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What Cams Should I Run??

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DSMpwr25

20+ Year Contributor
110
0
Oct 29, 2004
Gloucester, Virginia
I am trying to decide what cams i should run with my engine HKS 264 and 272, or both 272's. I have a forged built block on its way and i am getting a 1G head that i am going to get fully port-polised, valve 1m larger, and 3 or 5 angle valve job. the head will be fully built too, i got a Big 16g to run and i need a full 3in exhaust. i am probley going to run 12 on the street and mabey 15-17 on high boost. what do you guys think i should get?
 
to tell you the truth i have no clue what kinda cams those are or were i could get them
 
crane nitro grind? LOL.


So your doing all that work for what reason? your going to be running a b16g on 17psi (high boost). You really wont gain anything but an empty pocket from putting cams in. Youll gain something sure, but theyre not worth it IMO in your case.
 
why are you putting a 16g on a built motor? What is wrong with people these days? And 17 psi is NOT a lot of boost. For a 16g just stick with stock cams.
 
You doing all this work to run 15-17psi??? I ran 20psi daily on my bone stock 215,000kms engine.

But if you really want cams I would suggest the 264/272's for that setup.
 
Definitely the COMP 100's/FP1 cams. They will give you a little bit more than straight HK$ 264's. People, lets not forget what his goals are. That would be perfect. BTW, Kyle B (NewB2DSM) gained close to 35AWHP on his 2G with those Comp 100's on race gas at ~26psi and on a B16G turbo. He will probably stop by here shortly. :thumb:
 
anconover said:
crane nitro grind? LOL.


So your doing all that work for what reason? your going to be running a b16g on 17psi (high boost). You really wont gain anything but an empty pocket from putting cams in. Youll gain something sure, but theyre not worth it IMO in your case.

You know what those are? wow sombody that actually knows somthing on this board.
 
i am running a b16g because i dont want to run the T3/TO4E i got because i dont trust my drive terrain right now. but thanks for the help
 
bastarddsm said:
You know what those are? wow sombody that actually knows somthing on this board.

I finally found them they are new... I'd like to see a dyno sheet! Some of them look interesting,

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=newProduct&id=8

"Stage 2" Nitrous - moderate engine modifications Part No. 435-0012
Street/Strip cam that also works well with nitrous. Good power on or off the bottle. Use Crane Cams Nitrous Controller (Part No. 6000-9816) for max efficiency. Requires Spring and retainer change; valve guides must be shortened.

Gross Lift: .424" (intake) .404" (exhaust)
Duration (Advt.): 256° (intake) 248° (exhaust)
Duration (@.050): 216° (intake) 208° (exhaust)
Range: Idle through 6,800 RPM

"Stage 3" Racing - serious modifications (rough idle) Part No. 435-0014
Excellent for use with aftermarket turbo systems. "Spools" turbo faster for quicker boost and response. For max power, use an intercooler, plus modified intake/exhaust. Requires spring and retainer change; valve guide must be shortened.

Gross Lift: .443" (intake) .424" (exhaust)
Duration (Advt.): 264° (intake) 256° (exhaust)
Duration (@.050): 224° (intake) 216° (exhaust)
Range: 1,500 through 6,500 RPM


Alot of lift..... Probably a waste on seriously modded heads because I'm sure they wont flow any more at .443 than .411. Could be a lift rate problem which is why they limit the RPM..Ok for strokers that set rev limit right for a stroker. If the Fp3/Fp4 comps are having spring problems to control float these will be much worse than them.

I'm interested in the split duration... Unless you are running alot of boost don't go to the stg3 you will make more power on the 2's... More boost means the intake port pressure is higher above cylinder pressure longer so it can make use of more duration....

IMHO too much lift to be reliable at high RPM and may kill valvesprings (wear out) prematurely as compaired to other cams.
 
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