upgrading the intercooler

[jerrylarsen]

Is it possible to reduce the amount and still be functional and re do a pull?

Not really to be honest

 

[Mello]

I think your problem is probably going to wastegate related; leaky or bad actuator, binding flapper, etc.. On my setup; to plumb all my WG & BCS vacuum lines, I must have really close to/around 8ft worth, 1/4in diameter without control issues & I DD at approx. 12psi boost.

 

[jerrylarsen]

Yeah that's what I am worried about but I'm hoping to fix it soon

 

[mercaholik]

16 psi on a mhi evo 3 16g on a stock fuel system and no way to tune is getting close to fuel cut. What type of boost gauge are you using? Actuator should open around 10-12 psi so there's a boost creep/spike situation. What size/type of exhaust do you have?

 

[jerrylarsen]

16 psi on a mhi evo 3 16g on a stock fuel system and no way to tune is getting close to fuel cut. What type of boost gauge are you using? Actuator should open around 10-12 psi so there's a boost creep/spike situation. What size/type of exhaust do you have?

What kind if boost gauge as in brand? Is a glowshift the mechanical one, the exhaust came with the car but it looks to be a 2.5"

 

[mercaholik]

Ok good it's not the stock gauge . It's possible that the waste gate is sticking, like mello said you should make a check list. Start with the easy stuff like checking waste gate ref line for pin hole leaks, apply pressure to actuator and watch it. You made need to pull the turbo and port the flapper hole and passage.

 

[jerrylarsen]

i put air to the waste gate actuator and it moved, but not what i think is enough. the bar probably only moves half an inch.. maybe less. im going to pull it and move it by hand and see if i can move it more, also it appears my exhuast is closer to 3 or 3.5 inch. but when my mustang had boost creep it felt different

put my front mount on yesterday afternoon, car seems to run better at idle but still misses under boost, almost feels less powerful too, ill be checking for boost leaks shortly.

 

[MaNGiNa24]

The first link posted by the OP is identical to the VRSF kit. The only difference is VRSF threads the BOV mounting flange so you can just twist on whatever BOV flange you want instead of having it welded on. For $200 shipped vs $370(and from a company that self admits to hating DSM owners) I'd just go with the first link you posted OP. The thing that matters, the intercooler core, is EXACTLY the same as the VRSF 2G kit. It will flow the same, have the same cooling properties, and all that good stuff. Just buy the kit you first listed.

We don't get a chance to post here a lot but I'm not sure where you got that info from but we most certainly do not hate DSM owners. I still own a 2G DSM, I'd be a self hater if that were the case .

Just to clear up some mis-information, our kits start @ $309 shipped to your door and we offer multiple customization options. We've sold this intercooler on this platform for over 9 years now and continue to increase our units sold year over year due to the fact that we offer THE best bang for your buck kit. You can buy a cheap ebay kit, spend an extra 3 hours installing it and another $40-50 on accessories to make it work but we offer the full solution in one box. Pre-drilled brackets, full install hardware, quality couplers/clamps, machined flat mating surfaces, proper length piping and j-pipe/down firing turbo options without having to modify the kit.

The generic ebay kits and our kits are not exactly the same. There's a lot of differences between which we've posted quite a few times but I'll be happy to go over. The generic kits generally have pipes that are too long or too short which require cutting. When you cut off your bead, you run into the risk of having a coupler blow off due to the loss of the bead and you also run the risk of cutting too much off the pipe and needing a replacement. We also machine every flange after they've been welded in order to assure the surface is completely flat whereas the ebay kits do not. Our t-bolt and coupler quality is also very different, there's been plenty of threads over the years showing how the cheap ebay t-bolts snap and couplers blowing holes in them from regular use.

Most importantly the intercooler core is vastly different. Our core's external and internal fin pack was specifically designed for the 2G's restrictive front bumper whereas a lot of these ebay cores will slap on whatever's cheap and easy. We've proven our setup can support up to 750whp without overheating or restricting airflow to the radiators whereas these other companies simply can not.

