Wastegate Actuator pin stuck in.........

[Hondasi88]

ok my car wasn't building any boost so i checked everything and turns out the pin from the
Wastegate Actuator is stuck where it connects to the flapper......I put a small pair of grips on it to see if that works but the grips are toooo heavy and the my car wont really build any boost..
What is the best way to get this pin out?

I am really thinking about just upgrading the 1g manifold and buying a external WG.

 

[99gst_racer]

That pin is supposed to be there. Why are you trying to disconnect the actuator arm from the flapper? Am I missing something?

 

[blackGSX2g]

Yea, that pin holds the actuator arm to the flapper itself. If you are having problems building boost, do a boost leak test first.

If a boost leak test doesn't yeild any results, check for cracks in your manifold and any other pre-turbo exhaust leaks.

After you rule that out, pull the o2 housing off to ensure that your wastegate flapper is there in one piece and is sealing correctly.

 

[project_tsi]

Guys, he's trying to disonnect the arm from the flapper to see if the actuator is working properly and not stuck.

The only advice I can really give on removing the pin is to maybe break it off, remove it, then replace it with a new one or something similar. If and when you get it disconnected, pull the actuator arm up and down making sure it moves. It should have SOME resistance, but you should be able to move it in and out w/ a little hand power.

If the actuator is in good working condition, its then time to move on to other things.

Like Matt mentioned, check w/ the basics first. A boost leak test, then check for exhaust leaks before the turbo. Your options are the manifold to head gasket, and turbo to manifold gasket, or possibly cracks in the manifold or turbo housing. Im sure a compression check wouldn't hurt either.

Pull off your intake pipe and make sure the turbo is spinning freely as well. Check for cracks or leaks in your IC pipes.

Try some of these ideas and let us know. Or ask us more questions if we missed the point.

Hope this helps, Dan.

 

[oldman]

The only advice I can really give on removing the pin is to maybe break it off, remove it, then replace it with a new one or something similar.

Be careful with this. Mine broke and got stuck inside, it was not fun drilling it out.

 

[Hondasi88]

i don't know why i didn't get a email that someone responded to this thread..........anyway
when i bought the car the previous owner thought the turbo was bad because the car wasn't building boost. Well turns out the WG wasn't connected because the pin was stuck in the flapper.

I just decided to search on here and buy a manifold with an external WG flange. Which is the best and most cost effective one to buy? I wanna keep the stock DP setup
thanks

 

[99gst_racer]

i don't know why i didn't get a email that someone responded to this thread..........anyway
when i bought the car the previous owner thought the turbo was bad because the car wasn't building boost. Well turns out the WG wasn't connected because the pin was stuck in the flapper.

I just decided to search on here and buy a manifold with an external WG flange. Which is the best and most cost effective one to buy? I wanna keep the stock DP setup
thanks

It is possible to drill that pin out. I did it on an old 14b that I used to have. It was quite the job. I made a little jig out of aluminum to hold the flapper door arm still and it also helped guide the drill bit.

But if you are serious about switching to an external wastegate (and i'm sure Oldman will have something to say about it...), then the new SlowBoy Racing manifold is the way to go. They come flanged for the 38mm Tial. Don't forget you'll also have to weld the flapper shut in the turbine housing and you'd have to spend roughly $240 for the gate and flange.

 

[Hondasi88]

240 hmmm can u post a link?
thanks for your help on this!

 

[blackGSX2g]

Tial sport 38mm extermal wastegate

$209.99

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=127&

Here is a wide array of manifolds offered.

$299-649.98 (if you want the full stainless tubular WITH Tial external gate)

http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=588

 

[99gst_racer]

Yes, the best bang for the buck would be Slowboy's cast manifold that has the 38mm flange casted onto it. They also charge $210 for the wastegate as Matt posted above. And an additional $25 for the other flange needed. It will be your responsibility to fabricate your own dump tube for the gate.

 

[tygrs703]

so if the actuator doesnt move in and out, does it need to be replaced? im not building boost. my actuator doesnt move. i guess my wastegate is stuck open. do i need a new actuator?

 

[99gst_racer]

so if the actuator doesnt move in and out, does it need to be replaced? im not building boost. my actuator doesnt move. i guess my wastegate is stuck open. do i need a new actuator?

If the rod on the actuator does not move at all, then yes, it will need to be replaced. But if the rod is stuck, then it should be holding your flapper closed, causing a huge boost spike. If you can't build boost, then your flapper is blowing open. In either event, the actuator could be the culprit. You need to remove it and test it with a vacuum pump.

 

[tygrs703]

let me get into detail. on my way to work, everthing boosting normally. stock 90 tsi awd. on way home, no boost. goes from neg.7vac to 0. car drives sluggish. noticed cracked exhaust manifold. switched to 2g w all new gaskets. problen not solved. removed pin from actuator arm, the flapper moves freely, actuator arm doesnt move in and out. only rotates! is that the culprit? how do i vacuum test the actuator? cant find a detailed post. possibly any other problems? I appreciate the help, as i am new to the DSM community. the car is all stock! Oh yeah it was very hard to get the arm connected back. got it on though, but it is stiff. is it holding open the wg.

 

[99gst_racer]

The actuator actually holds the flapper closed. When the actuator sees pressure, an internal diaphram forces the rod outward and that's what open the flapper. As long as there are no pre-turbine exhaust leaks, and the actuator arm is connected to the flapper, then the only way to not boost would be if the flapper blow completely blowing open. That would be the result of a failed actuator.

But if yours is very stiff still, then it doesn't sound like it would be allowing the flapper to blow open. Are you 100% sure the actuator is connected to the flapper?

 

[tygrs703]

yes, everything is connected. i hope I dont need a new turbo