What brake pads for 3000GT NT calipers on 1G?

[projekt1]

Searched but no answers for me...

I recently purchase a set of 3000gt N/T calipers to throw on my 90TSi. They will be going onto a bigger rotor and I already have the brackets as well. In the rears I already have some Porterfield R4S pads so I need some good pads for the front.

Its a DD and will see track time soon so I would like to know what pads to use for the fronts. The rotors are AEM 12" drilled (IIRC) and slotted rotor that are mounted using brackets (to bolt up the 1G caliper) which will be used for the 3000GT N/T calipers. Its a weird setup apparently the previous owner planned on upgrading the calipers but never got to it so its up to me.

Also, what brake lines would I use and I dont want OEM but dont care for the look of braided SS either.

 

[viprez586]

Hawk HPS pads, great street pads, with the ability to perform at the track.


Who's gonna be peeking at your brake lines? It's more for performance then looks.
I could care less how they look, they're going to get dirty anyway.
You pretty much stated your only two options for brake lines. OEM - whether it's style or Mitsubishi, or aftermarket braided stainless steel...i don't see a third option?

 

[projekt1]

After reading reviews I decided to go with EBS Red Stuff for the pads..Got them for $62 so not a bad deal..

I was looking at RTM's line, they seem nice but haven't seen anything about nybody using them.

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[PieEyedPiper]

After all of my readings I'm go with EBC red stuff, too. Many almost choked when I first sad that. I have no idea why, either. I've done the research and I'll take the reds over any Hawk offering.

Where did you get your pads for $62? Best I can find for awd DSM calipers is $80-90.

 

[projekt1]

After all of my readings I'm go with EBC red stuff, too. Many almost choked when I first sad that. I have no idea why, either. I've done the research and I'll take the reds over any Hawk offering.

Where did you get your pads for $62? Best I can find for awd DSM calipers is $80-90.

The new version (2007 IIRC) are better than the last ones. Something to do with new ownership improving their product line.
I had Summit price match the pads from an online store for that price. They are bigger than the 1g pads too . Ill post the part number in a few for referance.

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[projekt1]

EBC Red Stuff pads (for 3kgt n/t) part# EBC-DP3954C. The price was actually $66.44 not $62 like I had said...

Anyone running the RTM Racing lines?

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16673


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[dsmrollerz90]

Did you get the calipers and bracket and a set or did you get them seperatly? I need to do a brake upgrade.

 

[pbwu1f]

I got a set of Hawk pads. I believe I paid around $95 shipped for them. I also picked up a set of StopTech drilled/slotted and it's night to day difference! The car stops so much better and you can feel the grab is a lot stronger too. I paid less than $200 for calipers, rotors, and pads. I recommend the big brake upgrade to everyone who doesn't have it.

 

[underradar92]

Searched but no answers for me...

I recently purchase a set of 3000gt N/T calipers to throw on my 90TSi. They will be going onto a bigger rotor and I already have the brackets as well. In the rears I already have some Porterfield R4S pads so I need some good pads for the front.

Its a DD and will see track time soon so I would like to know what pads to use for the fronts. The rotors are AEM 12" drilled (IIRC) and slotted rotor that are mounted using brackets (to bolt up the 1G caliper) which will be used for the 3000GT N/T calipers. Its a weird setup apparently the previous owner planned on upgrading the calipers but never got to it so its up to me.

Also, what brake lines would I use and I dont want OEM but dont care for the look of braided SS either.

Why not rock R4s's on the front too? This would serve 2 purposes, IMO.

First, your F/R bias is likely to be more correct.

Second, when you switch to my favorite track pad (R4E P'fields) or regular R4's, your rotors will have Porterfield residue in them, theoretically making bedding in less troublesome.

Porterfields are nice, they don't destroy rotors when cold like some other full race pads do.

 

[projekt1]

Did you get the calipers and bracket and a set or did you get them seperatly? I need to do a brake upgrade.

The rotors and brackets came with the car along with the 1g calipers. I bought the 3kgt calipers a week ago, separately.

Why not rock R4s's on the front too? This would serve 2 purposes, IMO.

First, your F/R bias is likely to be more correct.

Second, when you switch to my favorite track pad (R4E P'fields) or regular R4's, your rotors will have Porterfield residue in them, theoretically making bedding in less troublesome.

Porterfields are nice, they don't destroy rotors when cold like some other full race pads do.

This is good advice. Too bad its a tad bit late since I already got the Red Stuff pads. Next time I'll give them a try.

Still, anyone have the RTM Racing brake lines?

Oh, should I paint the new 3kgt calipers and with what type of paint??

 

[viprez586]

your rotors will have Porterfield residue in them, theoretically making bedding in less troublesome.

