1G Use thicker oil after oil cooler delete? 10w40?

[jared_gibbs]

My lines were leaking and I haven't been able to locate the correct part so the delete is necessary for now. I school and work full time so time to work on it is minimal and so is cash. I plan to put an aftermarket oil cooler in when resources permit.

After the delete I got a pretty nasty lifter tick. I even have the 3G lifters. The tick goes away after I rev up. And returns when rpm's drop, 3kish? I'm assuming the oil is too thin due to extra heat and can't build pressure well. I read decent pressure on my gauge.

Hope I didn't burn up a lifter or worse.

I'm thinking switch to 10w40 until the cooler goes back in?

I'm pretty sure the delete is related as it didn't tick for several weeks after I rebuilt the motor then a couple days after the delete it started ticking. I only drive about 5 miles/day.

Oil level is full.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[slugsgomoo]

Can't tell if you have a 90 or a 91. Was it the water oil cooler or air to air? Did you swap the housing?

With the water based oil cooler, it's real function is to bring the oil to temp faster, but it doesn't really cool the oil since ideal oil temps are ~180F and water is ~200F... A heavier oil should increase, not decrease tick, the interesting question is why are you getting tick at idle but not at higher RPM. Do you have a pressure gauge?

 

[jared_gibbs]

I'm a 90 so air cooled. I don't have a pressure gauge other than what's on the cluster.

When I drive for about 10 minutes at slightly higher rpm's (maybe where an automatic would shift in "power" mode") the tick quiets and even goes away. This lead me to think it has something to do with oil pressure and lubrication in the head.

I put a new turbo oil feed line on and got that sealed up. The oil return line has been leaking for a while. Could that have anything to do with it? Leaks enough to where if I boost much by the time I get home from school (3 miles) I'll see smoke from oil hitting the exhaust. Yet another shockingly spendy part. [DOUBLEPOST=1409868840][/DOUBLEPOST]Also I would think oil too thick OR thin would cause tick, no?

I did an oil change after I deleted the cooler and replaced with 5w30 when I had been running 10w30. It was the only cheap stuff they had on the shelves at the moment and I figured I'll be changing in another 500 miles anyway (young motor) so whatever. That's when the tick came on so it makes sense they're related.

I'm thinking oil temp will be higher so 10w40 might thin out to where it should be. I know the community frowns upon cheap hacking like this and it makes me sick to do it after spending soooooo much time and cash to rebuild it but I'm tapped out and don't have a choice. I've still gotta order that $100 oil return line.

 

[Brandon Mau]

You shouldn't run anything lower than 10-30 as per OEM specifications. Now people convert to forward facing housings which unless they add an external oil cooler there isn't one (air cooled or water cooled). I don't see how removing the external oil cooler would lower pressure if anything it should raise it slightly were talking a few p.s.i because it doesn't have to travel as far. Least path of resistance. And are you running a 16g?

 

[jared_gibbs]

Nope, just a 14b. I'm pretty much stock.

I wasn't concerned about oil pressure as much viscosity. I'm thinking extra heat=thinner oil therefor use a thicker oil.

 

[Brandon Mau]

I would at least put in 10w-30. I was just referring to the ticking sound and oil pressure. My lifters are noisy until they warm up and after I drive it's quiet but I think the forged pistons assist the sound. But you should check out jnztuning for your oil return line and gasket or extremepsi don't spend $100.

 

[athlete3344]

Definitely use 10w-30 and see if the ticking is still there. Also, a return line is super cheap, like 12 or 25$. I think the 2g return line is cheaper and can be easily modded to fit the 1g. Make sure to order two new gaskets.

 

[jared_gibbs]

Alright I'll try switching out to 10w30.

JNZ has an excellent kit but it is about $100. I haven't found the 2 g's for much cheaper and then you still have to get crush washers 'n shit too. I'll go with JNZ, they've been the best supplier so far. The guy that usually answers the phone (always get the same guy somehow) is super helpful. He always makes sure that I have all the other BS parts that I need where the other vendors could give a rat's if my project has to wait another week plus another $10 shipping fee.

Thanks for the help!

 

[NY 95 TSI AWD]

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17939&cat=0&page=1

Awesome price and awesome company. Like already stated though, you will have to slightly mod this 2g return.