gmain
Probationary Member
- 10
- 0
- Feb 18, 2015
-
Bay Village,
Ohio
I've searched top and bottom for an answer to this one. I'll try and keep my explanation brief and to the point...
The current problem: When I got this car a few months ago, the clutch pedal assembly was all wonky. I discovered that the clutch safety switch was hitting the pedal incorrectly (wasn't even making contact). PO apparently at someone look at it, who apparently tried to get he pedal assembly out to get to the switch, but found out what a PITA of a job that is and gave up half way through. Instead he opted to bypass the switch entirely and ran a cable directly from the ignition switch, to the starter solenoid (poked it through steering rack boot in the firewall). I finally got around to fixing this whole mess, but I have a no start. Safety switch operates properly, starter fires, and motor cranks. Could removing that bypass have changed anything with the ignition system? There seems to be much debate on weather or not 2g dsm's have an ASD relay. It would be nice if that were the only problem, but I can't find one on my car. I also am having trouble finding an ignition system wiring diagram for my car... the one in my Haynes shows that there is an ASD, so I'm thinking the diagram is for a different car.
Perhaps unrelated: I just replaced the clutch in my '97 FWD Eclipse. The old flywheel was in really bad shape, so I went with a lightweight option (competition clutch 7 bolt flywheel). My first reaction to the car not starting was that the starter wasn't grabbing the flywheel... and maybe RRE had sent me an AWD flywheel (eek!) But during installation, I matched up the old and new to be sure I didn't encounter this problem. They seemed to be identical. is there a significant difference in diameter between AWD and FWD flywheels?
Side note: Something else worth noting is that the solenoid in the starter is not retracting after running the starter (I can see through inspection plate on bell housing that the gear stays in the out position, meshed with the flywheel teeth). At first I thought the starter went bad (coincidentally at the same time I did all this work) so I dropped in a new one... and the same thing is happening. I can get it to pop back in if I rotate the crank by hand just a slight bit. However, after running starter, the crank seems to actually get stuck, like it is seized (excessively stiff. i.e. not the hump to get past compression stroke). Once I get it past that seized point, it seems to rotate normally. Is the starter staying out simply because the engine is turning over? or could it actually be hitting the flywheel incorrectly? the flywheel couldn't be too big... FWD is the larger of the two, right?
I guess I am bad at keeping it brief. Hope I was clear enough tho. thanks for reading through.
The current problem: When I got this car a few months ago, the clutch pedal assembly was all wonky. I discovered that the clutch safety switch was hitting the pedal incorrectly (wasn't even making contact). PO apparently at someone look at it, who apparently tried to get he pedal assembly out to get to the switch, but found out what a PITA of a job that is and gave up half way through. Instead he opted to bypass the switch entirely and ran a cable directly from the ignition switch, to the starter solenoid (poked it through steering rack boot in the firewall). I finally got around to fixing this whole mess, but I have a no start. Safety switch operates properly, starter fires, and motor cranks. Could removing that bypass have changed anything with the ignition system? There seems to be much debate on weather or not 2g dsm's have an ASD relay. It would be nice if that were the only problem, but I can't find one on my car. I also am having trouble finding an ignition system wiring diagram for my car... the one in my Haynes shows that there is an ASD, so I'm thinking the diagram is for a different car.
Perhaps unrelated: I just replaced the clutch in my '97 FWD Eclipse. The old flywheel was in really bad shape, so I went with a lightweight option (competition clutch 7 bolt flywheel). My first reaction to the car not starting was that the starter wasn't grabbing the flywheel... and maybe RRE had sent me an AWD flywheel (eek!) But during installation, I matched up the old and new to be sure I didn't encounter this problem. They seemed to be identical. is there a significant difference in diameter between AWD and FWD flywheels?
Side note: Something else worth noting is that the solenoid in the starter is not retracting after running the starter (I can see through inspection plate on bell housing that the gear stays in the out position, meshed with the flywheel teeth). At first I thought the starter went bad (coincidentally at the same time I did all this work) so I dropped in a new one... and the same thing is happening. I can get it to pop back in if I rotate the crank by hand just a slight bit. However, after running starter, the crank seems to actually get stuck, like it is seized (excessively stiff. i.e. not the hump to get past compression stroke). Once I get it past that seized point, it seems to rotate normally. Is the starter staying out simply because the engine is turning over? or could it actually be hitting the flywheel incorrectly? the flywheel couldn't be too big... FWD is the larger of the two, right?
I guess I am bad at keeping it brief. Hope I was clear enough tho. thanks for reading through.