Sorry, that is incorrect information.

Theoretically, you should always machine your rotors to have a fresh smooth finish to bed in new pads. The cross hatching is what aids in bedding the pads properly.

Pad "slapping" is horrible - no matter what pads you ran/ or are going to run.

I've never had a problem bedding in pads unless we are instructed to pad slap. Which in most cases glazes the pad and rotor. Here's a perfect example of what rotors look like that are pad slapped aka 'not machining rotors prior to installing new pads.'
In extreme cases, you can feel deep scoring of the "wipe" marks on the rotors.

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Oh, should I paint the new 3kgt calipers and with what type of paint??

G2 caliper paint, Sold @ tirerack.

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I'd rock those RTM stainless brake lines!! Looks like they devoted some time into the market, and they're VERY reasonably priced. It's hard to mess up engineering a brake line, and if their line fails they could potentially have a law suit on their hands. Unless it's "for off-road use only".

No love for the Mazda

 

[projekt1]

Here is a picture of the AEM rotor and the bracket I have. Also the ne 3kgt n/t caliper. Pay no attention to the pads not on correctly..

 

[underradar92]

R4's, your rotors will have Porterfield residue in them, theoretically making bedding in less troublesome.

To this you said:

Sorry, that is incorrect information.

In a perfect world yes however, I don't carry a brake lathe or grinder around in my pocket when I need to swap pads at the race track. I don't know anyone who does.

projekt1, I used RedStuffs briefly, they are nice pads, I still use greens out back, sometimes.

Yes, you should paint your calipers, they look horrible. If its any help, my rear calipers and rotors have 2 or 3 coats of Rustoleum sprayed over rust. It never burns off. The fronts burned the zinc off the rotors though...

 

[viprez586]

What track are you running that you need to swap pads at the paddock? Unless you start the event at 4-5mm and perfectly time a pitstop when you need to replace them?

Most part stores will cut rotors for you, thing is I don't know if I'd trust 95% of the idiots behind the counter though.
I'm sure no big box places like carX, firestone, midas, etc would have a problem cutting rotors for you either.

Either way, I don't really see how pads (A) residue behind on the rotor that would affect break-in when it comes to Pads (B - the same brand/model pad) versus another Pad (C).

If you were to argue that after pad-slapping your pads and rotors are glazed/improperly bedded (When using a second same set of pads). I'd tell you it was because the rotor surface wasn't flat and cross-hatched like I previously mentioned. To further reiterate what I just said I googled pad break-in procedure and found stoptech has an excellent article explaining it.
Please pay close and special attention to the "The all-important transfer layer" section.
Keyword in there is "Even". This usually isn't accomplished by pad-slapping.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

 

[underradar92]

What track are you running that you need to swap pads at the paddock? Unless you start the event at 4-5mm and perfectly time a pitstop when you need to replace them?

When one drives to the track on street pads and swaps to track pads, that is when this becomes the issue. Has nothing to do with what track I run, it's that track pads tear the shite out of rotors when they are below operating temps, making the swap at the track a necessity. I don't like losing .020" of rotor just driving to and from the track.

 

[viprez586]

Understandable.

 

[projekt1]

I inquired about RTM's brake lines, I wanted to know how many brake lines came in the kit whether it was 4 long ones or 8 like the OEM style where there is 2 lines per corner. They responded with with:

"They come as SIX lines. The rears are combined into one piece, the fronts are still 2 piece.
Ziggy"

So are there six lines in any of the other aftermarket kits as well?

 

[underradar92]

I inquired about RTM's brake lines, I wanted to know how many brake lines came in the kit whether it was 4 long ones or 8 like the OEM style where there is 2 lines per corner. They responded with with:

"They come as SIX lines. The rears are combined into one piece, the fronts are still 2 piece.
Ziggy"

So are there six lines in any of the other aftermarket kits as well?

I was under the impression that most kits had the 8 line setup. I prefer the 6 (or just 4 really) personally as I'm no fan of that little piece of hard line and the dumb bracket that is on there.

 

[projekt1]

I was under the impression that most kits had the 8 line setup. I prefer the 6 (or just 4 really) personally as I'm no fan of that little piece of hard line and the dumb bracket that is on there.

Yea exactly, thats what I was hoping I'd find, a simple 4 line kit.

 

[projekt1]

I went with EBC Red Stuff pads and RTMRacing brake lines. The lines are actually 2G front brake lines. I got 4 2G lines exactly the same for all corners in my 1G.
Old 1G caliper

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New 3KGT N/T calipers

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2G brake line compared to 1G brake line with bracket

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[underradar92]

The lines are actually 2G front brake lines. I got 4 2G lines exactly the same for all corners in my 1G.

Nice, good idea.