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Viper car alarm

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DakotaPSI

15+ Year Contributor
56
0
Feb 21, 2006
Minot, North Dakota
My girlfriends mom has a 200x ford taurus with a viper car starter on it. when i hit start on the key fob, the lights blink and the fans come on and right when it wants to start up all the electronics die, i can do this whenever i want.. I put the car in neutral, put the ebrake in, and remove the key.. i now hit the start button and it starts right up¿¿¿¿???
 
I'm not exactly sure what you said but all remote starts have a sensor to make sure the car is in neautral before it will start. Otherwise the car can launch. I've read about someone with a brand new mustang remote starting the car into a wall :) Is her car auto or manual?
 
I know that there is the same type of thing in an automatic that will only allow you to start your car in neutral or park. When it started in neutral i kind of ruled out that that sensor would be it. could it be a relay in the starter?
 
It sounds to me like who ever installed it may have used a voltage starter instead of tapping into the tach. What do you think? Make sure you used both Accessories...that car has 2 (grey with yellow and black with light green) Also the U bypass module make not be programmed right or exactly where it should be. Even if its a hair off, it will not work right. Is the key inside programmed to the car? With remote starts, there's a lot that can be causing those symptoms. Double check the things I said, those are usually the big problems.
 
Well the starter has worked great for like 1 year now and all the sudden this happend, it is a chipped key. Wait. when i had it in neutral the key was in the ignition, ill try it with the key out and see what happens, If i remember right, when they install with a chipped key, they have to tape a key under the dash or somethin like that so that it reads it.. maybe it fell off???
 
so, if what you're saying is that when the starter cranks and the car is ready to start, everything dies....... it may be the hood pinswitch. only thing is that i'm going to need some more info. first, verify that my assumption above is correct. if so, without touching any of the buttons on the transmitter, does the car try to start a second or third time? i ask this to eliminate the fact of the voltage or tach sense being the problem. if the car doesn't start the first try, DEI remote starts (viper, python,hornet,clifford...etc...) will try a second time. if the second time is unsuccessful, it will try a third time. if that doesn't work, it will exit the remote start program and just sit there as normal. If the vibrations from the engine trying to start cause the crappy pinswitch that DEI supplies to vibrate a little because it's not adjusted properly or that it has a layer of rust on it (which is very common), it will kill the remote start sequense. that means that it will not attempt to start the second or third time. the thing you tried with the parking brake and the car in neutral kinda throws me off a little, but it is possible that having the rear wheels locked up is causing less vibration of the car when the engine is trying to start. The immobilizer could also be the problem, but I doubt it. The ford needs a 555U or a 556U, both requiring the use of an additional "spare" key that is placed inside of the module. in the case of the taurus, they would have used the transponder ring that goes around the tumbler. If that fell out of place it could cause the car to not start, but the remote start would not know that so, it would attempt to start the second and third time. Let me know the answer. If what i'm saying makes sense to you, try this....... open the hood, find the hood pin, press it down with your finger all the way and try to remote start the car. If this works, the pin is either misadjusted or coverd with rust causing it to see a ground signal when it shouldn't be. if that doesn't work, take the female connector off of the bottom of the pin and hold onto it so that it doesn't touch a ground. then try to remote start the car. if it works, get a new pin switch because that one is shot. if it doesn't work...... you've got bigger problems than I can help without being able to get at the car myself. I've been installing these things for about 9 years now and know all.... well, most of their little problems. Hope i could be of some help. Make sure you post up if you find the problem. If you need anymore help, try www.the12volt.com and post up your problems with a lot of details and any troubleshooting you've done in their forums and you WILL get a lot of input from a bunch of very experienced installers.
 
tach not programmed....hood pin grounded or neutral safety wire not seeing ground could be the problem too
 
okay, maybe your being misinformed on my behalf. When i say it dies, i meant that the engine doesnt crank or anything, im talking about the electronics. When I hit the start button on it the headlights flash the inside electronics come on ( like the fan or whatever else is turned on) then when it gets to the point where it should turn on it just stops and sits there like nothin happened, all lights off. But when i tried with the key in the ignition and the car in neutral, then car started up which leads me to beleive that it is the anti theft device that deals with the transponder chip in the key. Like i stated earlier i know that some places make a copy of the key with the transponder and all and tape it under the dash by the reader so it will allow the car to start up??? Is it possible that this came loose or maybe a relay is burnt out??
 
if the transponder isn't working properly, the car should still crank. if you try to start a car with that has an immobilizer built in with a key that is not coded for that car, it will still crank but the ecu will do a fuel or a spark cut on the engine which in turn doesn't let it start. could be the starter disable relay not getting an ignition signal from the remote start causing it to stay open......... but that all depends on how the installer wired it. that i can't say. is this system an alarm/remote start or a "valet" remote start/keyless entry system? do you know the model of the system?

The problem with trying to diagnose this problem without being able to see the car is that we can't look at the wiring or test any of the wires with a DMM while the remote start is going through it's start up routine to see if the relays are reciving the proper signals from the system "brain" and giving the proper signal out to the car. I really wish i could help out more than i am. and sorry about that last post, you did state that the car died before and then worked with the key in the ignition...... that was my mistake. was the ignition turned to the on position or just in the ignition switch? sorry, one of those questions i gotta ask.

oh, and the neutral safety switch is out of the question too because that is one of the preflight checks that the remote start does before it goes into it's start sequence.... just like the hood pin.
 
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