What 6-bolt Mods?

[Boost3d-4G63]

Hello everyone, I bought a 1997 Eclipse RS and the motor blew on me. I was on craigslist and bought a 6-bolt 4g63 from Boise. I have it on a motor stand and I want to make this thing race ready. I want about 5-600 HP without Nos, and extra with nos. I'm not short on money, so please help me get the best parts for the money. I already have a Greddy Cat-back, but I'm sure I'm gonna have to buy a downpipe to fit the turbo kit.

 

[big_d]

...and you plan on using this 4g63 in your 420A Eclipse RS?
You might want to do a bit of searching on this topic.

 

[wkmitsu]

Swapping a 4G63 into a NT 2G is almost impossible since everything is opposite. Its not a cost effective project.

 

[Boost3d-4G63]

No, i'm building the motor and as soon as that is done, I'm going to buy me a stock GS-T or GSX to drop the motor in.

 

[LiquidX]

You need to do some serious seaching. It CAN be done, but it's more of a PITA than anything and just cheaper to get a chepo 4g63t shell. More power to you if you plan on doing it though

Well in that case, just buy the internals that meet your future HP goals and. All ARP internals, all new gaskets/seals, new oil (oem) and water pump, balance shaft elimination. Stock crank is good as long as it's within spec and have it micropolished if used. What else are you asking for other than that?

 

[Boost3d-4G63]

Throttle body, header, downpipe, valves, my buddy told my wiseco pistons and Eagle H rods.. cam gears, cams, transmission, transfer case, and my friend also told me an unorthodox underdrive pulley, and stuff like that.

 

[LiquidX]

Throttle body, header, downpipe, valves, my buddy told my wiseco pistons and Eagle H rods.. cam gears, cams, transmission, transfer case, and my friend also told me an unorthodox underdrive pulley, and stuff like that.

Larger TB is not needed. The stock 1g 60mm size is sufficent. Turbo cars don't have a header/s we have a turbo manifold, the downpipe is consistant for having a full 3in+ exhust. Larger valves not needed unless it's a track only car. Wiseco pistons are just the most common piston to use and it's all preference. The Eagle rods can support up to a claimed 700hp. Adjustable cam gears aren't fully needed unless you are trying to get every little bit of power of of the upgraded cams. Stronger rebuilt transmission is a yes and not too sure about a rebuilt transfer case... The underdrive crank pully is only acceptable if you track only as it will destroy crankshafts on a DD.

You will also need a better flowing intake manifold and get a throttle body matched for it, much much larger injectors, tuning device/software, a good sized turbo for the power range you are looking for and if it's track only or not. There is a lot of stuff to do but go here and see what other people are running so you can get an idea or ask them why they run "x" part over "y" part.

 

[jrohner]

You need to post more info than "I want about 5-600 HP without Nos, and extra with nos". First things first: NO offense, but do yourself and everyone else a favor and call it nitrous not nos. That's way to The Fast and the Furious for us.

What kind of fuel do you want to run? How much do you care about spool? Do you want headroom or do you want to run maxed out on the ragged edge? How much do you want to spend?

How much EXPERIENCE do you have? If you don't have a lot, starting out with "5-600 hp" is not a good way to begin learning.

 

[TYGRR]

Throttle body, header, downpipe, valves, my buddy told my wiseco pistons and Eagle H rods.. cam gears, cams, transmission, transfer case, and my friend also told me an unorthodox underdrive pulley, and stuff like that.

Well, to start. I will let you know that going with wiseco is very "ifffffy" so to speak. I say that only because their clearances/tolerances are very inconsistent. I have purchased many types of pistons and Wiescos were on average 5-9 grams off on each one. There for they will need to be balanced by a machine shop that is rather difficult to say the least as well as pricey. Also their clearances were also off by an average a little under a thousandths of an inch. That may not seem like alot to the average builder but the weight and tolerance difference of that gravity are very unacceptable when it comes to building a mechanically sound and precision engine. I personally go with Mahle, Ross, JE. They are all a little more pricey but very precise, PRECISELY made pistons. Since money is no object go with a better part. You will be much happier in the long run.
As far as rods go, i would def go with eagle h-beam rods. As far as your pulleys you want to go with a fluidampr harmonic balancer because you dont want to be running a pulley without a "dampening system" in it because it will cause much undue stress on your crank. The side to side type force placed on your crank is much more tolerated when a dampener is involved in the mix.

When you are doing a race build you want every part you put in the motor to be a highly reliable, quality and most importantly precision part. Most parts and their quality, reliability and worth are opinionated in nature. However, when it comes to building a great motor you seriously need to take into your build what others have done, how they did it, if it failed and why, or whether it succeeded and why. Basically, learn from others mistakes and successes. If you are precise/methodical in your building you will make a killer power-house engine that will eat most if not all half-@ss builders out there as well as a motor that will last.(depending on what it is used for and how it is taken care of)

This site is plethora of great builders, expertise and information. You will pretty much find most if not all on this site that you need to make your v8 killer. Good luck to you fella. Please submit pics of your build if you get a chance. Its always nice and fun to see someone with lots of money and time do a quality strong build.

 

[skatershawn]

^ +1

Your going to need some type of system to tune with... DSMLink (most popular)!
You Don't need a a SMIM.. you can port out your stock one but a SMIM would be nice!

The Eagle H beam rods are rated to around 600whp, so to be safe i would get the I Beams!!(IF You plan on running 600+whp)
Theres a big difference in price for the H beam and I beams!

For a turbo setup... I personally would go with either a HX35 or HX40... HX40 will push Plenty of air to get you to 600hp! Get a nice t3/t4 turbo mani for it and your ready in that area!
3" exhuast all the way back is needed!!
Injectors... i would got with 1000cc's or bigger... just to make sure you have the ability to feed the air with the fuel needed to run big numbers!
Id say a rewired walbro 255lph HP Fuel pump!

Ive seen big numbers come out of a stock built head, but IMO i would rebuilt the head a bit!
and the Tranny i would get rebuilt, but if you want a DD i would get like a standard rebuilt!!

 

[Boost3d-4G63]

skatershawn - Thanks a bunch man, really appreciate it.
TYGRR- I appreciate your info as well.

This car is going to be my daily driver, but I want it so I can take it to the track on race days you know. It's cold in Idaho, and we can only race on certain days of the year, and there are very few. I want the best parts that will give me the maximum HP for a DD.