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Wastegate actuator arm won't move

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90'AWDTalonFroggy

Proven Member
226
73
Feb 1, 2014
Curryville, Missouri
So I've been suggested to post this in this section so I'm not sure if it's right but I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my motor, My goal is 4-500AWHP. But right now I just need to get it driving. But as it stands My car is mostly stock I believe the previous owner put stock parts back on. Only non stock parts are autometer boost gauge, Greddy BOV, and I just purchased an ACT streetlite flywheel and a SBC STG 1 clutch. Also I have what I believe is a S16g turbo, the model numbers don't help but can post pictures if need be. But my concern is the turbo and unsure of what I should do. Reason is Monday I mocked my motor up to make sure I had all the parts and to see if and what else I needed. I noticed that the wastegate actuator arm would not move, which I believe it should move. So with my goals in mind and my budget is 4,000. But after I buy the things I currently know I need, and having the machine work done. I believe I will have roughly 2,000 left. So should I just rebuild the turbo and clean everything up and hope it all works out. Or should I upgrade/replace my turbo now and get a MBC(which I already plan to get) and keep the boost down till I can get the other supporting mods to go along with it. If I should rebuild it I'm not sure where to get a rebuild kit at. If I get a new turbo I have been looking at the FP68hta. Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 
I can tell you now that turbo won't get it done if the 4-500whp. Are you going to be running e85 or what? I'd suggest a FP red, with a ported o2 housing.

Or a hx35 with a Bolt on dsm exhaust housing, With a external waste gate. But for now I'd go ahead and rebuild the 16g and run it till you get all the supporting mods. That's what I'm doing with my new build.
 
I can tell you now that turbo won't get it done if the 4-500whp. Are you going to be running e85 or what? I'd suggest a FP red, with a ported o2 housing.

I know it wont, but everyone always wants to know my goal so I tell, but right now its more important to just get it driving again, to me, cuz it's a need right now. But I will be running 93 pump gas, and race fuel when I know how to tune, when I am at the track. FP red hmm i've read good things with those.

Or a hx35 with a Bolt on dsm exhaust housing, With a external waste gate. But for now I'd go ahead and rebuild the 16g and run it till you get all the supporting mods. That's what I'm doing with my new build.
I hear alot of good things with the holsets but never really looked into them and IDK why, probably cuz I always think cummins when I do. Any I deas where to get the parts for a 16g rebuild?
 
Yeah it's a good turbo well fp is a good brand and make quality products. Lol yeah the fp red will give you head room too.

http://turbolabofamerica.com/mhi-14b-16g-20g-turbo-rebuild-kit/

Yeah when I look for a hx35 I usually go on my local Craigslist and find a deal there. Then go on extreme psi and buy a housing if I'm not gonna run the stock housing.
 
Yeah it's a good turbo well fp is a good brand and make quality products. Lol yeah the fp red will give you head room too.
Yea they seem like it, I've always been biased towards Garret since my old boss always ran Garrets on his cars and I've always liked the way they run. But they are to rich for my blood at this time and I'm always willing to try new things. Plus I do like the head room as I know me and when I get to my goal I know I won't stop and will keep pushing for more.

Yeah when I look for a hx35 I usually go on my local Craigslist and find a deal there. Then go on extreme psi and buy a housing if I'm not gonna run the stock housing.
Hmm Never really thought of it that way. Never been big into resale sites, but its worth a shot. Plus being on a budget it might be the way to go searching classifieds of the sort to find what I need.
 
Yeah I'm the same way, I get used to things quick. And then want more, but if I was on a budget I'd do the hx35 with a bep housing. Unless you can get a nice used FP red.

Yeah I like Craigslist BC it's local so you can go see it and check it out.
 
No problem man always here to help fellow DSM peeps. Haha but just rebuild that 16g while it's out and get what you need to make it run. Then just buy a what you can at a time till you have everything you need to make big power.
 
No problem man always here to help fellow DSM peeps. Haha but just rebuild that 16g while it's out and get what you need to make it run. Then just buy a what you can at a time till you have everything you need to make big power.

I appreciate it. I'm not new to working on motors just very new to turbos and the inner workings of it, and Performance mods in general. But it Sounds like the best Idea to me. Thank You
 
I noticed that the wastegate actuator arm would not move,
The wastegate actuator is extremely difficult to "manually actuate/move" by hand.

