water pump spec. tools quick Q?

[FlipDsM]

just want to know if anyone of you who have done a water pump or timing belt job know where i can get the special tools(long bolt for the tensioner arm) for this job, also that clip for the belt and the camshaft sprocket. i called Satan and ask them about it, they told me they dont carry the tools, however, they ask me to go to autozone or other autoparts, so i was like, damn if autozone and advance auto parts dont even carry a spark plugs for dsm, how could they have a spec. tool , but i still waste my time and went, so go figure.. i just got the engine set to TDC, i havent been to NAPA yet, but i'll try them first thing monday.

oh, i have to say that this job(waterpump/timing belt) so far is the harderst thing that i ever experience working on my car(know wonder satan asking me $550 bucks for it). i replaced my turbo a year ago and i have to say that it was way easier than water pump/timing belt job. i have my ACT clutch and a flywheel on the line and i dont know how hard that job is going to be. i'm guessing it's probly about the same. what do you guys think? what is harder? waterpump/timing belt job? or clutch/flywheel job?

another thing. there was a bolt that were loose and one missing. i had satan replace the timing belt when my car hit 60K miles, . the bolt that was missing was the one on the left side of center timing belt cover below the water pipe that connect to the water pump. the one that was loose was the deep bolt that goes in the middle of the cover. F*ck!ng satan. i just thought i should share....

 

[luv2rallye]

You should know better by now than to take your car to anyone you pay $ to. They all know how to do the job right but never will because thet have to get so many cars done per day or be fired. So sloppy is the word...just get it out the door. You honestly didn't know this? Well now you do. You only take it there as a last resort and even then go over everything they did when you get it back.

The long bolt for the tensioner arm is $8.55 + shipping (#MLR-MD-998738) at OTC/SPX (800-533-0492). Or you can make your own at http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbeltNOTE1.html. The clip for the belt is just a bulldog paper stack clip (eg. ACCO) gotten anywhere and the camshaft sprocket is just held with wrenches and the special tool for the tensioner pulley is not needed. BTW usually you will break the center cover if you don't remove the front engine mount stud.

I personally think a clutch/flywheel is more work than a timing belt (and I've done dozens of each) but everyone of course will always give you a different answer. The first DSM timing belt was bad but once you've done one they then are easy. That tranny however never gets any lighter.

 

[Talon007]

I have nver used the threaded rod tool, ever. You can do it without it.

The special tool that goes between the cam gears is an awesome tool to have, but not worth it if you only do the belt once. I just borrow it from work when ever I need it.

A clutch replacement will take a bit longer to do, but once you have done a couple its second nature, same with doing a Tbelt.

True the tranny never gets any lighter

 

[luv2rallye]

It's true you don't need the threaded rod tool. I have done over a dozen without it also. (I use a 90 degree long nose pliers put in the 2 holes in the tensioner pulley to tension it.) But it does make it a lot easier and faster - especially for someone who has never done it before. My last one was stubborn and took so much longer than the others that I finally broke down and bought it for the next time. You can decide. The important thing is to make sure you have that auto tensioner setting wire moving freely in the tensioner hole after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch. This will then automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and tensioner body be correct (.15 - .18 in.).

 

[FlipDsM]

thanks for the kind thoughts and advice guys, i would never get this far without people like you(dsmtuners guru's). well, after a long wasted day of looking for that stupid tools, i end up at Ace Hardware , i took the long bolt that holds the battery and match its thread to this long rod they have for $4.50(ofcourse, this is after a visit to a few auto parts), i cut it to about 8 inches long, then....whala! i have a $4.76 special tool version of the $38 dollars that this place i called, oh, and i can make 4 more tools about of this yard long rod . so, anyway, i just fulled my water pump out and i am currently examining my tensioner

but Question again...
i had every timing mark aligned until i loosen the timing belt. nothing major though, the left camshaft sprocket move(kinda jump it self) a few mm. or about one teeth, but other than that the other timing marks are still perfect. is this a bad sign? did i do anything wrong?

thanks..

 

[FlipDsM]

It's true you don't need the threaded rod tool. I have done over a dozen without it also. (I use a 90 degree long nose pliers put in the 2 holes in the tensioner pulley to tension it.) But it does make it a lot easier and faster - especially for someone who has never done it before. My last one was stubborn and took so much longer than the others that I finally broke down and bought it for the next time. You can decide. The important thing is to make sure you have that auto tensioner setting wire moving freely in the tensioner hole after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch. This will then automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and tensioner body be correct (.15 - .18 in.).

you mean by "WIRE", is this the rod that sits in the top inside part of the tensioner that moves up and down(really hard to push, i had to use c-clamp)?

 

[Talon007]

but Question again...
i had every timing mark aligned until i loosen the timing belt. nothing major though, the left camshaft sprocket move(kinda jump it self) a few mm. or about one teeth, but other than that the other timing marks are still perfect. is this a bad sign? did i do anything wrong?

thanks..

Thats the exhaust cam, it always wants to move to the left, thats normal. Just make sure the rear balance shaft (oil pump sproket) is in phase, and go to town.

Remeber refer to the VFAQ, very helpfull pictures.

 

[luv2rallye]

you mean by "WIRE", is this the rod that sits in the top inside part of the tensioner that moves up and down(really hard to push, i had to use c-clamp)?

No. This is the pin (or allen wrench) you use to temporarily hold the push rod in place (while you are installing things) that sits in the top inside part of the tensioner that moves up and down.
See http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html.
Step 12 - Fig. 8: "Insert a 1/16 inch allen wrench or similar pin {1.4 mm (.055 in.) in diameter} into the aligned holes to hold the push rod in the reset (pinned) position.". If you took the tensioner out without doing this, you will have to do it before putting back in. Use a vise or large clamp to push the rod in but go VERY, VERY slowly - I mean like wait a minute after each little movement - or you can damage the seals inside.
Step 29 shows removing the wire/pin.
Step 36 talks about "...measure the auto tensioner push rod gap with a drill bit... " (shown in the right side of Fig.21). But I have found that it is near impossible to hold the drill bit in the position necessary (can't see it and other things in the way) while trying to adjust the tension pulley at the same time. I think it's much easier if you just adjust the tension pulley till the holes in the tensioner line up (your wire/pin or allen wrench slides in/out freely), you will automatically end up with the correct push rod gap shown in Fig. 21 since one is a direct function of the other. And you can do it all from underneath without a helper. You still have to do the crank rotate and wait stuff and then re-check it and do again if not correct.