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URGENT! Need help with clutch install!

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AllShallPerish

10+ Year Contributor
202
1
Oct 29, 2010
St Augustine, Florida
97 GST with 7bolt,

Clutch went out last week i got it towed to a shop to install a new one..

They just called and said they have the new clutch installed but there is an inch of extra room between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder, with the pedal depressed all the way the cylinder wont hit the fork.

They are a major transmission shop and they said they never seen anything like this before. All the parts match up and its not fitting, he said the clutch fork is no where near the slave cylinder.

What can cause this? He thinks the fork is too short..

he wants me to call him back and help him figure this out because they are stumped.

Thanks
 
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Did they replace the fork and pivot ball?

Is the master cylinder oem or auto parts store brand?

The auto parts store brands pushrod is like 1/2 to 1 inch shorter than oem and can cause the problem your describing.
 
Did they replace the fork and pivot ball?

Is the master cylinder oem or auto parts store brand?

The auto parts store brands pushrod is like 1/2 to 1 inch shorter than oem and can cause the problem your describing.

I'ver never heard of that.


On a better another note is it possible to installe the slave cylinder on the "wrong side" like on the 1gs. On a 1g putting it on the slave cylinder on the wrong side is opposite. I've done it once. For the life of me I could not figure out why my rod would not compress enough to fit in the fork. Once I figured it out, it was a DUH! moment.
 
I'ver never heard of that.


On a better another note is it possible to installe the slave cylinder on the "wrong side" like on the 1gs. On a 1g putting it on the slave cylinder on the wrong side is opposite. I've done it once. For the life of me I could not figure out why my rod would not compress enough to fit in the fork. Once I figured it out, it was a DUH! moment.


I have had this issue. I replaced my clutch and got a new slave from O'Rileys and the push rod was too short. I then returned it and went next door to advance and had the same issue. Ended up going to the dealership and getting an OEM. (you can yell at me later for trying the wal-mart of auto parts later) :D
 
I used advanced auto slaves for years and never a problem with them, and ive, never used a oem master cylinder and never a problem with them for many many years on my dsms, did you adjust the linkage, or rod in the car. I thought i had to pivot it but i just needed to adjust the rod under the dash easy fix. And never used oem parts in that area except for the tob.
 
I'ver never heard of that.


On a better another note is it possible to installe the slave cylinder on the "wrong side" like on the 1gs. On a 1g putting it on the slave cylinder on the wrong side is opposite. I've done it once. For the life of me I could not figure out why my rod would not compress enough to fit in the fork. Once I figured it out, it was a DUH! moment.

Let me rephrase that "Some come like that"
 
FFS This is starting to get out of hand...

My car has been in the shop for 2 weeks for a clutch install? I am getting pissed, They called me this morn and said they cant figure it out, so they said they want me to buy a new flywheel and see if it works?! WTF


Can anyone get me the minimum thickness, the flywheel can be?
 
Your shop is operating outside their expertise. The problem is likely not the clutch or the flywheel. I mean, so long as it's mounted properly and by the sounds of it it's the same flywheel your car has always had so I can think of no reason that just getting a new one will solve anything.

What was it, exactly, that failed on your old clutch? That could tell us more about your current circumstance.
What clutch are you trying to have installed? Do you have the part number?
What parts are being replaced? What parts are being reused?
Could you also fill in your vehicle profile?
How old are the fork and pivot ball? If they are not brand new or they are high mileage, order up some new ones from extremepsi or the like.

Also, the information regarding the slave rod lengths is correct. I have 7 different sizes of slave cylinder rods.

Go grab your old slave out of the trash bin (or just off the top of my work bench - for some reason I keep things like that) and yank out it's push rod. Insert the old rod into the new slave. This, at least will cross the slave off your list and cross off your hydraulics altogether so long as the master is healthy and properly adjusted.

I don't know how thick a flywheel should be but step height ought to be .608"-.612" with a happy medium of .610".
Here is what RRE has to say about it: ".608" to .610" is ideal for DSM performance clutches. Up to .613" will work. Do not try to use anything shallower than .608" Stock is .612" Our flywheels come stepped to .609" to .610" always. Yes this works with all the clutches that we sell, we are smart like that, having our flywheels work with our clutches :) "


EDIT: Can you get any pictures of it? Any shots of how far away the rod is from the fork and where the fork is sitting in the inspection window? The fork's position in the inspection window often tells a lot about the story.

I'll be subb'ed to this. My first ever subscription to a thread... if it notifies by email, however,

Checking email is worse than mowing the lawn.
 
