what is the condition of my clutch?

[eugenesxyby999]

I was just driving my gf home, it was a smooth ride. when I start driving back, it is so hard to put the stick into the gears. I felt as if im grinding the s&%t out of the gears. I get home, im pushing down the clutch, it feels so loose compared to how it always felt.

what does this mean? and if a blown clutch, how much to repair?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

sounds like to me your clutch slave cylinder went bad. It starts out with really hard to put in gear then after that you cant at all, then you pedal gets real soft then it sticks to the floor.

 

[Tyeler18]

Slave or master. Worst case scenario your clutch shit out and the springs in it came out of the disc.

 

[eugenesxyby999]

are you sure its the clutch slave cylinder?

im guessing that I should not be driving until this is fixed.

is this difficult to replace? I dont have a clue on where this part is located.

 

[Tyeler18]

More than likely it's the slave or the master. A proper use of the search function will show you where they are and how to test them.

 

[eligst21]

slave on your tranny. master up in the drivers side on the firewall, has a little reservoir on it. check fluid level, bleed and adjust correctly. if all fail, either one or both are bad. like said worst case bad clutch. mine blew and couldn't even get it in gear, so doubt your clutch. check those for any leaks or if bad.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Ok guys this just happened to me last week. This is a common problem on older dsms. It's the clutch pedal bushing. I would link, but I'm on my fone. Search here for clutch pedal bushing repair. It's not that hard and is basically welding your pedal so it can't come out of its socket again. Check this first. Get your head by the pedal, then push it down by hand. If yyou notice the pedal moves without pushing the master cylinder which is behind the pedal, its the bushing. I'll check back to help if needed. I had this issue and thought my clutch went out, I was wrong, replaced the clutch with a new kit to no avail. Hope this helps.

 

[Juanpa]

I need to know this also. Just had the same proble. Changes the master cyl, clutch slave, and put a new stage 2 and I have to slam my foot all the way to the floor to get it in gear. First gear clutch all the way in and it still wants to go forward. And the gears grind

 

[eugenesxyby999]

master cylinder is the the thing under the hood, with the little resevoir with the tiny white cap?


you say its on the tranny, where exactly is it? would I need to take off the tranny to get to replace it?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

master cylinder is the the thing under the hood, with the little resevoir with the tiny white cap?


you say its on the tranny, where exactly is it? would I need to take off the tranny to get to replace it?

Yes the clutch master cylinder is under the hood on the firewall with the small white cap.

The slave cylinder is located on the transmission bell housing on the front side of the tranny. No you don't need to take out the transmission to replace it.
It bolts onto the bell housing and pushes on the clutch release lever which attaches to the throw out bearing. If it's not completely pushing in the clutch release lever it can make it very hard to get into/change gears like you're describing.

 

[Tyeler18]

I need to know this also. Just had the same proble. Changes the master cyl, clutch slave, and put a new stage 2 and I have to slam my foot all the way to the floor to get it in gear. First gear clutch all the way in and it still wants to go forward. And the gears grind

Your clutch pedal needs adjusted.

master cylinder is the the thing under the hood, with the little resevoir with the tiny white cap?


you say its on the tranny, where exactly is it? would I need to take off the tranny to get to replace it?

Dude, why don't you try searching? Check out the VFAQ and you'll atleast get a generic "how to" on replacing them. No the tranny doesn't have to be removed to change the slave and yes the master has the little white cap on it.

 

[eligst21]

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:...s/5spd-swap/master-cylinder-reservoir.jpg&t=1
* This is the clutch master cylinder up by your firewall.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/clutch/clutchline-install03.jpg

** This is the slave on the tranny. it is on the lower portion of the tranny. jack up car and look down and you can't miss it. it is right there. there are tests to check and see if its still good, or working, but search it and i guareentee you'll find answers.

let me know if links dont work.

 

[95TalonOwner]

I need to know this also. Just had the same proble. Changes the master cyl, clutch slave, and put a new stage 2 and I have to slam my foot all the way to the floor to get it in gear. First gear clutch all the way in and it still wants to go forward. And the gears grind

Did you machine your flywheel with this new "stage II" clutch? If so, you might need to shim the clutch fork pivot ball.

