Welding V/C or Center diff opinions, and welded diff handling...

[GRNDSM]

I have said everything I needed to say in this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...ded-center-diff-daily-driver.html#post1618708

So I will not go into the pros and cons of running a locked center diff.

But I do want to bring up something from the 90's. Back then, Extreme MS ran consistent 10's on a welded VC (basically a VCE) and a STOCK, 2 spider gear center diff! I have heard from several other parties that using VCE actually put LESS stress on the stock spider gear gears, allowing people to push the limits of the stock diff much father than with the functioning VC (lets face it, people have broken them on 13 second cars!).

Personally, I have always ran Speed Desing 4 spider center diff, so I didn't get to test this theory, but has anyone actually a broken stock spider gear center diff on a VCE equipped car?

Also, bare in mind that a rotating spider gear has the same contact area as one that is standing still . And, if you stock VC hasn’t stiffened yet and you are spinning front tires, that means that more than 50% of torque is being sent through the spider gears!

Just some food for thoughts.

 

[Black_Bullet]

^ Thats the theory I was originally told, but Jon at Tre, Jack at Jackstransmissipns, and even John Shep disagreed with that saying it would be putting gears under more stress and that the only right way to do it was to weld the diff, so thats what I did not to take chances.

Ive also read your opinnions before of welded diff man, but I had solid reasons for doing it. My car was improperly towed for an illegal park at the campus back in Sept, my VC and thrust washer for the diff was trash and I was worried of breaking 2spider anyways from launching, and Iam in no position to get a 4 spider so I am just trying to be optimistic about this whole welded diff ordeal and focas more on its benefits.

 

[GRNDSM]

Jay,

Your center diff is probably hosed! So I doubt that you can get away with simply slapping VCE on it (I brought up this option because several people presented counter view point and didn’t back it up with any information). However, that does NOT mean that welding center diff is your next best option!

You can pick up a good, used center diff for around $100. Used VC can be had for another $20-$50. We are not talking about big money items here.

So do not consider the re-use of your current parts as a motivation for your decision! That would be a mistake!

If you really want it a welded center diff, weld it. But do not do it just because your center diff is busted… or because a poll tell you so… Do your research. Then, try out a welded diff (or VCE) equipped car!

You may find that you can’t stand it!

 

[Black_Bullet]

Jay,

Your center diff is probably hosed! So I doubt that you can get away with simply slapping VCE on it (I brought up this option because several people presented counter view point and didn’t back it up with any information). However, that does NOT mean that welding center diff is your next best option!

You can pick up a good, used center diff for around $100. Used VC can be had for another $20-$50. We are not talking about big money items here.

So do not consider the re-use of your current parts as a motivation for your decision! That would be a mistake!

If you really want it a welded center diff, weld it. But do not do it just because your center diff is busted… or because a poll tell you so… Do your research. Then, try out a welded diff (or VCE) equipped car!

You may find that you can’t stand it!

Oh your a little late man the diff has been welded for a week already.
In some of my earlier posts I was giving a review of what I thought about driving around with it.

My center diff and VC was kind of screwed up and I would NOT put another 2spider back on the car due to the launches, and power I am going to be making so I feel that the only other option for me would be 4 spider, and I simply do not have money for that right now.

I just dropped over 500 on a clutch setup and another 450 on 4 new tires and I am hardly making any money right now and am just a broke college student.
That is is my situation.

 

[JackM]

Also, bare in mind that a rotating spider gear has the same contact area as one that is standing still .

True, but if you keep shocking and loading the same 2 teeth on that gear over and over it will fatigue and break far quicker than one using all of its teeth.

Jack

 

[GRNDSM]

I think that rather than fatigue, it is a matter of “just the right hit”. I have broken stock gears after just a couple of 12 second launches, while others have done numerous 11 sec passes.

 

[JayRolla]

Looks like you need to get some drag slicks now to get rid of that tire spin. I find if I launch to not spin I fall out of boost just a little. If i launch and stay in boost I get tire spin all the way through 1st.

What tires did you buy?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Looks like you need to get some drag slicks now to get rid of that tire spin. I find if I launch to not spin I fall out of boost just a little. If i launch and stay in boost I get tire spin all the way through 1st.

What tires did you buy?

Falken Azenis RT 615s.
More of a roadrace/autox tire than a drag tire.
Air temp was high 40s low 50s that day, and besides I think I could hook much better at track, not really worried about it.