Look at the actual shaft play on the turbo, wiggle the compressor side to side and in/out. If you are new to tuning I would recommend you get a handle on tuning with the current s16g, then look into upgrades. Size of the turbo doesn't mean crap if you can't tune it ;). The s16g is a great little turbo and great to get you started.

Also for turbo related rebuilds/purchases you can support our "in-house" turbo expert :thumb:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/journal-bearing-turbocharger-rebuild-service.510432/
 
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If the wastegate actuator is extremely difficult to "manually actuate/move" by hand.

Look at the actual shaft play on the turbo, wiggle the compressor side to side and in/out. If you are new to tuning I would recommend you get a handle on tuning with the current s16g, then look into upgrades. Size of the turbo doesn't mean crap if you can't tune it ;). The s16g is a great little turbo and great to get you started.

Also for turbo related rebuilds/purchases you can support our "in-house" turbo expert :thumb:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/journal-bearing-turbocharger-rebuild-service.510432/
I can very minimally move the shaft side to side but no in/out movement. Yes I am new to tuning and not really looking to upgrade before having better knowledge of tuning just figure that if I was forced to get a new one I figured I'd upgrade now(so I wouldnt have to buy again when I wanted more) and keep the boost down to try and get a handle on tuning first. But I can obviously rebuild it or have it done cheaper, so in the meantime I'll go that route. But your right cars aren't crap if you can't tune it.

Thanks for the link I'll definitely look into it. I'm all for supporting our vendors/in-house experts.
 
Take the actuator off and make sure the flapper on the turbine moves back and forth. You can also use a vacuum pump and test the actuator. I loved my s16g setup was fun and fast! ;) almost into the 11's in my gst
Will do. Actually getting ready to go to the shed now to dismantle everything again to take the block and rusted cams(hopefully just surface rust and no pits) to the machine shop next week to get this build going. I liked it alot when it was running but it already wasn't fast enough for me LOL. I got used to driving ALOT faster cars when I worked with my old boss and now new boss LOL. But I'm a patient guy so I can hold off till I have supporting mods and the tuning down. I dont want to blow up my motor and have to start over it's been along time coming.
 
Take the actuator off and make sure the flapper on the turbine moves back and forth. You can also use a vacuum pump and test the actuator. I loved my s16g setup was fun and fast! ;) almost into the 11's in my gst
Well Unfortunately my flapper did not move at all, looks like I'll be getting a hold of @JusMX141 to see about getting it rebuilt or may attempt to do it myself haven't decided yet.
 
Spray it down with some pb blaster or wd40. Let it soak then with some pliers try to make it move. If that doesn't help break it loose you will most likely need a new flapper or turbine housing.
Will do, I will update with what happens. Hopefully that will work. Less I have to buy the better at this point.
 
Spray it down with some pb blaster or wd40. Let it soak then with some pliers try to make it move. If that doesn't help break it loose you will most likely need a new flapper or turbine housing.
Well I'm an idiot as last night when I went to try and move the flapper I didn't disconnect the arm. I was just focused on the flapper. (also know better then to do stuff like that when your on very little sleep) So today I removed the arm and the flapper moves as free as a free bird. So I believe it's my actuator itself that might be bad. I assume that I should get a mighty vac to test it out. Correct?
 
You will need a compressor to test the actuator, as it uses boost to open the wastegate flapper. Make sure you have a regulator as well so you don't blow out the diaphragm on the actuator.
ah gotcha if that's the case I may just wait till it's installed if I can. It may not be the right way to do it or harder. But as I currently don't have a working compressor, I may not have much of an option.

Everything you've described so far it sounds like there's nothing wrong with the actuator to begin with
I really hope your right. I'm not trying to waste anybodies time, just trying to make sure I have everything or as close as I can to everything in order before I install my motor.
 
You can use a mighty vac and it's safer there's it can push and suck air. ;) just have to hold the release switch while you pump. Also how is your boost source hooked up to the wastegate?
I'll try it, I need to get one anyways regardless. So I might as well go ahead and do it. What do you mean hooked up to my wastegate? everything is currently 100% dissassembled. Are you meaning how is it going to be hooked up?
 
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