 

[eugenesxyby999]

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:...s/5spd-swap/master-cylinder-reservoir.jpg&t=1
* This is the clutch master cylinder up by your firewall.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/clutch/clutchline-install03.jpg

** This is the slave on the tranny. it is on the lower portion of the tranny. jack up car and look down and you can't miss it. it is right there. there are tests to check and see if its still good, or working, but search it and i guareentee you'll find answers.

let me know if links dont work.

thanks a lot. if the clutch is not getting any pressure to it, this would mean the master cylinder went bad?

I just ordered both master and slave cylinder and going to attempt to fix it. shops love to rip you off

 

[dkrugg24]

if u replace one cylinder you might as well replace them both becuase one new one and one old one the old one will soon go out because of the pressure the new one is pushing so just save time and money and do them both at the same time its not hard and it doesnt cost that much i just did both of mine myself (should say with a buddy since u need two people to bleed) and got both slave and master from orielys for $60 after taxes

 

[eugenesxyby999]

me and a buddy of mine, took out old slave and master cylinder. just about ready for replacement. just waiting on the parts to come in.

What is the liquid that goes into the little resevoir? brake fluid?

what is the correct way of bleeding the system? and would I bleed it with the old master and slave cylinder? or new ?

 

[95TalonOwner]

Yeah it's brake fluid.

This thread has info on how to bleed it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/389227-need-help-bleeding-clutch.html

 

[ChiTownHussla]

I'm telling you. Man. Adjust he pedal. Before doing all this

 

[eugenesxyby999]

I'm telling you. Man. Adjust he pedal. Before doing all this

you have to bleed before adjusting pedal

 

[ChiTownHussla]

well thats obvious man.....im saying bleed then check b4 u change everything and spend cash on unnecessary stuff....just trryin to save u some loot

 

[ExpresS]

well thats obvious man.....im saying bleed then check b4 u change everything and spend cash on unnecessary stuff....just trryin to save u some loot

Gimme da loot Gimme da loot.

This sounds like a slave cylinder to me. These little guys get overlooked.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

well thats obvious man.....im saying bleed then check b4 u change everything and spend cash on unnecessary stuff....just trryin to save u some loot

"Bushings" Don't suddenly give out as he stated. The cheapest and most obvious way to go about this is to make sure that the system isn't leaking. The FIRST thing that the OP should have done was re-bleed his system and see if it changed. If he could shift again, then he should have seen if the problem came back after a short time. What likely happened are : He either has a leak in the hydrolic line, or the Slave/Master cylinder went out.

This entire thing is rather simple to figure out. While the quoted poster HAS the right idea, something like this is usually related to loss of hydrolic pressure. You could easily have pressed the clutch in and had a friend watch the slave cylinder and see how far it extended.

Where Chi was hitting on the right note, you SHOULD at least crawl under the dash and press in on the clutch pedal. Watch the Master Cylinder rod above the gas pedal and watch how it moves in to the boot in relation to how you're pushing the clutch pedal. If there is slack, extend the rod a little.

Test - Diagnose - Purchase - Install - Maintain.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Thanks guys. After he bleeds he should adjust pedal to remove all free play. that 2+ inches of free play can mean the difference beteween engaging and beign stuck

"Bushings" Don't suddenly give out as he stated. The cheapest and most obvious way to go about this is to make sure that the system isn't leaking. The FIRST thing that the OP should have done was re-bleed his system and see if it changed. If he could shift again, then he should have seen if the problem came back after a short time. What likely happened are : He either has a leak in the hydrolic line, or the Slave/Master cylinder went out.

This entire thing is rather simple to figure out. While the quoted poster HAS the right idea, something like this is usually related to loss of hydrolic pressure. You could easily have pressed the clutch in and had a friend watch the slave cylinder and see how far it extended.

Where Chi was hitting on the right note, you SHOULD at least crawl under the dash and press in on the clutch pedal. Watch the Master Cylinder rod above the gas pedal and watch how it moves in to the boot in relation to how you're pushing the clutch pedal. If there is slack, extend the rod a little.

Test - Diagnose - Purchase - Install - Maintain.

O and btw my bushing did "Just GIVE OUT" while I was driving waiting at a stop light I pushed down the clutch, and it just gave. I had to force it into gear then limp it home in 1st gear to find out my bushing on my clutch pedal gave out. I took it out and had it welded, now its fine