Regardless to the length of the rod the slave should keep extending until the rod meets the fork. There is nothing to pull the slave back to inside to hold it from coming out.
 
OK i went over there and looked it it, I did take some pics i will upload them later.

Here is what i took away from it,

Its not a hydraulic issue, the rod is in the correct position. Its not extended out as previously thought. The rod meets up with the fork, it just wont move it..

The fork is sitting at an angle, there is about a quarter inch of movement, it is hitting on something. I think it is probably the pivot ball/ fork.

The car is a 97 GST with 90k miles. The clutch failed while driving in traffic. It felt like i lost hydraulic pressure, i couldnt shift into gear. I pushed it into a parking lot and looked underneath it. There was no loss of fluid, so i started it again and heard a spring floating around. When they took it apart, he did say a spring came off, but the clutch was toast anyway.
 
Have you checked the master cylinder for leaks under the dash at the clutch pedal? Maybe it's leaking bad enough that it's not pushing the rod at all.
 
He tried moving the fork manually and it wont budge, Its getting caught on something. He thinks the Shift fork is too long, or the flywheel is too thick...

Everything was taken apart when i got there, so i just took pics of the parts...

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I was under the impression that you can't move the fork manually. I mean, that'd be some real muscle.

So how many problems are they saying we have now? Is it that the fork is obstructed or is it that the slave doesn't reach?
Can You post up a measurement of your slave rod? I've never seen a short rod actually cause this problem, that would be a short rod indeed.

I might be mistaken, but the fork might need to be checked while the tranny is mocked-up. Otherwise, I wish I knew sooner that you didn't have to do that LOL
 
It was miss communication, the slave rod is fine, its the clutch fork is stuck.. Its getting jammed on something. It is pressed up against the ToB with no room to move...

They said they are going to give up on it...
They are still charging me for the clutch install, even though it doesn't work...
 
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So this shop did a regular old clutch install?

After it is all together it wont go into gear?

I was under the impression that you can't move the fork manually. I mean, that'd be some real muscle.

So how many problems are they saying we have now? Is it that the fork is obstructed or is it that the slave doesn't reach?
Can You post up a measurement of your slave rod? I've never seen a short rod actually cause this problem, that would be a short rod indeed.

I might be mistaken, but the fork might need to be checked while the tranny is mocked-up. Otherwise, I wish I knew sooner that you didn't have to do that LOL

The fork is movable with a big pair of pliers....
 
It was miss communication, the slave rod is fine, its the clutch fork is stuck.. Its getting jammed on something. It is pressed up against the ToB with no room to move...

They said they are going to give up on it...
They are still charging me for the clutch install, even though it doesn't work...

Oh. Well damn, dude.
I'd have a hard time swallowing that if I signed papers for a clutch install, and didn't receive a clutch install.

Those guys aside, what are you going to do about the car?
There's also still these: "What clutch are you trying to have installed? Do you have the part number?
What parts are being replaced? What parts are being reused?
Could you also fill in your vehicle profile?"
 
I have ran into odd problems with pressure plates, even new ones over the years.
All though super rare, what brand replacement is that?
They better be sure it's not their replacement clutch set.
That 6 puck disc really dont look like it's totally gone to me :hmm:
How about a pic of the pressure plates & the diaphram spring/hat sides.
 
CRANK WALK!! haha jk.. i work on superdutys and sometimes the fork will break.. or get bent..also maybe the snout that the TOB rides on has a nick and it wont slide? compare TOB thicknesses too.. take a picture of the fork from the side if you can... but also like they are saying.. what clutch are you using.. you should compare every piece replaced with the new.. ive seen the pressure plate fingers be at a different height.. so it takes more of an angle on the fork to get the TOB to the finger.. but by then the fork tip hits the pressure plate or is just at too much of an angle


the clutch he took out has a spring out of it.. sound like it could have gotten in the way of something.. could have caused your master cylinder for your clutch to blow out.. i have seen that done before
 
Looks like a shit ass throw out bearing in the pic. Get an oem one, hell i have a brand new one ill throw at ya. Anyway, sounds like they installed the disk wrong causing the pp fingers to push outward and not allow travel of the t.o.b. that and they didnt adjust or bleed the system. That clutch isnt toast and would not have caused a random failure unless the fingers bent or somehow. The hydraulic system is to blame. Check to see if your slave can even be depressed by hand. This is pushing the rod into the cylinder. If not, somethings wrong.

Edit: i noticed the spring is out of the old pp...... What brands are these clutches and part numbers
 
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