 

[jerrylarsen]

I bought the eBay one, it worked fine for... Half a week at best, couplers blowing off, had to cut every pipe. Bought the vrsf kit and it bolted mostly right up, had to trim one pipe, but it over all is much nicer, I do need another kit now as I own a second 2g "wink wink"

 

[bmxfelon420]

We don't get a chance to post here a lot but I'm not sure where you got that info from but we most certainly do not hate DSM owners. I still own a 2G DSM, I'd be a self hater if that were the case .

Just to clear up some mis-information, our kits start @ $309 shipped to your door and we offer multiple customization options. We've sold this intercooler on this platform for over 9 years now and continue to increase our units sold year over year due to the fact that we offer THE best bang for your buck kit. You can buy a cheap ebay kit, spend an extra 3 hours installing it and another $40-50 on accessories to make it work but we offer the full solution in one box. Pre-drilled brackets, full install hardware, quality couplers/clamps, machined flat mating surfaces, proper length piping and j-pipe/down firing turbo options without having to modify the kit.

The generic ebay kits and our kits are not exactly the same. There's a lot of differences between which we've posted quite a few times but I'll be happy to go over. The generic kits generally have pipes that are too long or too short which require cutting. When you cut off your bead, you run into the risk of having a coupler blow off due to the loss of the bead and you also run the risk of cutting too much off the pipe and needing a replacement. We also machine every flange after they've been welded in order to assure the surface is completely flat whereas the ebay kits do not. Our t-bolt and coupler quality is also very different, there's been plenty of threads over the years showing how the cheap ebay t-bolts snap and couplers blowing holes in them from regular use.

Most importantly the intercooler core is vastly different. Our core's external and internal fin pack was specifically designed for the 2G's restrictive front bumper whereas a lot of these ebay cores will slap on whatever's cheap and easy. We've proven our setup can support up to 750whp without overheating or restricting airflow to the radiators whereas these other companies simply can not.

You're right, my Ebay pipe kit sucked. The lower didnt seem to fit at all (I think they assume you're using a 14b? idk), and the upper had to be shortened in a couple places to make it. Also the BOV flange was so warped I spent several hours sanding it to get it even remotely flat. Unless you're familiar and comfortable with using ghetto bullshit, dont get an ebay kit for that.

 

[bling5tatus]

If you want your couplers to never blow off again use wd-40 on the pipe when you install it. Sure this will break the rubber down a little bit, but that's how it makes it tacky enough to stick like it's glued to the pipe.

This is also how you install bmx grips. If you're using windex you're doing it wrong.

 

[bmxfelon420]

If you want your couplers to never blow off again use wd-40 on the pipe when you install it. Sure this will break the rubber down a little bit, but that's how it makes it tacky enough to stick like it's glued to the pipe.

This is also how you install bmx grips. If you're using windex you're doing it wrong.

I actually used a silicone adhesive. When it was wet it was like you lubed the grip, get it where you want it, and once it cures it stays pretty solid. All you gotta do to break it lose it take a small screwdriver, run it around between the grip and bar, and it comes off pretty easy. The only pain in the ass there is you gotta clean the residue off of both the inside of the grip and the bar before you put it back on that way.

 

[Agll30]

If you want your couplers to never blow off again use wd-40 on the pipe when you install it. Sure this will break the rubber down a little bit, but that's how it makes it tacky enough to stick like it's glued to the pipe.

This is also how you install bmx grips. If you're using windex you're doing it wrong.

You can also use hairyspray. Holds up really well.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I also use hairspray and have had it hold when I snapped a t-bolt clamp to get me home. I love my VRSF 1G kit. I got in on the group buy for BOV's and Tiago at VRSF shipped me the flange to screw on for the different type of BOV so I can just unscrew my old 1G flange and valve and screw the new one on. Cost - $25.00 shipped to my door. No welding or adapting and I have had wonderful service from them. MTC....Thanks VRSF!

 

[bling5tatus]

Hairspray takes way longer to cure when it's between metal and silicone than wd40 does. When I was a kid we would use it to install grips and we had to wait a while for it to dry. Sure it was solid once it did but it had a long cure time. If you use wd40 you'll be riding your bike in 15 minutes max if that's the only thing you're doing.

I've yet to (need to) use it on my couplers on a car but it's a trick i've been keeping in my pocket for when it's needed since it works so well on bmx grips.

Good to see another bmx rider here on the forum.