vacuum question

[EclipticalGS]

well, my car will sometimes vacuum -15 at idle, and when i turn on my lights and radio, the alternator squeels and the vacuum goes down to -10 every time. So anyway, when i rev the car up slowly, the vacuum will climb to -20, until i hit WOT and then the vacuum gauge will shoot super fast to 0 vacuum. What does that mean?? I thot that idle, when the TB was closed, means that -15 vacuum is there, then when you rev up slowly and the TB opens a little the vaacuum should decrease all the way to 0 right??? Well my vacuum will got to sometimes -25 vacuum while gas pedal is pressed like 20% just revving slowly.
Is that normal, and why the alternator squeel when accesories are on?? Thanks!

PS>>>My Cold air intake is soooo loud. Its so loud i cant even explain, my car smells like unburnt fuel, so the ecu is trying to make up for all the fuel, and adds more air???
Its getting worse to

 

[spawn87]

well first of all have you gotten any CODES from your engine?

does the car idle fine?

you might need a new o2 censor as far as the fumes and intake go.

as for your gauge if its affected by your alternator you may have bad wiring if its electronic gauge... and i would have your alternator checked also might be on its last leg.

let us know how it goes.

 

[EclipticalGS]

the car idles like ass. the alternator belt squeels when lights go on, and the vacuum gauge works off suction, not electronic, so should the gauge be increasing vacuum while revving up?

hwen the lights do go on and the alt belt does squeel, its like the car runs worse, and idles crappier when lights are on. the vac goes down with idle.

 

[95'RS-T]

the car idles like ass. the alternator belt squeels when lights go on, and the vacuum gauge works off suction, not electronic, so should the gauge be increasing vacuum while revving up?

no the gauge should go down when revving and 0 at WOT and then if you had turbo it would go to press and however many psi of boost you running.


EDIT: also try either tightening or replacing that alt belt or alt and belt

 

[EclipticalGS]

the belt has been replaced 3 times within the last month, it eats my stuff because the alternator sits a little cockeyed again. The alternator only squeels when there are consumptions of power taken, like the brights on....Or even my heat fan turned on will make it squeel. Etc.

Why does my intake sound like a jet and fuel unburnt, could this all be linked to a new alternator and 02 sensors for the fuel??

 

[garrek11]

make sure your o2 sensor is hitting your manifold sometimes it heats up the wires and makes that happen. at least thats what happen to mine try that then maybe take your alternator into a shop that tests it for free and make sure it is in good shape.

 

[Stone'S GSX96]

make sure your o2 sensor is hitting your manifold sometimes it heats up the wires and makes that happen. at least thats what happen to mine try that then maybe take your alternator into a shop that tests it for free and make sure it is in good shape.

I agree with him def about the alt. Its probley bad!

 

[EclipticalGS]

ok ill do the alternator, but what do you mean make sure my 02 sensor is hitting my manifold, it's screwed in right where the headers go 1 chamber/collector, right before my cat. It's ###### old, but its hooked up to a a/f gauge, narrow band. it smells rich, and looks rich on the gauge, but i cant trust narrow.

 

[garrek11]

ya thats right sorry i forgot you had a 2g. but it still could be getting too hot which will send different codes to the computer to make it run richer

 

[EclipticalGS]

yeah dude, i just replaced the 02 sensor and reset the ECU, and nothing happened.

Now im down to the Coil pack, Map sensor, Alternator. Unfortuantely.

Ive been getting EGR codes, and random misfire codes.

Could the EGR really affect idle?!

 

[garrek11]

Either that or even a TPS ohm them to see the resistance first before you get ahead of yourself.

 

[EclipticalGS]

ive replaced the IAC, Crank Position sensor, Plugs/wires several times, Vac lines, and 02 sensor.

### i havent replaced : TPS, Coil-pack, Map sensor, Alternator, EGR valve (egr code CEL im getting) and lastly the CAS.

The air filter is super loud, car is really jerky at low speeds, misfires, sputters on decelleration, idles very poorly.

Can someone tell me how i can quickly check timing? The redneck owner before did a head gasket an he said he was in a hurry with the timing belt, so i think it may be the problem. Yikes!!!

 

[jrohner]

Sounds like you got your belt from NAPA to me.

 

[EclipticalGS]

nope, ive gotten gatorbacks from autozone, and one from NAPA, the NAPA lasted the longest.

 

[spawn87]

if the car has been doing this since you bought it then the timing is bad and you could have already mest up some internals...i hope not .... but get that looked at theirs write ups on how to do that...

and get the alternator changed the lack of electricity in your cars components will screw with your sencors and cause all sorts of problems.

 

[Jeff99GS]

First off -15 in hg Vacuum is NOT right at idle you should be -20 or so. I would do a Boost leak test ASAP and check your base timing by lining up the timing marks on the CAMS and crank.

I had a similar issue where the person I bought my car from had the T-belt done at a shop. Well they timed the car 1 tooth off on both cams. It made the car have about 10 in hg of vacuum and it idled like I had a set of 280 cams in it haha.

CHECK THE TIMING and do a BOOST LEAK TEST then report back


And as for the squeeling....IT might not be the belt at all. Check the Harmonic Dampener (crank pulley) they are made of 2 pieces with rubber in between. When this rubber fails the Pulley squeels terribly. Search for Harmonic Dampener.

 

[EclipticalGS]

the car is n/t. the car is gettin an EGR cel code and a random miscire. it idles like a champ at times, and somtimes it sucks, so i thnk its a valve or sensor. if it were timin, it wld always idle bad

 

[Stone'S GSX96]

Do you know anyone with the same car. So you could talk them in to borrowing there EGR.

 

[Jeff99GS]

the car is n/t. the car is gettin an EGR cel code and a random miscire. it idles like a champ at times, and somtimes it sucks, so i thnk its a valve or sensor. if it were timin, it wld always idle bad

DOES NOT MATTER. A Boost leak test will find Vacuum leaks as well. Presurrize the intake track to about 3-4 psi and listen or spray soapy water to find leaks. Vacuum leaks will make any car, whether Turbo or NON turbo idle like shit.

Could be a leak around the EGR gasket.

15 in hg Vacuum is still NOT right for a N/T. You have a leak somewhere or your timing is off.

 

[garrek11]

he is right about the vacume making your car idle like shit it should be at 20 however that wont make your car put codes out. try what i said its fast and easy.