water pump changed, time belt changed, head gasket changed and now??

[RayBan GST]

hi all,

well my water pump was leaking pretty bad and i had to change it , i did a water pump change GBM i think is the brand and i changed the timing belt, balance shaft( when i open the timing belt area this belt was not even there , the balance shaft belt was not there??)

and also i changed the head gasket, brakes and i changed oil and coolant as well


now my car idles at 1.4 k and i can hear a strong sound when i am over 4k rpm its like there is a hole in the exhasut ( the sound is from the engine area) , i checked the exhaust and its fine ?? what could be the problem ( the sound of the engine is different now when i am over 4 K)

now also i feel that my car is not pulling like before its just a bit slower ??? the timing belt is fixed nicely and as per the manual ( no skipping teeth nothing)

the Oil pressure is high now its in the middle where it used to be below that ? why?
i put normal oil not synthetic this time ( 20-50 W)


the above JOB cost me $550.00 with all the parts and i hope that the above symptoms are normal ?

please let me know

oh sorry before i forget i installed as well ( EVO 8 plastic BOV) it fits directly i hope this information can help you telling me the problem.

 

[frankenstein406]

wait so there was no timing or balence belt on the car? was it ran that way? or did belts snap?

 

[cheap90gsx]

the belt could have been removed previously? did you replace the auto tensioner?

 

[RayBan GST]

yes there was no balance shaft belt in there i think it was removed and yes i changed all the tensioners

the balance shaft belt was not there ( it did not snap , it was just not there)

 

[Colt4G63 also]

That means you were running with only the rear balance shaft spinning until now? That must have been awfull. Unles the rear balance shaft has been removed, and they just left the front one in there for ease of conversion. Then NOW it must be awfull.

That noise you have, It's like a humming, or a vibration right?

You should check that, or just go ahead and remove both shafts.

 

[Strm Trpr]

First off, i've been around DSM's for 5 years now, and have done 6 timing belt jobs and as many Balance Shaft Eliminations.
I've done 4 BSE's with the motor in the car all on 2g's.

I've driven a 95 Tsi AWD with the front B-Shaft belt removed and the rear still spinning.
I did not experience any extra vibration!
Now if this same car had a full set of Prothane Urethane Motor Mounts, then I bet I would have felt some serious vibration.

This is what I think happened.
The PO just cut the belt and removed it but left the Front B-Shaft in place, and also left the rear B-Shaft spinning.

I can't really tell if a new Balance Shaft Belt was installed at this point.
And we don't know if there is in fact a Rear Balance Shaft in the block.

Here's what you do.
Since a T-Belt job has been done I'll assume you know which Timing Marks I'm referring too.
If not, here is a link on how to do a T-Belt on a 2g. Timing Belt VFAQ
Turn your crank by hand until you can align all timing marks.

Refer to the attached image.
There is screw on the intake manifold side of the block that is simply a hole to check for the rear balance shaft to be in the correct phase with the front balance shaft.
Remove this screw and use a screwdriver long enough to reach in and feel for the rear balance shaft.

If there is a rear balance shaft in there, chances are it's not in phase with the front balance shaft and you will not be able to push the screwdriver in as deep as shown in the image.
If both balance shafts are now spinning out of phase, this will be the source of your new found sounds and vibrations.
If you find the rear B-shaft still in there, you'll have to redo the T-Belt job to get the Balance Shafts into phase.

If it were me, I'd Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install eliminate the balance shafts the correct way and have peace of mind that one of your balance shafts don't do what one did to my buddies gst spyder.
It spun a B-Shaft bearing and sent metal shards thru his engine without warning and spun a main bearing on the crank.
That resulted in a complete FUBAR block!

 

[RayBan GST]

thank you very much

i will just bare the sound and the vibration , its not much but i really do not have the time and the money to do this JOB again changing all the belts again and again i will just leave it




i have found today that the PCV tube that goes to the intake is leaking ( it has a nasty crack) does it affect the performance of the car ? i will change it ASAP but i just want to know if it realy has an effect on performance ?

 

[tkelly27]

You don't have to get new belts. You actually get to get rid of one when you do the balance shaft elimination. I advise that you do it as well, that balance shaft belt is nothing but problems waiting to happen. Read some more about how to do it, I wouldn't trust a car that hadn't had the balance shafts removed. Their initials are BS for a reason : )

The balance shaft has an oiling hole in it, yours was probably stuck in the open position giving you low oil pressure. As long as it's not going into the red and the pressure responds with RPM you are fine.

I'm not sure about the PCV, mine didn't come with one.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Like mentioned above, you don't have to replace any belts.
It would suck to do a BSE right now because you would have to remove the Waterpump in order to tilt the motor enough to get the front case off with the rear balance shaft attached to the oil pump.

There is a bad side to leaving the B-Shafts in place and not it phase, you will experience vibrations. More so than if you left the front B-Shaft belt off and just keep the rear one spinning.
It is ill advised to do so, but it's much better than having both balance shafts opposing one another.

Remember, the B-Shafts spin at twice the rpm as the crank, so if you spin the motor to 7000 rpm, the B-Shafts are spinning at 14,000 rpm, not good...

If you follow that T-Belt VFAQ I linked to you, you can see that the job of getting to the front balance shaft belt really isn't that hard.

You know, come to think of it, whoever did your T-Belt job should have been able to get this straightened out.
I mean, you have to be able to get the Cam Gears, Crank Sprocket and Oil Pump Sprocket to align to their timing marks, and then you simply turn the front balance shaft by hand and align it's timing mark.
Do the check on the rear BS and make sure you can get the screwdriver in with everything aligned and you're golden.

I've always just eliminated them, so I don't really give them much thought.

As for your PCV hose and PCV.
Yes there is a significant performance loss if you have a crack in the hose that goes to your PCV Valve.
Think about it.
The turbo forces boost into the Intake Manifold causing it to pressurize.
The PCV Valve is connected to the IM with a crappy rubber hose that gets hard, doesn't seal anymore and cracks causing the mother of all boost leaks.

Get OEM PCV Valves.
All others are crap and will leak.

As for the hose, you can use fuel line.
I believe it is 1/4" or 5/16" I.D. hose, not sure, just take the old one with you and then use the old pcv hose for a length measurement.

I just did this on my car...