*VIDEO* Did I spin a bearing or something worse?

[BoredOutaMyMind]

Warning, this post is long, only because I try to be as thorough as possible

Alright lets start at the beginning........

I bought this car about a year ago, replaced the clutch about 8 months ago (mods are in profile) with OEM TOB etc etc, torqued down to specs with loctite.

I have changed the oil 3 times now (I have only put about 5k miles on the car, bringing the total to ~95k miles) using synthetic oil.

I THINK around 2 months ago I missed a shift from the top of 3rd to 2nd (not doing anything stupid like racing, simply trying to pass on a 2 lane road) and it scared the scheisse out of me but I never noticed any side effects from the poor shift.

Then about 2 weeks ago I got stupid and was driving my car pretty hard, reving up to about 6k-6.5k(MAX) a couple times. And now I have this awful noise coming from where I believe is my valvecover.

I noticed this noise only between shifts because it was a very metallic *pingy* sound that resonated after I shifted, almost like I had not let off the gas properly between shifts.

The sound does not go away, and seems to increase with engine RPM. I've parked it and plan to start trouble shooting right away. I have not had time to drain the oil, cut the filter, or remove the oil pan to check for flakes because it has been raining constantly.

HOWEVER, the sound greatly decreases in volume and intensity when I hold in the clutch (which I couldn't show in the video because I was alone). But the "rattle" is still there when I rev the engine with the clutch in.

The sound almost sounds like something is loose behind the intake manifold and is vibrating. My first thought was the semi-recent clutch job I did, but there seems to be almost no vibration from the tranny/bellhousing. If I hold my hand on the valvecover while the revs drop, I believe I can feel a slight shutter from the engine, but I cannot be certain. A friend of mine who relatively has a decent knowledge of car mechanics said he thinks the #1 piston is slapping around.

Any ideas to what this could be? (Please don't state an answer without a way to verify or narrow the problem down) And is removing a spark plug while the engine is running actually a way to check for a spun bearing? And if so, do I try to rev the engine while the plug is removed?

Is there any possibility this is a spun balance shaft bearing? I will attempt to get a better camera to record the sound, my cellphone sucks.

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[BoredOutaMyMind]

Oh I found a video of another car that has very similar problems to me and the metallic clicking that you can hear in the video is almost identical to mine, but you can hear my engine click standing outside the car.

How do you find a spun rod bearing? - SVTPerformance

 

[GOT-AWD]

yeah thats a spun rod bearing!! for sure....ive heard that before.....bosses kid ran his eclipse out of oil!! Id drop the oil pan and have a peak....youll probly see a rod bearing hanging out the side of the rod at the journal!

 

[XilArAtiNG]

Really sounds like a spun rod bearing. It seems to run fairly smooth though, usually that doesnt happen but it may just be your engine.

Dont run it anymore because you will spread metal shavings throughout the motor and damage camshafts, oil pump and etc...if you havent already. Drop the pan and find the presents!

 

[BoredOutaMyMind]

Sooo, if it is a spun rod bearing, whats the best/worst case scenario that im lookin at right now? And can I reuse the spun bearing? jk

I'm guessing at the very least I will have to check my crankshaft at a machine shop or get a new one, should rods be replaced as well?

 

[lacroixdp]

Unless you are planning on internal upgrades, it would be cheaper, faster, and easier to drop a JDM engine or a junkyard engine in there. As far as the sound, I can't hear it clear enough on my crappy netbook to tell what it is

 

[Jeff99GS]

Its hard to tell from the video but it sounds almost like a Bad harmonic dampener. They Separate and wobble causing it to rattle on the timing belt cover and sound just like your video. I had the same thing happen to me.

It could still be a Rod bearing , but check the Harmonic dampener first to see if its in 2 pieces. Its real easy to check that first before dropping the oil pan.

Just remove the driverside wheel and tire, then remove the plastic belt gaurd. You will see the Crank pulley (Harmonic Dampener) right there. Now grab it and try to wiggle it. If its LOOSE at all then its BAD. If its not loose then you have a spun Rod bearing.

 

[BoredOutaMyMind]

Unless you are planning on internal upgrades, it would be cheaper, faster, and easier to drop a JDM engine or a junkyard engine in there. As far as the sound, I can't hear it clear enough on my crappy netbook to tell what it is

There is no way I am putting a used engine in there, I no longer trust anyone's work but mine.... What's to say that Ebay motor has 40k on it, versus 140k? It only needs to run for the 1-2 months they "warrant" it for.

 

[mattdev]

Or, you could rebuild it yourself... and do a stock rebuild for next to nothing

 

[BoredOutaMyMind]

Well it's been a while but I've gotten my oil pan off and took pictures. Nothing looked too bad (I haven't taken off the bearings yet). But what I am really worried about is a hissing noise when I turned the crankshaft to check timing. Is this normal? It seemed to be coming from the passenger side.

Is it possible that my rings are bad? Would that be contributing to the noise I've heard? The spark plugs were in the car when I turned the crank.

 

[magna]

The hissing noise it the compression escaping (I think you know that). The rings by design cannot seal 100%. Its normal to have that sound. If you are not sure, you can do a compression test.
In your case it would be useless, as you might be looking at a complete rebuild.

 

[rush2252]

id say spun rod bearing as well... the reason the sound lessens when you press the clutch is because your removing the load from the motor. Most of the time a knocking rod can be heard when you rev slightly around 2500 and let it fall back to idle. I would assume your a victim of crank walk. 90% of all 2gs were affected by this when manufactured. It was a flaw in the matching of rods/mains to the crank. Tolerances were incorrect and it allows the crank to actually float side to side on the journals causing excessive wear to the rods and mains. I would drop the oil pan and remove the rod cap structure and take a peak. I recently rolled in rods and mains w out removing the crank on my 95 awd tSi it took about 2 hours and the car had 138k on the original bearings. Sometimes.. and I say sometimes you can simply roll in new bearings IF and only IF the journals arent scored. This is the cheapest quickest fix. and correct me if im wrong but the 4g63 have forged rods unlike the NT's cast rods so they are less likely to stretch. BUT you can have the rods resized and rebulid it yourself. hope this helps