The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Vibrating when slowing down from 40 and up.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JMiller

15+ Year Contributor
684
1
Jun 30, 2007
Irmo, South Carolina
When i slow down from anything over 40mph the whole front of the car vibrates/shakes and the brake peddle vibrates also, only when being pressed at 40 or more. All lugs are tight all weights are on. Also the harder the brake is pressed the harder it vibrates/shakes. I recently had a new clutch/flywheel and tranny put in and was wondering if the allignment could be the problem because i know they have to undo all that stuff when putting in a tranny. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.:dsm:
 
You can't just look at the rotors and "SEE" that they are warped. The runout would be in tenths, hundreths, or even thousandths. You would need to use a run out gauge, to see if your rotors are warped. To see what i'm talking about, go to google.com, click images, and type in brake run out gauge. You will see what I am talking about.

To fix this, you will need to have the rotors turned, if you have enough metal to do so. (would have to refer to a brake spec guide after using a brake micrometer) If so, most auto parts stores can turn them for you and they should be able to tell you if they can turn them or not. (In case you don't have all these handy tools available) If they can't be turned, buy new rotors. You can either shave the new pads or buy new pads to put in.

FYI - If you shave the new pads make sure they fit flush against the rotor, otherwise you could start grooving from the rotor only touching one part of the pad. (if the pads have worn uneven)

Also it would typically be just the front two rotors that warp as they provide most of your braking power.
 
I have had all the wheels off the car and none of the rotors looked warped, glazed yes warped no but the pads did look kind of low:dsm:

Unfortunately you can't tell a rotor is warped by "looking" at it. It could be warped by less than 1mm and you can't see that with the naked eye.

The problem could also be in your steering components but I don't know enough about them to help you out.

I still think having the rotors checked out or replaced is the way to go. I've owned 2 Talon's so far and BOTH vibrated under braking. I replaced the rotors on both talons and the vibration went away immediately.

Just some food for thought. Cheers, Tom.
 
You can't just look at the rotors and "SEE" that they are warped. The runout would be in tenths, hundreths, or even thousandths. You would need to use a run out gauge, to see if your rotors are warped. To see what i'm talking about, go to google.com, click images, and type in brake run out gauge. You will see what I am talking about.

To fix this, you will need to have the rotors turned, if you have enough metal to do so. (would have to refer to a brake spec guide after using a brake micrometer) If so, most auto parts stores can turn them for you and they should be able to tell you if they can turn them or not. (In case you don't have all these handy tools available) If they can't be turned, buy new rotors. You can either shave the new pads or buy new pads to put in.

FYI - If you shave the new pads make sure they fit flush against the rotor, otherwise you could start grooving from the rotor only touching one part of the pad. (if the pads have worn uneven)

Also it would typically be just the front two rotors that warp as they provide most of your braking power.


LOL You beat my post by one minute.
 
Your first question: No most likely you should only need to do the fronts.

Second Question : All I have to say is, Do it once, Do it right. If the car has been sitting for awhile, the rotors may be rust pitting and would only decrease their performance. Would it really hurt you just to turn the front rotors or if need be, buy new front rotors. They aren't THAT expensive.
 
Do it once, Do it right

Do you really want to have to pull apart the brakes again in another month to replace pads again?

I would agree, I have been there. Yet, I have learned that it's cheaper and easier to do just do it right the first time around. Trust me, I took the cheap, easy route when i was 16 and I have paid for it.
 
Good point. I used to be able to do all the work for free when i was in tech but im not there anymore so i have to pay someone to turn the rotors. Once again thanks for all the help ill get the front rotors turned and get new pads and let you know if that fixed the problem.:thumb:
 
Check out r1concepts.com they have good deals on rotors and pads. I got mine there and I love them. I got the 4 rotor + 4 pad combo for like 170. Tom.
 
Turns out my pads are practically new and when i got my rotors turned the guy told me they were horrible it took over an hour and a half to turn the pair, but i got it done for free because i know the guy that works there.Didnt get them back on yet because it got to dark so ill put them on in the morning and take it for a drive. Thanks AGAIN for the help.:thumb: :dsm:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top