the multi layer gasket for a fair price and that goes with the APR STUDS also.
Thanks.
I really appreciate this.
:dsm: :thumb:
Also, what is copper coat?
 
I did not have to mod anything to use the ARP headstuds. I read on VFAQ that you have to cut part of the motor mount off in order for the head to slide down on the studs. Try it before you cut anything. I got my multi-layer steel headgasket at a Mitsubishi dealership for $78. The list price was for $97 I believe. They may have trouble finding the part number since it's not listed as a part from a dsm. I got my ARP head studs through a local shop for $89; however, Slowboy Racing has them for the same price. I didn't use any coppercoat when I did mine and it holds fine. But as a precaution, I would use it.
 
Stock head bolts aren't meant to handle the pressure from running high levels of boost. They can stretch and even break. With the ARP's you won't have to worry about it. You can fix it right or fix it twice. If your stock headgasket was leaking then it is possible that the surfaces could be warped slightly. If they are warped then any kind of headgasket you use will not seal up properly. I recommend getting both surfaces machined so that they seal up properly.
 
Get the ARP's they will not stretch like the stock head bolts under high boost. I would recommend the cometic or the MLS head gasket both are good gaskets. It is not as important as you think though the tune is the most important. Reliablitiy it is a good idea to go ahead with a multi layer use the copper spray for extra insurance.
 
I had no trouble taking my head off and putting it back on over the headstuds. I take the motor mount off. Takes like 2 extra minute's if that. You can swap the headbolts out for headstuds individually but I don't know if i would recommend it.
 
Mostly because IIRC, once you put on a HG and lock it down, you really can't re-use it the next time you pull the head. So gotta buy another metal HG, for another hundred bucks.

Of course, if that's incorrect please let me know. I'll probably be down picking up a new set tomorrow if it's possible, and toss in the revised lifters at the same time. :thumb:
 
The multi-layer steel headgasket is reusable as long as it looks to be in good condition and was not leaking. I have a friend running low 11's who reused his mls headgasket and has no problems. Make sure to prime the new lifters before you put them in.
 
95bLaCkGsTuRbO said:
Those are good but you better make sure everything is machined straight and to use coppercoat on the gasket. I went with the stock 4g63 headgasket and it takes 22psi and low 12 second e.t.'s all day long. Never a problem.

I agree. I run 22 psi on a daily driven 18G with ARP headstuds and a stock mitsu composite headgasket... i just pulled my head for jumped timing and the headgasket is in great shape. You have to deck your head and block to be sure the MLS gasket will not leak... I'll get a mls gasket when i go above 30psi.
 
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